W.A.T.

My 2 cents... When building the aluminum sheet metal parts for the aircraft builds, we use a mid-sized router with a 1/4" carbide bit. If you take the time to fashion a shroud and hook up a shop vac there is almost no mess at all. Use cutting oil designed for aluminum. Measure from the outside edge of the bit to the edge of the router base. Then use double-back-tape to hold down a strait strip of 1"x 1/4" aluminum bar as a guide. Sure makes life easier for me. Good luck and let us know which method works best for you. Disclaimer: Use this advise at you own risk. Safety Glasses recommend and sober up before trying this.

+1 +2 All Balls are trash. Don't buy trash!

For what it's worth, I removed my VFR Heli bars from my VFR800 before selling it and installed the tall VFR Heli bars on my BB. Stock lines are working but could use the longer ones. MRA windshield has no clearance issues. Love the way it fits me now. No problem bending my elbows should I need to get out of the wind for quick high speed run. I would recommend this mod to my friends.

Money sent for the fuel petcock. 29. 97 gas tank fuel valve assy

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/mcy/3228190845.html If I didn't already have 4 bikes this would be mine. Only 8900 miles and $3500 Anyone know this guy?

Correct me if I am wrong, I know you guys and gals are good at this. I did a search looking for these Honda parts numbers in the entire forum and could not find them 23801-445-770 or 23801-425-010 These number are important for anyone wanting to use a Factory Honda 18 tooth front sprocket on their Blackbird. The parts are obsolete according to Honda but the old ones can be bought at a steel if you let google help you find them. Originally designed for the 750 F/K Nighthawk or Super Sport. These sprockets are an exact fit for the birds and made by Honda. They do not have the rubber noise damper but that is still OK. Bought mine for $18.00 on Ebay. No more warped sprockets for me... see http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...ission+problems

Dibs on the tank...just waiting for the payment details. Didn't want you guys to get all foamy at the mouth. Thank you Hank. David

The L-16 is a two seat tandem, both occupants sit forward, full glass roof, used by the Air force for observation. See photo...not mine but it does look correct for the original Air force paint scheme. Loops while sitting backwards...don't think I could stomach that, but I would love to try it.

Well I knew someone would ask this question. It is obvious that the factory rear wheel alignment marks are off (at least on mine). Even with the chain misalignment the pulley still has a problem. It does wobble when rotating.

As for the engine lockup...I have no clue. Thats why I posted that information here hoping one of the really fart smellers here would have a good answer. The engine seems to be fine with no strange noises so far. It still has the original CCT installed but I have a new one ready to install if it starts making chain noise. Do you think I should go ahead and install it now?

Update: I cut open the oil filter and checked for metal, expecting to find lots. To my relief, the filter was as clean as any I have ever seen, as was the oil. Fresh oil and filter installed. Removed the front sprocket cover and while on the center stand put the bike in gear and watched the chain and sprocket. Problem found: The photo I attempted to attach explains the problem. One side of the sprocket shows extreme wear. On the same side of the sprocket, 180 degrease across there is no wear at all. The stupid thing is warped. The 18T front sprocket that I installed a while back was ordered from White Buffalo Racing, when it arrived it had no markings other than the number 18 stamped on it. No way for me to know who made it. (New rule for me, If they don't put their name on it, DO NOT USE IT.) Obviously the engine backfire is not related, crazy how my mind always assumes the worst. Who makes the best front sprocket, 18 tooth, that is willing to put their name on it? You guys are the greatest, thanks for your input and help.

I have a XX Manual, just need to get out in the shop and get started looking into the problem. Thanks for you offer to use yours that's cool. I onced owned a Cheif as well (great little plane). I sold it and bought a L-16 Aeronca "Military Champ". It needs to be restored as well. Spent 8 years working with Maule Engineering but left them to try to catch up at home. Still trying to catch up after 9 years. www.wrightaircrafttechnology.com

Thanks Redxxrdr for your offer... Well the chain and sprockets are almost new maybe only 500 miles, oil changed at that time also. I did notice while adjusting the new chain that the chain gets tighter and looser as I turn the back wheel. Not sure if the new DID chain would do that or if it could be something else. Today I drained the oil expecting to see the tail tale signs of gray aluminum power ground up in the oil but it looked clean and normal. Tomorrow I will pull the filter and cut it open and check for metal. I'm thinking that the bearing near the drive sprocket is going bad. Only 14,000 mile since new and always stored indoors. How hard is it to get to the transmission bearings? I normally work on small airplanes and have a FAA A&P/IA mechanics license but, this is my baby. Not looking forward to this at all and I know this is no airplane.

Background: At cold engine startup I noticed that the engine would backfire slightly and run ruff until it warmed up. I did not think much about it, just thought it was normal for a cold engine. (I now believe it was running too lean due to slightly clogged idle jets) (Jet kit now ready to be installed) Note: If yours does this don't put it off. A bad day about a year ago: I started the engine and shortly after it started (it was running) it backfired (I think) so hard that is sounded just like someone took a sledge hammer and hit the bottom of my engine as hard as they could. The engine stalled and was completely locked up. I tried to restart it but it was completely locked. I went inside and cried for a bit then returned. It still would not turn over at all with the starter. I put it in second gear and started rocking it back an forth, then I hit the starter and it started running. I was glad that it sounded fairly normal but was very concerned that it could have internal damage. Today: It has been about 200 miles since that happened but now I have noticed a loud knocking noise coming for the transmission area. It is most noticeable rolling up just before I come to a stop. I put it on the center stand and turned the wheel by hand and there is something definitely wrong. All of the gears shifts fine and everything else seem OK. Not sure what has happened. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, W.A.T.

I would like to purchase it if it is available, see pm