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Furbird

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Everything posted by Furbird

  1. There was a YouTube video filmed on a potato and I think I broke the microphone. Well, guess what. Found it. The Furbird. ARMDROP LIVE! Y'all thought I was bullshittin'!
  2. Sidewinder is way, WAY worse than "stock header, no cans" because instead of 4 into 2 tiny ports it's 4 into 1 then takes that sound and amplifies it into a GIGANTIC megaphone tip. The D&D version is the exact same thing, the only difference is they put a small tapered-in section at the end as some sort of veiled attempt at "sound deadening" and "increasing back pressure for torque improvement" which is the most LOL shit I've ever seen (I know because Furbird V2 has this system.) I had a KZ1000 with a Sidewinder and Furbird with the D&D and multiple people came up to me and said Furbird was louder than my KZ. Even D&D was known as the loudest street exhaust on sportbikes back in the day, so obviously that's what I have on Furbird V1. My 4-1 was by far louder than anything else with 4-1 or with stock headers and slip-ons with a full-length can. These days though it's like these guys are intentionally going the obnoxious route, with the shortest can possible, exiting by their feet, and sounding like a 92 Civic with a 7 inch tip and a 5 foot tall trunk wing held on with duct tape and blowing more smoke than a squatted truck rolling coal and dragging chrome fake nuts on the trailer hitch.
  3. Vance and Hines Sidewinder, #1 loudest (think high school cheerleader screaming at Taylor Swift through a megaphone on crack.) D&D (whatever that racing exhaust is I have that has zero baffles), #2 loudest (see above, minus the crack.) Everybody else is a DISTANT third and not even in the same zip code.
  4. Definitely don't "wash" it out because then the bearings are without lubricant. There is no pump, only the gears themselves slinging oil, so removing that film removes the protection. 80w90 is what everybody uses now. I'm in the south and tow a lot so I use 75w140 in all my stuff. Full synthetic.
  5. That broker BS gets on my nerves. Some guy who doesn't want to deal with ebay and 1000 questions pays somebody to list it then just collects the check to dump his barn car and gets what he gets. The broker gets the exorbitant fees. So you think you're buying a car in Nevada and it turns out it's in Montana. Or Illinois.
  6. First run of the Titan broke before the first oil change. They forgot to put loctite on the carrier bolts. We had one they had to bring into the shop in 4WD. The 2WD's were brought in with a chain. NEVER BUY A FIRST YEAR MODEL VEHICLE! I'm not blasting Nissan, I just worked there and saw all this stuff. Every dealer has the same issues with every car they make, you just don't hear about it as much. Those guys still call me and say stuff like "you thought the CVT was bad, you ought to see this bullshit..." Just buy the limited slip friction modifiers regardless if you have one or not. If you do, good. If you don't, not going to hurt anything. Or just run Royal Purple. Or Redline. Or whatever already has it in there.
  7. Nissan CVT's have "lifetime oil" and we see how well that bullshit worked out.
  8. 98-12 is allegedly the same. This isn't that difficult. Same job as my Firebird and I've done it lots of times. Hell, I've completely rebuilt one twice, and that's WAY more work setting backlash and all that BS. And, yes, that is WAY too long to have not done this yet. Especially with you pulling 15k fifth wheels 🤣
  9. "This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available."
  10. The Mustang sold, the Super Bee listing got pulled.
  11. Super Bee would be a killer build... but that is most DEFINITELY not the "original VIN" as they are claiming. That plate is not original, but does display the numbers that are stamped and the fender tag.
  12. Still. Only use my same ol' laptop with Firefox. The cookies thing that triggered the "WTFingF" thing is gone, but probably because I keep getting logged out. I'm telling you, it's the robot aliens, or Skynet has become self-aware!
  13. I think it's comical the way they use half a tube on a fifth wheel plate every time they unhook. They just pile it on top of what's already there, which looks like the inside of a Quaker State motor with a Fram oil filter; the beaches of the Gulf Coast after the BP oil spill. I put a glove on and put a film of grease on the inside of the hitch socket. I also lock my hitches to the ball when I'm towing so they can't unlatch.
