runner

Try Rick's Electrics....

Run jumper cables from the battery to the (2) starter input terminals...if nothing happens, it's dead. I use Rick's Electrics for my electrical parts.

What is the bikes service history? I have a Nighthawk 750 that has had various electrical gremlins. The starter & headlight not burning may be separate issues. What happens if you run jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter terminals? (I have replaced the Nighthawk starter twice over the past decade).

After 30k my old plugs looked pretty good (I was surprised). I swapped to the Iridiums & it runs even better...thks

I was checking my K&N filter last night & came across a small 'filter' towards the back of the airbox ( on the bottom). It's approx. 1.5" x 2" & has a large hose (breather?) running towards the front of the bike. What is this filter & what's a good place to find a replacement? Mine has a pretty good size tear in it. (98 CBXX). thanks

I changed them 30k ago.... I can't believe the miles passed so quickly. I will report back how the old set looked when I change them this weekend. thanks

How often do you change your plugs? Is there an upgrade option & is it worth the extra $$$

Reporting back after a few hundred miles w/the delink. For me, it works great! I simply like full control of both front & rear brakes. Highly recommended....

What do you recommend if he finds pure gas (non-ethanol). What would the fuel issues be then? (Still use Stabil?) I try to use this in spite of the fact it's about 75 cents more per gallon...

Bleed, bleed & re-bleed. They are much better now. I will update further after living with the delink for a few hundred miles.

I finally went with the JAWS (UK company) delink kit and the rear brake issues are history. However, my front brakes are really weak. I have bled them ... but guess I need to bleed them a lot more. This thing will stop 'right now' when finished. The delink kit has a 'dead' bolt plug for the middle piston. Logically, the front brakes should the operate about as they did before delinking (still using the outer (2) pistons). Any recommendations on restoring front brake power? (I run EBC HH pads)

Curious...anyone try the Jaws delink kit? It appears to be complete and recommended by the 'other' CBXX Forum members. Based in UK yet will ship to USA...

I will plead ignorance, should I will pull the MC off behind the seat cowling & check the return bleed hole? (I had trouble finding this return hole during the previous full flush). Recommendations on how to check the secondary return? Frustration....

The sage continues. After replacing the seals/ cleaning everything... the brakes stick On The Interstate on the way to work. (I had tested it for 20+ miles previously & they were working great). No way to pull over without being hit...so I ride to work. The rear caliper is literally smoking & pads are toast. Ughhhh. Anyways, I will relieve the pressure (bleed screw) & ride home with no rear brakes today. Time to delink... What is the easiest/most effective way? (The delink 'link' appears to cut off in mid-conversation on the topic). Recommendations?

The seal replacement & piston cleanup took care of the brake sticking issue. Live & learn...thanks

It's a fool's decision to re-use the seals. Mine should be hear today from Partzilla. The dental pick worked perfect for the removal. thanks

My thoughts exactly. If the caliper rebuild falls short it's de-link time!

Where do yu usually source brake parts, CBXX specific bolts, etc for your bird? I have used many, many sources ... these days it's often MC Superstore & Bike Bandit. Recommendations?

Today's update...I have greased the caliper slider, pulled & cleaned the secondary MC, checked the pads, removed, cleaned & reattached the secondary MC for wear left (All good). Anyways, when I actuate the rear brake pedal I see the middle piston protrude & then retract smoothly. So, it's the linked garbage that's causing the binding. As referenced above, I will next use the Mityvac to change the fluid (it's been a while) & see if that cures the ailments. (I do use a shop manual & am strict about maintenance ... 2 birds owned w/ about 85 +k combined miles on them over the years. First time I have had this issue!). Quick question- is there a secondary MC return hole? (Which could be gunked up) If not, would the return hole in the primary MC (handlebar mounted) possibly be plugged up? I want to be sure to address this when it's opened up for the fluid change. thanks

I rode the CBXX to work yesterday (rare 40 degrees !). Leaving from work to return home I was certain I had a rear flat. The back was just really dragging. I pulled out of traffic & the rear disc was piping hot & the Double EE's were literally smoking. Ouch! Anyways, the pads are at 75% new & the bike is maintained very well (stored in heated garage). Help! The first thoughts are the pad slider pins need checking or somehow dirt made its way into the caliper cups (need cleaning and/or replacing. Recommendations?

WIth temps in the mid-60's the day went well. My 98 bird was fast on the Talledega track (Lil Tally... not the Nascar track) but a challenge to get thru the corners with all the 600's. I would lose in the corner what I made up on the straights. The double H EBC's saved my tail almost every lap. I used all of the tire ... no chicken strips here. I think I am hooked...studying the Bargy Racing School schedule now....

What are some tips for using the bird for track day? Pros & cons? Best tires? Water wetter or other? thanks

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=75923&hl=speedometer Here you go...

Battery thought....what is the reading? (Around 13 volts +/-). If its less than 12 volts its likely gone. Obviously, check for corrosion & good connections....

Kinks in the chain indicate the wear for me...kinda strange since the bird is the only MC (that I remember) that's had the kinks appear. (I have ridden MC's since 1970...). I am looking at the DID as mentioned above.