hotdogpork

Thanks very much Mike. Please let me know the results if you get around to testing it.

Has any of you with high mileage ever had to replace the ECU?

Hey Mike, Just wondering if there's been any update from your conversation with the Honda dealer? Was there a service bulletin issued on this test? Thanks!

ok thanks. so I guess no point for me to go looking for bad grounds then? I'm clueless about electical diagrams so apologies for the inane questions.

Thank you! Please let me know, would appreciate that very much! yes i did the loom fix (soldered them all together), but what plug are you referring to? The plug you removed, when you soldered the wires together. NO pictures here anymore, but does this sound like what you did. See the deal with the knock sensor is that it has to have a reading within a range, to adjust the timing. If continuity is compromised so is the range. I have never had a problem, but bad fuel might cause it to knock too. I would see what the resistance is in the wire from Sensor and to the EFM. Yes, but mine is a 2002 so my plug was yellow. Frankly I don't think the plug was the problem for post 2002 birds because the contacts were all very clean inside, but I could be wrong. I also don't think the light is showing because the engine is knocking; i think the light shows because the feedback loop is somehow not working. Either the ECM is not recieving any signals from the knock sensor when it is supposed to or perhaps like you say the signal is unexpected. I will try to check the resistance this weekend or when I can find time off work. My gut feel is that this is not a mechanical problem at all (i.e. engine knocking, bad fuel) but rather an electrical fault. I've heard that some ECMs in other vehicles perform a diagnostic test of the knock circuitry by purposely advancing timing till the engine knocks slightly and then listen for a signal from the knock sensor. If it gets none it flags a fault. What does everyone else think?

yes i did the loom fix (soldered them all together), but what plug are you referring to?

Hi Mike, Thanks very much for the tips. These are the things I've done to troubleshoot the problem: 1) Changed a brand new knock sensor from dealer, reset fault code. (no help) 2) Checked continuity between knock sensor plug and pin on harness which goes into ECM. (check) 3) Checked connection and fit of plug on knock sensor (check) The only option left for me is a bad ECM. Do these things go bad often? Almost everyone I've spoken to who've owned a blackbird in my country has had this problem if their bikes had any amount of age. Read from another post the bird ECM goes bad after 4 years? Another thing, my mechanic also wired up a lot of spare grounds to frame for me, however we didn't check the engine ground. Is there anyway for me to do a quick and dirty check that the engine ground is ok without removing a lot of stuff? I can't read electrical diagrams, but will any other problem in any other part of the harness cause this fault to trigger, or is this fault solely isolated to the knock sensor circuitry (i.e. the ECM must be the only culprit left)?

thanks for the tips. I've been getting the dreaded 25 blink problem and it isn't the knock sensor. Mine is an 02 model. Have done the loom fix (although it might not be necessary on an '02). Problem went away for a month by itself (without me resetting the code) and now it's back. Just thought I'd check the grounds.

Hi folks, need some help identifying where the grounds on the bike are (I assume they're attached to the frame?) Mine is an 02 model if that matters, thanks.

Singapore uses ROM octane ratings, not (RON+MON)/2 as we do here in the states. RON is a higher numerical value, hence the 95. I believe the XX requires 91 octane RON gasoline. Hotdog....check your battery grounds as has been mentioned, and also check your charging system output. thanks for the RON octane stuff, people always ask me that and I don't know how to answer...hehe does a bad battery ground give this fault code? i'm an electrical idiot, so if someone doesn't mind educating me, I'll be very grateful. TIA!

I still have no luck finding the connector although I looked all over the trunk area, even dug up the ECM to have a look underneath. However, I've managed to get the fault code. Strange, I followed the manual and turned ignition off, on, start bike on side stand, no FI blinks. However, if I ride the bike till the FI light comes on, then put it to idle on side stand, the fault code comes out. 25 blinks - knock sensor or ECM faulty. Praying it's the knock sensor and not the ECM. I've heard a lot of guys in my country having this 25 blink problem, is this a known common fault of the bird, with the knock sensor going bad? Do a lot of you guys in the UK get this problem also? Any idea what causes the knock sensor to kaput? Is it a wear and tear piece of hardware with a known service life? Thanks!

hey, thanks. i tried to find my connector in the trunk but no luck finding it. I read the shop manual and it says if the engine can start, to start it with the side stand down and in neutral and the FI light will blink if there's a fault memory, so i think the connector is for the case when the bike won't start? i tried revving the engine past 3k rpm in neutral and it kinda cuts out, like hitting a rev limiter. was thinking could bad plugs cause this as well? or is it bad gas?

Where do you find this? in Singapore..

I'll try to list down the sequence of things that happened. I was low on fuel, so went to the fuel pump to fill up with gas. It says 95 octane on the pump, the kind I usually pump, I've used this station many times before. After that, was riding for about 10 - 15 mins and noticed that FI light was on, so I took it slow and kept revs below 3k rpm. I went to complain to the gas station manager that perhaps their gas was contaminated or something, bought a bottle of STP octane booster and poured 3/4 into my fuel tank, same thing, no difference. I went home, checked the manual, and started the bike in neutral with side stand down. The FI light did not blink (does this indicate no fault memory?) I started riding it and the FI light doesn't come on till I hit about 3000rpms and above, then it stays on. When I turn it off and on again, no fault memory again. I'm thinking it's bad gas, and I'll find out soon once I finish up this tank of gas. I intend to ride it slow and try to keep it at 3k or below rpms till I can pump a fresh tank of gas and try again. Any idea what the problem with my bike is, anyone?

Everyone, Thank you so much for your help. There were 2 problems on my bike that caused the engine cutting off. One of the wires behind the ignition switch was corroded (the part which was soldered onto the barrel). Mechanic fixed this and tested the bike by turning the handlebars left and right vigourously. Engine cut off again. Happened that there was another problem, the immobilizer wire had broken off inside it's insulation. After that was fixed, bike was ok. Thank you all so much for coming through for me, really appreciate it.