  14. I use the same old high temp pink-ish wheel bearing grease I run in my hubs, ball joints, tie rod ends, and everything. I keep a tub around in the shop and a tube in the grease gun. Learned that from the long haul truckers that lube the every loving shit out of their fifth wheels with that stuff. I lube the inside of the hitch itself on my trailers, not the actual ball. Learned that from YO MOMMA 🤣
  15. Real saws weigh real weight. My Grizzly I took off the trailer with the car lift and it's the "small" one. They put it on the trailer with a forklift. I don't know what Carlos is getting but that's "conveys with the house" weight. Like my safe. I moved it once; that bitch ain't moving again.
  16. It's a good thing that (so far) the only people that have replied here are aware of your sarcasm, due to your lack of emoji that some of us are required to use lest ours be missed by it's subtlety.
  17. I really don't understand why you would need an 8" rise on anything. Much less anything Carlos would own. Hell, my Ram Air Formula has a straight draw bar on it for my utility trailer. Unless we're talking about one of those camper trailers with a lift kit and 44" super swampers you need to move with the Tesla for a meme 🤣
  18. I use a guide and typically the table saw with the blade retracted as one of my sawhorses and those Stanley foldable sawhorses for other locations. In other words, there are multiple points of contact so I'm not tempted to try to hold anything up. I haven't had to handle a full sheet in a while though. I also have roller stands so even if I had to deal with a full sheet it could still run through the table saw as a one-man job. All that being said, I'm also not trying to do a single, perfect cut either. I'll cut down a 4X8 to something manageable, THEN run that piece through for the final cut on the table saw to get it to the correct size. I know some people try to do tracksaw work with a circular saw and an edge guide and more power to you if you're that good but I ain't that guy. Used to try that in my younger days building speaker boxes and that's why I kept a belt sander with a lot of belts. Kinda like the old saying "I've seen your welds, that's why you're getting a grinder for Christmas."
  19. On the rare occasions when I actually use one (because I use the table saw so much now), behind my back, typically grabbing a belt loop. Same way I do electrical work.
  20. "Regs" LOL. I keep mine beneath my gas water heater next to the pilot light.
  21. Little ammonium nitrate and that could be West Coast Waco.
  22. I'd have to unbury the dead to get you a picture of mine, but IIRC the upper mounts replace the brackets for the passenger footpegs, and the lower mount is one gigantic T. The T is upside down, the shaft replaces the shock and makes it an adjustable strut to make the rear suspension solid (so the only suspension you have left is the front), and the ends of the T are where the lower mounts of the wheelie bars attach. They line up with the outer edges of the rear subframe of the bike so everything is square. BTW, I was only joking (clearly) earlier, but Jon Haney had to modify his for his setup. Mine are straight up stock. Pingel stuff is excellent so even if you had to fab mounts it would still be the way to go because at least you wouldn't have to build the actual bars, plus you'd be getting quality parts and not jerry-rigging crap out of skateboard parts like we used to do back in the day.
  23. 4.0 was bulletproof. Only problem was the radiator, which would break internally and mix the trans fluid and coolant, but that was mostly limited to the Pathfinder/Xterra. I can tell you the entire time I worked there we replaced a grand total of one (1) 4.0 engine and Nissan flew a engineer in to find out why (hadn't even made it to it's first oil change.) They tore the engine down and the robot had lined up all the rings on a single piston so it was consuming oil. The trans issues on the Pathfinder/Xterra were huge though so Nissan extended the warranty on them (I believe) to 100k but the damage had been done by then. Lotsa pink milkshakes came through the shop in my day. CVT issues are early changeover models, people refusing to come in for updated reprograms (that whole "the dealer's only out to rape me" mentality), and refusal to EVER CHANGE THE DAMN FLUID or putting in/topping off/changing with the wrong fluid.
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