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Furbird last won the day on January 4

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About Furbird

  • Birthday 04/07/1975

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    Semmes, AL

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  1. I went with the $20 Wyze cameras. They have SD card memory (not required) and save things on the cloud. Events in your motion detection range will save for 2 weeks I think, plenty long enough for you to know if something happened. I go through them daily and have them set up very sensitive so it picks up birds, rain drops, even wasps that fly by. I put one in the laundry room window that covers the front yard and driveway entrance and one in the back yard on the gate side that covers the shop and vehicles. No monthly fee, I just use the free service with the app. They pick up audio or motion but I have the audio off since they are in the house. Supposedly you can buy housings to mount them outside but I just don't know that I trust that with the amount of rainfall and humidity we have down here. I caught Tinkerbell/ghost/flying spaghetti monster/creature from the black lagoon/insert whatever you think it is here. This was early AM so the reality is the sun rising through the double panes of glass caused it and also kinda washes out the image some. Hope it loads... 20200528_10_32_58.mp4
  2. You should take it to the dragstrip. I'd come in from a pass and have two vortex-style fans wide open pointed at the radiator. That sucker was thermonuclear without the forced air assistance. Birds run hot.
  3. That's one hell of a naked lady collection...
  4. A 240gb SSD is "small" to you? Good grief, my laptop and all my music/videos wouldn't even fill that up.
  5. I used a push through the fins thermostat for years on my Astro when I converted it to electric fans, never gave me any problems at all. And that thing ran for hours when we used it at a party as the stereo system (it had 8-15's.)
  6. Yes, you should be hearing some "creak" or a clamping force of the pads against the rotors. As the rotors turn, they "bump" the pads out so they're not constantly under friction against the rotor. So the pad moving back and forth on the slide pins or slots will cause a tiny bit of noise. If you're not hearing that from the rear, and the fluid has never been changed, then it's quite possible that the rear brakes boiled the fluid the first time it was braked on with sufficient force. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will pull in moisture from the atmosphere. Moisture in brake fluid means boiling, and the more there is, the worse it is. 20 year old brake fluid with very little use means the water hasn't had many chances to boil off so you've got to start with a flush first. Make life easy and get a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight. Center stand, open handlebar and rear master cylinders, start at one bleeder cracked open and start vacuuming out fluid, one by one, until you're pretty sure all the old stuff is gone. You still have to finish up with a pressure bleed as the last step, where you have to pump it up with the levers and bleed off the excess, but at least you're not doing that to get all the fluid out also. If you're not comfortable with this, take it to a shop and have them do it. Have them do the clutch fluid too because the same thing applies to it. Nearly impossible to boil that fluid but the water can still cause issues on that system.
  7. My fluids have only been replaced once in 21 years, maybe. Bike has over 50k and probably a thousand passes at the dragstrip. And this was an 1/8th mile with a short shutdown, so you had to use a lot of brake. 8k miles on a 20 years old bike is scary to me, that's why I always say mileage should not be anywhere near the top of a list of requirements for purchase, no matter what it is, and especially not a bird. But don't be like me, change the fluid FIRST and do a full bleed to make sure it's not the easiest fix of all. The easiest thing to check of hard parts is the caliper. Center stand, put in first gear, get the rear wheel speed up to maybe 20-30mph, clutch in and hit rear brake. Rear wheel should stop almost immediately. If not, pull the caliper and make sure the pads are easily removable. Could be the pad is just stuck on the pin(s) or is corroded and causing excess friction. It's pad on one side and slot on the other. Hell you might get lucky and it just have a rock stuck between the pad plates! Next, collapse the pistons on the rear caliper. I have always used the old pads to do this but whatever you have that will fit in there and allow you to close them. If it moves smoothly then the caliper is probably fine. If you feel things grinding, I would suspect it's got water intrusion and has surface rust on the piston on the inside. Never taken a bird caliper apart but have seen this happen before on other bikes. Normally you would have a leak as it tears seals but it depends on how the caliper is assembled. The rear reservoir cap needs to be off to allow the fluid to easily flow back into the master cylinder during this step, in case you aren't aware. If all that is good, I would replace the rear master cylinder. It's $100 from Ron Ayers and while they do sell rebuild kits for that, I would just buy the entire assembly if it gets to that point. I'm referring to the actual piston part, not everything. Hell, Joe probably has 15 laying around he'll sell you.
  8. I'm leaning towards stuck rear caliper or a rear master cylinder issue. Highly unlikely it's anything on the front side of braking with your description.
  9. Furbird

