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Furbird

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Furbird last won the day on April 14

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About Furbird

  • Birthday 04/07/1975

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    Semmes, AL

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  1. Good grief, I can't believe somebody hasn't jumped on this yet. Too far for me and already 3 birds deep.
  2. 1/8th mile/slick/wheelie bars/auto shifter.
  3. I was running 10.5 on a bone stock bird when I weighed 242 lbs. Furbird was never set up for 1/4 so it would probably have blown up before it got to the big end (12/49 gearing.) I have an old PC2 but never hooked it up, even with the K&N and a full D&D system. Bike always ran fine for me.
  4. Use the straight filter in the useful threads page (I had Oreilly's match it up) and curve your own hose. Or cut off your curved metal part and attach two straight hoses to either end. No sense in spending all that money on a fuel filter.
  5. We don't do annual inspections here in Alabama, but since I do rebuilt inspections, I can speak on that decal. Those decals must be affixed to a permanent structure of the vehicle in close proximity to the Federal Inspection Sticker. The reason why is so that it cannot be moved to another vehicle. Your state may have similar wording in regards to annual labels which is why they attach it the way they do.
  6. You talking about this one? Salvage title... https://wausau.craigslist.org/cto/d/wausau-2004-denali-truck/6787629324.html
  7. Damn, I must be psychic as I said 4WS axles cost that much earlier. You could buy an entire quadrasteer totaled truck for that amount and have all the spare parts you could ever need. I suggest you check car-part. I see some with 3.73 for less than $1000. www.car-part.com
  8. 3500 bucks will buy you an 4WS rearend out of a GM. WTF is this thing made out of, unobtanium? Hand forged by Chuck Norris?
  9. I have the tools and have done my own, but you couldn't pay me enough to do one for somebody else. There's only two people anywhere near my area that do it, one is a shop in Mobile (that also does those driveshaft disconnects for flat towing behind an RV that I didn't know ANYBODY did anymore) and the king of diff work over in Pensacola. Last time I checked he stayed wide open because like Carlos said it's voodoo magic going on in there. No matter what, invest in a solid pinion spacer, and do NOT put a crush sleeve in there. With a solid pinion spacer, when (not if) the pinion seal goes bad and starts leaking diff fluid, you can take it off with an impact and install a new one. Try that with a crush sleeve and you'll change the preload on the bearing which will cause premature differential failure.
  10. I guess it depends on how the system is designed. I have been told that on a GM engine, if you plug the oil cooler lines (which are NOTORIOUS for leaking,) bye-bye engine. You can loop the two lines together, or remove the entire adapter and put the non-oil cooler plate on it (which is what I did) but plugging the lines equals destruction. Who knows.
  11. Logic would say certain destruction. Oil would build against the restriction until something failed.
  12. (calculates how many Reese's cups I'll have to cut back on for the next year to cover the purchase price...) 🤣
  13. My old parts manager drove all the way to Texas to get one and he let me drive it once. Easiest extended cab pickup to park I've ever been in. It was like driving something half it's length. He bought it because he used to tow a lot and he and the entire planet will tell you that once you back up a trailer with one you're ruined for life. You can still get the parts for the rearend steering, but some of it can be pricey. I have not heard of a lot of failures with it, and my old boss still has his and has had zero failures with the rear steering. They also made a Suburban with this option, and that is supposedly extremely hard to find.
  14. My initial thought is fluid level also, BUT, those trucks are NOTORIOUS for having transmission issues, so YMMV.
  15. Furbird

    Tire wear

    That second picture is much clearer than the first. That is well outside of an alignment issue being the cause. That thing would crabwalk like crazy to have that much wear that far over from center. I know around here we have several roads with pretty intense crowning because of the amount of rainfall we get. Also, if you ride where you have heavy traffic, especially truck traffic, it will create literal ruts in the road from people driving in the same position in the lane over and over. High heat also increases this effect. We have all of that here. My Firebird with the 315 rear tire width tracks like crazy on some of the roads because of the way the heavy trucks have compacted the asphalt. Another thing to think of is left side lean time. Hot pavement can do a number on tires, and every time you park your bike it's on the side stand. Over and over, always left side. That's going to overheat and potentially flat spot that part of the tire, however microscopic it may be, and over the course of the life of a tire that flat spot may end up being all over the entire circumference of the tire on that one side. I never trust the marks on the rear adjuster. I always measure it. Interestingly enough, I had a friend of mine that said every time he did a wheelie his bike went left while in the air. I told him to check his rear wheel alignment and not trust the adjuster marks. It was off. No more left turn wheelies. So go do a wheelie. If it pulls to one side, your adjustment is off. Or just use a tape measure. Less felonies.
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