Furbird

I'd have to unbury the dead to get you a picture of mine, but IIRC the upper mounts replace the brackets for the passenger footpegs, and the lower mount is one gigantic T. The T is upside down, the shaft replaces the shock and makes it an adjustable strut to make the rear suspension solid (so the only suspension you have left is the front), and the ends of the T are where the lower mounts of the wheelie bars attach. They line up with the outer edges of the rear subframe of the bike so everything is square. BTW, I was only joking (clearly) earlier, but Jon Haney had to modify his for his setup. Mine are straight up stock. Pingel stuff is excellent so even if you had to fab mounts it would still be the way to go because at least you wouldn't have to build the actual bars, plus you'd be getting quality parts and not jerry-rigging crap out of skateboard parts like we used to do back in the day.

4.0 was bulletproof. Only problem was the radiator, which would break internally and mix the trans fluid and coolant, but that was mostly limited to the Pathfinder/Xterra. I can tell you the entire time I worked there we replaced a grand total of one (1) 4.0 engine and Nissan flew a engineer in to find out why (hadn't even made it to it's first oil change.) They tore the engine down and the robot had lined up all the rings on a single piston so it was consuming oil. The trans issues on the Pathfinder/Xterra were huge though so Nissan extended the warranty on them (I believe) to 100k but the damage had been done by then. Lotsa pink milkshakes came through the shop in my day. CVT issues are early changeover models, people refusing to come in for updated reprograms (that whole "the dealer's only out to rape me" mentality), and refusal to EVER CHANGE THE DAMN FLUID or putting in/topping off/changing with the wrong fluid.

Avalanche is built on a Tahoe platform. It's the Explorer Sport Trac on crack.

Trim the hole out bigger and drywall patch it in square as above (cheap), or buy larger registers and trim the holes properly (expensive and risks air handling issues.) When I bought my house and the home warranty was still active, the AC guys said the entire duct system was going to need to be redone whenever the inside unit failed because the air handler above it did not have any way to control air flow to each branch. They figured it was probably original to the house (1977). That's why the bedrooms are always a different temperature than the living room, which is the furthest distance from the unit. And because of said shitty install methods, you can't control airflow at the vent because it just air conditions the attic; you have to control it at the handler. So basically you just run them all wide open here in the South or you're going to have stained ceilings. They were right, and because they know what the hell they are doing they will get the job when the time comes. Also make sure you have the vents that are straight across, not the ones that divert in three directions. That slows the air down and can cause more likelihood of staining and makes for a more inefficient system.

I'm pretty sure what he's referring to is the "builder's standard" (aka "that shit'll work") method of hand sawing through the drywall and forcing the square duct through by the power of Greyskull (or in most cases more like Harambe) from the roof side then hammering in the vent from the room side by the power of Hulk Smash and hoping nobody ever takes it apart to see how shitty you cut the hole. You guys that don't have this thing defined as "humidity" won't know why we have to remove the vents down here in the South because it exposes shitty installs like this. We have to remove the vents, clean them, then install them correctly and usually stuff plastic bags or insulation around the gaping holes to stop the leaks of roof air into the conditioned space and stop the ceiling from staining. We also see just how bad they missed with their screws since they are supposed to attach the duct to the grille but usually just end up screwing the grille to the drywall and the AC ends up blowing into the attic until we fix it. If that's what you mean, Zero, no, I haven't ever looked into any way to correct this issue other than the same way we've all been doing it forever as you can obviously tell.

Even the Nissan techs I used to work with won't buy a diesel Titan. That said all I needed to hear about that engine. The Ford 7.3 gas engine is NOTORIOUS for cam issues. And that's a brand new engine. I don't know if it's the cam or the lifter sheering off/roller/whatever but something is failing internally and it's happening under warranty regardless as to how well you maintain it. Guess all those Ford fanboys talking shit about GM's AFM lifter failure is biting them in the ass 🤣

Turbos are going to fail (turbo boost was on Knight Rider, BTW). Even the mighty 7.3 Powerstroke had turbo failure. So you are correct, it is one more thing to go bad. But it is for the purpose of getting more power out of a smaller package. As with anything, good oil and keeping it filtered and monitored/changed. Since most people don't do testing then the answer falls to changed. And since most people didn't like buying 3-4 gallons of oil for Powerstrokes... bye-bye turbo. Turbos run HOT. That cooks the oil. You've GOT to stay on top of the oil changes on those engines. That little POS 1.3 or whatever is in the Cruze. #1 failure... turbo. What do people who buy that car do? Never change the oil. Change the oil, turbo survives. Seen them with well over 100k with factory turbos. Service history that looks like a CVS receipt. It makes a difference. See also; transmission fluid - automatic/CVT.

I've done HID swap without removing the fairing, so yes, you can do it. HIGHLY recommend you go ahead and switch to a QUALITY LED setup. Buy once, cry once. And in this case, cut your arm up once 😁

The only company that I know of that made a bolt-on kit was Pingel, and I don't see it on their site anymore. Maybe if you call them they still have one or can assemble one for you? Good luck finding one because the only person that ever bought a set from Pingel was apparently... me! 😁

My Caprice... the solenoid is bad but you have to pull the starter to rebuild the solenoid, and the parts are on intergalactic backorder, so I replaced the entire starter assembly. Had to pull the passenger catalytic converter to get the starter off. Good thing I live in the South. Still took 3.5 hours.

