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Furbird

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Posts posted by Furbird

  1. Same BS they make every windshield out of.

    I do have to say, though, that factory Ford windshield took a beating in my 15 and never cracked (and still hasn't - it's still in our fleet).  The factory 19 was significantly weaker.  The aftermarket replacement is even weaker than the factory one.  But mine all seem to last WAY longer than everybody else's.  When asked why I've only needed 1 windshield in 10 years on the road my answer is always the same;  "Jesus and window tint." 😇

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  2. I have to say my 2135TI (I'm pretty sure that's the number) IR 1/2" drive impact has been pretty bulletproof.  That being said that Ryobi 18v cordless I got last year puts out just as much power.  But, like you, I have that big 60 gallon compressor and I won't be getting rid of my shop air.  I do woodworking, metal working, and auto work all in my shop and have way too many tools that are corded, cordless, and air.  The air nailers, framing nailers, pin nailers, air hammer, and body work tools are either exorbitantly expensive in other options, impractical, or just simply unavailable in electric.  Then again, had a friend of mine a couple weeks back that had a couple of lug nuts that had self welded and it took my 210 pound ass with a 6 foot cheater pipe and a breaker bar to get them to break free so NO AMOUNT of air or electric power I had available could handle those.  Sometimes you gotta use the right tool; whether air, electric, or butt-cheek 😁

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  3. As I stated in another thread, I did all my pulls before laying the conduit in the ground.  Hell of a lot easier rolling that big monster out straight and sliding all that shit on than trying to pull that monster cable through the assembly. 

  4. I put mine in conduit, not because I ever expected anybody to be out there with a trencher, but you never know when somebody might be out there with a posthole digger after me.  And unless you're fucking Hulk Hogan you're not busting through conduit and the wire in the ground with a posthole digger.

    I'll also say this.  The direct burial cable I took out of the ground that was run to the previous well house from 1977 was cracked in multiple places, but back then the entire inside was coated in what looked like white lithium grease so even if it did crack the wire was protected.  I could have easily cut through some of that old brittle sheathing with a shovel. 

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  5. Definitely a Christmas miracle... I'm about to 100% agree with Tomek (only visible because Zero quoted him).

    Swampnut RAILS Zero for quoting YouTube (as do others) not to mention the length of said YouTube videos, then posts a 15 minute YouTube video that only defends HIS VIEWPOINTS, then attacks when somebody calls HIM out on it.  This is literally "pot calling the kettle", aka "let he who hath no sin" behavior.

    Classic.

    At this rate I may unblock Tomek and block Swampnut before the year runs out because I think this is at least 3 times this year I've actually agreed with Tomek on something.  It's almost like he's changing.  He's pulling a Dave on me.

  6. But people actually buy their overhead cranes, so there's that...

    I think about half of the hardware either stripped or broke on my sandblast cabinet when I assembled it.  Good thing I was using the Youtube video where you eliminate several components and assemble it a different way so it's far more usable and actually hinge the entire top instead of that stupid side door bullshit the way they make it.  I had plenty of spares since the manual became optional as well.

  7. Grainger is a good way to get your head knocked off on pricing.

    We have a fastener place that's local that gives killer pricing, but they have a minimum buy.  I've seen people go in there to buy one bolt for their lawnmower and end up buying 150 because they have to hit $10 minimum.  But they go there because they don't sell the bullshit at Lowe's and HD that breaks in 3 seconds.  Their parking lot looks like the drive-thru at Chik-Fil-A quite often.

    I was in there a few years ago because I needed bolts for my transmission jack.  Old man and his son were sitting next to me and they needed new bolts for something and it was literally like $1.30.  I just said "put it on mine" because that was the situation they were in, about to have to buy like 80 bolts when they only needed 10.  I'm sitting over there like "give me the shit they bolt the bridges over Interstate 10 together with" and it was still only $14.  I guarantee you there's some place in your town like this, you just gotta find it.  And it ain't Grainger.

  8. The gender thing is throwing me for a loop.  It almost makes me think you're going to say they initiate all braking sessions using the rear brake first, or exclusively use the rear brake, or something that is rear brake-specific like that.  Or perhaps because they are short they keep their right foot on the rear brake most of the time and use their left foot to keep the bike upright, as the average female is shorter than the average male.

    Then again, the fact you mentioned the electric bike and regenerative braking makes me think this may be an electrical malfunction that is causing this, almost like an ABS issue that causes such a rapid pulse that somehow whatever pressure the rider is causing is magnified; creating the drag effect we are seeing indicated on the (assuming) inside pad (or whichever pad is the piston-driven one).

    But, hell, this is 2023, the bike may identify as a military Humvee for all we know.

  9. The problem is if it has "firm" suspension or "normal" suspension.  If it's firm, good luck.  There's like one in the US.  Almost all of them have normal.  Guess the only way to know is the dealer, which means unless it's some super rare package it's going to have normal.  Something that old it's going to be no longer available from the dealer, most likely nobody aftermarket is going to have it, and most shops aren't going to chase one down from a junk yard or it's not going to be cost effective.  It's also not cost effective to fix this, because for $40 you might as well just go buy a used one.  That place in New Mexico (Hollander parts link) will sell you one for 45 and ship it for 40 and even that isn't worth fixing the broken one nor driving any significant distance chasing one down.

