JohnA

Interesting thread, I've been following it silently almost since it began. I sincerely hope it won't end up in the long pile of 'woulda, coulda, shoulda' Let's see...

Thanks to BigJeff and MileHi for sharing their maps :icon_clap: After comparing them with each other and my previous 'composite' map they do appear to be of higher quality than the questionable maps posted by Dynojet. At least they move in the similar directions, one being slightly richer than the other one. I'll try them both and see which one works best (although I suspect that the 'seat of pants' dyno will not be able to tell the difference between them) Thanks again guys, I'm off to upload them now

I suspect that you risk expensive damage with this method. It used to be safe in carb times, before electronic ignitions and the like.

But the PAIR valves don't work all the time, do they? They might well be operational only on over-run and idle/low load, in which case they wouldn't affect the range we're interested here. I'm not 100% sure on this, just going by my experience with other emissions systems like EGR etc. My suggestion.... run the Zero map... and add fuel only in the 5000 and 5500 ranges... and in the 60 - 80 and 100% columns, with a 1-2-3 recpectively. Yeah, that's where the volumentric efficiency would be a bit higher, isn't it? Because other than that one area..... the Honda ECU does a fantastic job of Correcting itself for the minor mods you have made. I'm not sure how the Honda ECU can 'correct' itself for this. It has no feedback from closed-loop operation so it has to operate on fixed maps and apply the odd offsets from the knock-sensor activity. Other ECUs I know try to stay closed-loop as long as they can and they continously adjust the maps. Under certain conditions they even shift to different open-loop maps if they feel that the operating parameters have changed dramatically. But the Honda ECU has no such feedback (99 model)

It could well be an issue with the PCII/ECU loom plugs. You are introducing two extra sets of connectors, that is bound to increase the probabilities of a failure. It's a good idea to take them off, spray all (male and female) with a good contact cleaner, dry them well and refit tightly. Every little helps.

Obviously I'd too be interested in any member's map (for a 99-2000 bird) that is known to work fine, so I can compare it to what I've got. I have no confidence on the maps posted by Dynojet

I fitted a pair of cans yesterday, legal (with an easily detatchable gizmo) but straight-through design nevertheless. And since I already have a PCII, I naturally decided to use an amended map. There are two on the PC site for the UK bird with 'race' cans, so I thought that I could use a composite of those two mixed up with the 'stock' map (since mine are not 100% ear-shattering antisocial) Easy eh? Eeeerrmmmm... Nope. :icon_wall: Upon close inspection, the online maps are all over the place. Even compared to the 'full race' ones they are incosistent and random. WTF? I would expect them to be broadly similar, correlating quite a bit. OK one might have '10' where the other one has '12' (and the stock map has '3') but roughly moving in the same direction. No chance --- there are even cases where they go the OPPOSITE way (one is adding fuel and the other one taking off fuel, for the same load/rev combo) :icon_duh: Then I have another worry: did these people block the PAIR valves when doing the mapping, or were they fooled by the deceptively lean indications on the wideband? Finally I tried to make some sense out of the 'full race exhaust' maps, but it didn't help much. They are for 4-1 exhausts that sacrifice midrange for top end. At least those are broadly consistent with each other. I did create a 'best guess' map and I'm running it now, but do I trust it? :icon_think:

Busy this weekend, took off the tail to do the 99loom fix. Unveiled the connector, was a bastid to come off. Anyway, there was corrosion but not excessive. So I decided to play it cool, clean&rub everything, dry with compressed air and repackage in a plastic bag and lots of insulation tape. It is now cable-tied to the frame, like the picture on the 'guide' here. We'll see how it holds, if the ECU light comes up again I'll solder the lot. Seeing as the rectifier is not too far away, I was thinking if these two failures. are related

I'm doing this fix this weekend. FI light has come up a couple of times for no apparent reason (99 model) Most probably I'll hardwire the bastid.

Maybe juuuuuust a tiny bit nice to meet you

looks like we touched a nerve there, eh? Anyway, I had the bike on mothballs for 3 years, hence the absence. Happy now? Relax, you'll live longer...

excellent idea. Dump the large airbox with ramair feed and swap for preheated air through pods. Heat is good :icon_wall:

It does actually have a drain plug and I do change it regularly (supra mkiv)

yeah, but if you remember this reccomendation was changed when the triplanes were all the rage. Ah, those were the dayz... Anyway, the acid neutralisers, detergents, VI improvers etc don't live for ever --- they are used up or expire! Honda (or any manufacturer) would not sell as many bikes (or cars) if they reccomended 3K mile oil change periods and competitors 8K periods, would they?. People nowadays are into 'maintenance-free' purchases.

I don't let it go beyond 3K miles. Never have, never will. I wonder if people changing oil often have experienced the CCT 'issue'