    New 97xx

    Don't know how long you've been riding but don't trust the notches on the chain adjustment when you go to tighten it (which you will have to do going -1 up front.) My street bird is dead on but my dragbike wasn't even in the same damn ballpark. My Victory is much MUCH worse though.
  10. Furbird

    New 97xx

    Fronts are available from 12-18 in steel, but most rears are limited in size unless you go aluminum. Aluminum will wear faster. All that to say another vote for -1 up front and ride on.
  11. Furbird

    New 97xx

    Check your grounds for corrosion or just run a new ground to the headlights to eliminate that as a potential issue. Since you've replaced the low/high switch (hopefully with a new one and not a used one that could have potential issues of it's own), the only other possible thing could be a bad connection at the fuse terminal but I'm not sure if the 97 has a dedicated fuse for the low beam alone. Maybe instead of just checking the seating you should detach the connectors and see if you have corrosion inside the connector itself. I had that on my 99 but the source on those is a terminal that is used for diagnostics on the FI bikes which yours doesn't have. If you have that, it should be just that connector and not full lengths of wiring that need replacement unless the bike suffered serious neglect. There's not a whole lot of us that have had to go internal on these engines as they are pretty much bulletproof, so internal modification help will be few and far between. It's a snowball effect as cams mean timing changes, jetting the carbs, might as well do exhaust, go ahead and turbo, well this deep let's put a strut/slick/wheelie bars/nitrous and now you're at Kent Stotz. 🤣
  12. Everything you mentioned screams alternator or battery. Instead of trying to find ground straps that are OE just add new ones with 10 gauge or 8 gauge. Battery to block, battery to body, body to block. But the gauges going batshit while the car is operating is tell-tale alternator failure. Suck it up and buy the Nissan one. I know of no aftermarket LOCAL source that makes an alternator worth a crap unless you can find someone to rebuild the OE one for you. We replaced multiple aftermarket ones with OE ones and all the problems went away. You kill that motor you've done something. Change the oil, it will run forever. The Maxima/Altima version of that engine had some cam chain tensioner issues but never recall the Pathfinder/QX series having it when equipped with the 3.5 (4.0 completely different story.) Do NOT put a Fram filter on it. Any filter without an anti-drain back valve WILL cause valve rattle on startup. I prefer Purolator myself (BTW, the Nissan one is a Purolator) but WIX or other quality filters are fine. Check the in cabin/AC filter. Should have one, probably has never been changed if the previous owner didn't RTFM. Might be pricey OE as somewhere in those years they had a charcoal filter which is vastly superior but astronomical compared to the straight paper style. It might need U-joints, but more than likely it's rear control arms. The bushings go bad on those and cause a knock that a lot of people believe to be U-joints, but it usually coincides with an unstable rear end/slight sway.
  13. Interesting how the video and the image you attached shows two completely different lengths of the wrench head distance from the tool. You would think that how far the tool is mounted down the length of the wrench would affect torque, right? Or does the 90 degree thing have something to do with it? That's the only part I don't follow.
  14. Special Easter Sunday Hours In order to give our associates personal time on Easter Sunday, our stores will be open from Noon to 5 pm. From the email I got from HF Friday. They were open.
  15. Bought the newer 5000 today. Found the 25% off coupon code online and ordered it through their site. With shipping it came out to $2.00 more than going to the store and getting it, but Mobile is at 20% of store capacity rules right now plus it would cost me more than $2.00 in gas to get there.
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