  10. Well, I suggest you start hunting.  Bought mine off a guy about my age who said "call me".  I met him first thing in the morning.  He plugged it in to his boat right next to the new one he replaced it with to prove it worked.  There are still real people on there with real products, pretty easy to spot when they hand out numbers and can answer simple questions and you don't ask stupid ones.  Also helps when you've done your research (which is why I was mentioning all the stuff I said, because a scammer won't know any of that stuff but a REAL seller who REALLY used it will or will go check.)

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  11. So I bought a MinnKota Riptide 74lb 24v 48" shaft saltwater (because I wanted white), hand steer, bow mount, latch & door (the mount that you are calling "scissor") for $200 on Marketplace when I bought my boat a couple years ago because I didn't want to pay this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Minn-Kota-Saltwater-Bow-Mount-Trolling/dp/B001M5TTF4/ref=sr_1_5?c=ts&keywords=Trolling+Boat+Motors&qid=1699483276&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7046332011&s=boating-water-sports&sr=1-5&ts_id=3397951

  12. Need to specify saltwater or freshwater (white or black) and also what length shaft you need that way you can really cover all the racist and sexual stereotypes that Carlos forgot to include.

    Jokes aside, saltwater/freshwater and shaft length are actual things you need to specify because if you put a freshwater short shaft trolling motor on a center console white fiberglass boat not only is it going to look stupid it may not touch the water.  You also don't need an 96" shaft saltwater trolling motor on a 14' black Triton cause that mofo will run deeper than the 300 Merc you got hanging off the back with a 200 shot of nitrous to beat everybody to the fishing hole.

  13. 9 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    The guilty employee's number was on the work order so it would appear that everyone there is 'approved', tho I guess it's possible that warrantee approval is different than recall approval.  He was fairly new and apparently wasn't doing well before this incident, and has supposedly been fired because of it.  Pretty sure he was canned over the lie, I think he was gone before they found out about the fuckup that left me stranded.


    I don't know how Ford is set up, but Nissan has levels.  For instance, you have to be certified to be able to do a PDI (pre-delivery inspection) so if you haven't been factory trained on it, you can't be flagged under your employee number as the tech who did the work, which is what I meant by that.  That doesn't mean you weren't the one who actually did it, or got paid for it, just it can't be on the actual repair order submitted to Nissan or they won't pay the ticket.  Same thing with a warranty ticket, recall, etc.  So if you haven't had the classes for whatever it is, you can't flag that.  I'm sure other manufacturers work the same way.  What they would do is flag two techs and do a split ticket, one who was certified and one who wasn't, that way there was no issues.  I mean it was so ridiculous you couldn't even warranty out a fucking battery if you hadn't taken the class.  Granted this was a decade ago so I hope it's not like that now, but then again...

    That's why every shop has to have a Master Tech.  We had two.  But even that isn't enough, because even Masters may not be manufacturer approved for everything.  Like we only had one who was GTR, Leaf, and hybrid certified.  So, again, all tickets had to be flagged to him.  And you have to have a Master on staff certified in all that, plus a salesman certified in all that, and all the specific equipment, or you can't even sell the damn car!  That's why we didn't have the commercial trucks, because we didn't have all that.  Now that part I know is still valid because I still talk to the one who didn't go get the GTR certs and he still won't because he doesn't want to deal with those PITAs.

  14. Similar situation happened on the state vehicle when I reviewed the camera footage.  They claimed they did the seat recall on the passenger seat but they never even touched it.  All they did was claim it on the paperwork.  I literally have it on tape.  They had to fix the roof racks though because they were falling off (known issue).

    One of my guys still in the industry says the problem is most "techs" aren't approved to do warranty work, so they just have a bunch of monkeys doing the easy shit that don't actually know what they are doing while the only tech who is trained gets flagged for the hours (on paper) and may not ever actually see or touch the vehicle.  This leaves all the actual hard shit up to the trained tech to deal with, which means when they are working they are WORKING while everybody else is riding the gravy train.  One dealer near here got caught flagging a master tech's employee number who had quit over a year prior because they didn't have anybody warranty approved and were fined nearly a half million dollars.  So to hear you had a "ain't my car, ship-it" is no shocker.

  15. I just had a newer Toyota 4Runner lock on me with the door open and the key was sitting on the seat today.  But keep on arguing about how I don't know what I'm talking about, Carlos.

  16. 4 hours ago, SwampNut said:

    Passive locking is a must-have in any vehicle I'd consider buying.  It's 2023.


    Scenario... mother exits vehicle.  Walks around car to get child from passenger rear.  Vehicle passively locks.  Keys, phone, and kid are inside car.  In Southeast or Arizona summertime.  Safety glass (it's 2023...)

    Satan giggles at your ignorance.

    Passive locks are, in fact, the devil.

  17. The most aggravating thing about newer vehicles that I run across are passive locks.  If you don't know, that means cars that lock by themselves.  And some of these things will do it with the key still in them, even the (lol) "intelligent" key ones, especially if the battery gets weak.  They really didn't think that through.  And then there's my sister-in-law who drove 300 miles leaving her intelligent key on the kitchen counter after starting her SUV, then my brother had to drive up there to bring her the key so she could get back.  She'll never live that one down.  You'd think they'd put the vehicle in limp mode with a big ass "key not present, operations limited, check your pockets idiot" warning after a few hundred feet or so.

    • Upvote 2
  18. It probably has a painted plastic cover on the driver door handle that you have to pop off to reveal the key hole if you don't see it.  They've been doing that for several years.  Of course, that means it will either break upon removal, you'll scratch it with your knife/screwdriver/method of prying it off the car, it goes flying and scratches it up when it hits the ground, or it will fall in the drain in the Walmart parking lot.

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