Joe, you have to pull the plugs anyway to change them, might as well do a compression test and leakdown test while you're staring at the open hole. We're just trying to help you not do a job 15 times and cost 27 times as much. Buy once, cry once.

From the video poster "A year later and this truck is still hauling loads back and forth from Houston Texas to Oklahoma City multiple times a week."

Brother, they never took the head off. That is the original valve and piston. All they did was diag and spring swap. They lifted the valve to close it manually to seat it for the leakdown test. You're talking like the valve was bent. They left all that in there, put a spring in it, and literally shipped this bitch. Redneck mechanic 101 shit. This is exactly what Joe is looking for to get out of this the cheapest way possible if it needs hard parts. I'm not saying this is how it SHOULD be fixed, I'm saying this is what THEY did. Anyway, the first one was a compression test, which is done (supposed to be, anyway) on a hot engine with peak compression to test for balance between all cylinders. A drastic variance tells you something has ventilated. A leakdown test is where you leave the cylinder pressurized for an amount of time to determine if the cylinder is leaking compression. You notice they did the leakdown by pulling up on the lifter to seat the valve. Because if they didn't, it would have failed like a mofo. In that video, with that amount of piston damage, that engine will probably survive just fine for what they are using it for. In a race car, that thing would scatter on the next pass and take half the engine bay with it (and probably put the car in the wall.) In other words, Bubba using it for daily driving will get another 100k out of it. But Cleetus McFarland ain't leaving that piston in Mullet and making another 6 second pass in a 3000 hp twin turbo engine.

No spring, valve doesn't seat. Valve doesn't seat, no compression. Video of the exact engine in question with a spring failure and the compression test diagnosed it. https://youtu.be/jlcyzc8-o4Y?t=706

I'd use something much stronger than Seafoam, like BG 44k. I still think it's a valve spring or a seat after reading the forum posts about people having issues describing exactly what you're talking about and throwing the parts cannon at it with zero improvements. I know it's not what you want to hear but until you get compression/leakdown testing done to make sure it's not mechanical failure, I'm afraid you might be throwing good money after bad.

I tried to help him buy a 1500HD or a Denali (whatever it was with 4WS) but they kept getting sold before I could even get freed up to get out to look at one for him. What he NEEDS is an LBZ and just suck it up buttercup or my 4WD manual transfer case rubber floor truck in an 8.1 but they are ASTRONOMICAL now. You can't buy a southern one anymore because we delete *.* and they've got that whole annual inspection bullshit up there. Or, you know, FUCKING MOVE 😁 Anyway, back on topic, regardless as to how buried they are, you've got to do plugs at some point. I had to put plugs in my 96 Firebird and I had to jack the engine over to get those mofo's out. Spark plug wires require pulling the alternator off entirely and half the front of the engine loose. Some of the plugs you pull from the top, some from the bottom, and some from the wheel well. And a fat kid can't do it. I weigh 40 pounds less than the last time I tried it so if I ever do it again it should be a lot easier 🤣

I'm seeing several posts on there and YouTube videos that relate your issue (even after replacing all coil packs, wires, and plugs) to a broken valve spring. I'd start by checking compression like Iceprick said as that would eliminate you breaking out the parts cannon on something that's not going to solve the actual problem.

Umm... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1659335-2015-f250-6-2-persistant-misfire-2.html Needs a motor?

Thread resurrection. I remember the one and only Ranger I had. It had an ARE shell with gullwing aluminum toolboxes on either side. That's when I was doing on-site cell phone installs (back when they still sold 3 watt, permanent mount phones.) That fucker was always dragging ass. I ended up putting shackles on the rear axle to lift it back up to stock height. When I sold it (and kept all that phone stuff, which I sold on ebay for a small fortune for the people who refused to upgrade), that truck rode higher than a 1977 Trans Am with glass packs, Centerline Convo Pros, and a footprint gas pedal.

Oscar is right about the residency thing. Especially when that state is Vermont where the bike with no title is registered. No title, and your state requires it, I would stay FAR away. https://cartitles.com/how-to-use-the-vermont-title-loophole-to-get-a-vehicle-title/

My pressure spikes MASSIVELY at the doctor's office. Always has. Byproduct of a childhood doctor known as "Shoot'em up" where no matter what you were getting a shot, and you know as a kid you did NOT want to get a shot. I could care less now in my conscious mind but my subconscious mind tells my body to go into flight mode. 131/75 at home, last time it was 30 points higher on the top AND bottom at the doctor.

So... buy new clips or foam?

When in doubt, google it. I was pretty sure it was "it should have come with clips or foam" and I was right. But it depends on your counter and what type of cooktop. https://www.hunker.com/12483594/how-to-caulk-around-a-cooktop

If you google "fastbag cbr1100xx" it is, in fact, the first result. We're doomed.

Well... https://www.motortrend.com/news/hyundai-palisade-kia-telluride-sorento-sportage-nhtsa-fire-recall/ https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/consumer-alert-important-hyundai-and-kia-recalls-fire-risk Totally unrelated addition 6 days later 😁 ...