EVLXX

If you cant find 10W40... Q: Can you mix oil grades to get what you want? A: Yes, 2 quarts of 5w30 mixed with 2 quarts of 15w50 = 10w40.

LOL... 3 Beer Haze of stupidity... LOL. Old fuckers are lightweights... I'm amazed you can see that you fucked it up without your reading glasses on. If you have not completely taken the finish off, in other words you just scuffed the clear coat, just re clear coat it. If on the other hand you can already see bare metal... well... flip a coin and pick an option from above, personally, I like the Camo Duck Tape suggestion... just because it's good for 200mph. lol

MOBIL 1 15W-50 Tried a bunch of others, and came back to this, it's cheap, last all year, and it makes the Bird shift like butter.

Yes there can be a lot of problems associated with wrapping the headers, mainly moister trap and rust, but also heat fatigue and cracking (too much heat stays in the pipe and makes it weak) So , No, I don't like wrapping headers unless they are stainless and thick. However, with all that said... yes I did partially wrap the headers on my bike, but i did this to help the motor cool. I only wrapped the headers for about 4 or 5 inches from the flanges. Once the wrap was below the radiator, it stops. I was hoping to stop the radiant exhaust heat from going into the radiator, and I think it worked rather well. I think my bike runs a lot cooler now, but I have no data to prove it.

Actually.... Ever if a valve or 2 is bent slightly, you'd be amazed at how fast it will straighten itself out if you can get it running again (if it's not really bad). My son had a POS 97 escort, same story, bought a belt, figured it was worth a shot on a throw away car... it made a lot of noise for about 5 minutes, then slowly started to quiet down and run fine. I told him he was stupid lucky... that shit doesn't happen every day. but hey, it did that day.

Easy. Buy a rubber expansion plug. See picture.

You should not expect double the wear... average rpm on my motorcycle is probably somewhere in between 2 - 4K rpm's. 2K in town... 4 K on the highway. My car is about the same. I changed the first set of IR's out in the car at 100K. They were visibly eroded, but the car still ran great. New plugs... and yes it ran smoother, but no change in fuel mileage etc. Now for the bike.... there should be NO doubt that a good IR plug like the one listed above, should last you at least 50K miles. However, I... just me, like to change some things out, maintenance wise, a little early, just to keep them in premo running condition. So I change them at 25K ish. The beauty of the IR plugs is their resistance to fouling coupled with their long service life. They are kind of like a self cleaning spark plug, if you will, and this helps to keep things running smoothly, even if you get a bad tank of gas from somewhere.

Q:How often do I change my plugs? A: Hmmm.... not very fucking often. IR plugs are said to be good for 100,000 miles, and I have run them that long in our car, but I treat my motorcycle completely different from my wifes daily driver. I would change them every 25,000 or so... give or take a year. Ngk IMR9c-9H $10.04 each including shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/ NGK 6777 {#IMR9C9H} Iridium; Laser Iridium GoodLuck.

http://www.roadstercycle.com/

Seems OK? Good info there... On a similar note, I had a problem last year with my dirt bike, very basic electrical circiut, and the bike would not rev up if the head light switch was on. It turned out to be a bad battery.... The battery was going bad... and when the lights were turned on, the charging system could not produce enough to fire the coils properly. My suggestion is you follow the posted charging system test very thoroughly, and report back. I'm still under the impression you have an electrical problem.

OK, last time.... I strongly suggest you buy a plastic welder like this... http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/plastic-welders/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html Plus... Thinking about this again... now I can't remember if the lower fairing was ABS or TPO... hmmm.... In any event... ounce you get a plastic welder, you can fix it right, actually stronger than it was before if you melt the metal screen into the plastic. Not to mention... ounce you have the welder... you can repair other cracked or broken plastic things as well.

You have a 99 model.. it's a known problem with the ecu mapping on the 99 and 00 models. They fixed it in 01 when they eliminated the bar sensor, and changed the fuel programming. You can fix the majorety of it with a PC2.. by adding a 1 value in the 5% throttle position map. Other than that you just need to practice being just a little more on the throttle or off the throttle while cruising.

it gets too hot, makes the plastic brittle.

Good Job... man that's a good deal.

Your fairing is ABS... With that said, there are a numbers of ways you can repair it, and yes as Tuffguy posted, the true key to a succesful repair is in the Preperation. The best bet would be to use a plastic welder... Like this... http://www.urethanesupply.com/Airless-Welders-1/ You can also use ABS shavings from a piece of ABS pipe mixxed with ABS glue from the harware store. This works great if you can repair both sides of the break or crack. And lastly... epoxies etc.

cough&BULLSHIT@cough!! Ahum..... Sorry for that. It would be the Front Tire. As for tires... You live in PA, gets cold, if you ride in the cold, go with Michelin Pilot Road 3's or 4's. You do not need Powers for the Road. Now if you're going to do some track days.... well anyways, you get the picture.

He's just trying to Upsale.... (rip you off, Note place of business and don't go back) You would know it if it had gone bad.

ok... didn't get a chance to try the stock cans... yet. however I did a retest using the baseline adjustment, which was in the downstairs bathroom this morning, and absolutely nothing in the house running. After this... I retested the bike using the 20" 45 degree method. Valve closed.. Idle... 55 dB. 2K....59 dB. 3.3K..66 dB 5K.... 64 dB. Valve open... Idle... 59 dB. 2K.... 63 dB. 3.3K.. 66 dB. 5K .... 64 dB. That's when I noticed the problem.... the flat line. At 66 dB the graph was a flat line, like the phones microphone or sound dampening software had kicked in, and was limiting the reading to nothing higher. In fact I tried several times to make the graph go higher and it just wouldn't. Then I noted that my correction factor was -25... which means that 66 dB is the same as 91dB ... which is the same as I measured before. So.... this all just tells me the phone app... means nothing, it's junk. I'll have to see if I can find a true sound meter... and retest it again.

That was the "Sound Meter Pro" app on the Galaxy S4 correct? Nice. good job. I Like the screen shots. edited to add: I can see that the problem is going to be in the calibration. Hmmm... if I measure objects around the house... and compare them to general decibel level charts... my phone seems to be reading just fine with no calibration corrections. by the way... this is cool. http://wwwn.cdc.gov/niosh-sound-vibration/Default.aspx

Pressure... Correct. I also think it's BS. that the guy in the video over dramatizes the harmfullness of of the levels, and it's BS that the "motorcycle" test is measured at 20". I was recently at a Railroad crossing test, and they measured the signal decibles at 10 Feet. I'm going to have to retest this using my phone and the prescribed angles and distances above, and see what I get. I might even put the Stock exhaust on, yes I still have it, and see what it is. Might not be today... might take a few days, for a time slot to open up in my schedule, but I'll get there.

I will have to perform the test again, following the criteria in this video, and see what the numbers are.

Hmmm...do to his lack of correspondence, I guess more than just his hand went numb.

LOL. Love it. Anything is a Hammer.

Now I can say.... Yes. I tested several different app decibel meters using my Galaxy S5 Active. Most of them really didn't change very much, and would max out at about 83-85 dB. But I found One that seems to have actually given me some promising numbers. It is the "Sound Meter Pro" by Mobile Essentials. It recorded the following results @ 5200 rpms one meter directly behind the motorcycle. Closed. 80 dB Open. 91 dB

I have no idea... 2 weekends.