Hobicus

Plugs and air filter are actually surprisingly easy, once you realize that you actually don't have to remove the tank to do them. (Zero is mistaken here, you don't need to disconnect the fuel lines) Put the bike on the center stand With the tank almost completely empty, remove the bolt under the seat that holds it in place Lift/loosen the tank. Put a thick towel in the gap between the airbox and the frame. Tip the tank up and set it on the towel From here you have full access to the airbox and plugs. Tip: The spark plug tool in your toolkit is freaking awesome for doing the plugs Tip 2: DO NOT gap the plugs. Iridium plugs come pre-gapped. Gapping them will destroy the coating and after 5000 miles you're be all pissed off because you have to replace the plugs again I have done this countless times and have had NO problems.

I'll take it. Stupid puppy ate mine. Let me know what I can send you for shipping/etc.

Did you ever get this figured out? I think I have a set in the garage at my ex's that I would let you have. Could bring them to racerxx and they could travel back with Joe

Should make it to Kryptkeeper today. I had a bit of a delay getting them out the door.

Well, they are a little too tight for me. PM me your address and I'll send them your way to try on.

I might be interested in them. And I'll be down your way tomorrow, too, I could try them on....

Behind the battery are 4 relays, the far right one is for the pump. It should click when you turn the key on, then click off a couple seconds later. If it's not clicking it could have failed, have a bad connection, or not being signaled--I think the signal comes from the computer. Has it had any running issues or check engine light coming on before? The good news is that the relays are interchangeable , so if you need to swap them you can.

Not sure what happened to the pictures... the forum gallery with the attachments seems to have gone away. But... here's a writeup on doing forks: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=62937

I figured as such. We were talking about it, and someone asked me if I thought the guy who sold it to me knew about it. I said "Naw, he's a dealer. He took it in on trade, the tech looked at it, it ran, that's not something they'd notice. " No worries, still not sure what I'm going to do. I've got a guy who thinks it can be welded, I figure it's worth a shot to see if he can weld it before I look at a motor swap. If it doesn't work, I'm out the cost of the guy's time. The theory is that the stainless pin that the weld won't stick to the stainless pin that holds the starter gear. So if he welds around it, we should still be able to pull the pin and clean up around it with an angle grinder/dremmel. That, plus a new stator cover should hold it. I don't want to fix it such that I know it's going to break over time, even though my plan is to fix it over the winter and sell it in the Spring. Not my style to sell something that I KNOW is fucked up.

So, I've been chasing an oil leak with this thing ever since I got it. Finally put oil dye in it and traced it down to (what I thought) was the starter motor. Replaced the O-ring around the starter motor, and it didn't seem to help Finally decided to disassemble to pull the starter again, remove the stator cover, and see what was going on. Isn't this lovely? It appears that the housing that holds the pin which holds the starter gears has broken. An the part of the stator cover that holds the pin is broken too. So.. someone drilled a hole, put a bolt in from the back, and attempted to hold everything in place with a metal/nylon nut. W T F ???

Jody cracked the screen on her Galaxy S4... If anyone has a spare with which they'd like to part, PM me or reply to this thread.

Finally completely done with the restore. Just got the tank back from paint,

WTF, Troy??? Why are you selling it???

Find time this summer to bring it up this way, we'll find some twisties and catch up. Miss you, brother!

If you have a Batteries Plus (or similar store) near you, just pull the battery and run it up to them. They can test it for you and typically will for free.

Really, really wish I had 4k to spend. Sigh.

Based on this link, and a looking at my VIN (We both have 02XX's), the part you want is: 77250-MAT-A30ZB HDLParts.com has it for $443.91 Ron Ayers has it for 386.84

End of an era, Spoot.

Mine finally needed a little adjustment at 100k miles. Gotta love riding a Honda...

I'd sell the bike. I'll give you $25 for it.

Once in a great while, I wash it. Do you have any actual documentation of this? It's kind of like Big Foot, Sasquatch, or the Yeti... it's been rumored but only witnessed by a few.

Major maintenance? Ummm... I typically do the fork oil every 10,000 miles or once a season, whichever comes first Change the oil every 5k miles, or before a long trip, or after a long trip Tires and Chains as necessary. Check wheel bearings whenever the tires are off, but so far no problems (knock on wood) Replaced the steering head bearings with tapered ones at ~50k Replaced a failed stator and Reg/Rectifier at ~55k. Soldered the wires for the RR at 80k because the connector was melting. Valve check at 50k, needed nothing. Valve check at 100k, needed adjusting Once in a great while, I wash it.

Yes, I did it this weekend. You are correct, it's a metal reinforced seal, but came out pretty easy with a screwdriver pressed along the edge. It did end up all bent to hell, but I was replacing it anyway. Put the new one in by positioning it and pressing it in as far as I could with my fingers, then tapping it in with a 17mm socket.

Ok, so nothing special. Clean it up, and put the new one in, ride another 100,000 miles.

Well, after 107,000 miles, my XX has an oil leak. The oil seal around the clutch push rod appears to be worn out. Has anyone replaced this seal? Is it just pull it out and press the new one in, or is it something that has be pressed in from the inside?