ptxyz

thanks for the sanity check, gents! while i love my big green pig (klr), i'm really missing my bird!

it's been almost a month since my bird's (fuel injected 2000) been out of commision after my curb hoppin'. the last piece i'm waiting for to make her whole again is that free front tire from pirelli. how concerned should i be about the inactivity? i know some of you here don't ride for long periods, any problems when it's time to wake 'em? should i start her up every few weeks? drain the fuel and run her until she sputters? just be patient? c'mon pirelli! it's bad form to complain about waiting for something that's free but, some communication would be appreciated...

never had to do so myself (current bird's a 2000, also has had a rough life) but, if the price is ballpark, i'd stay with oem.

i know, i know... this damn thing's keeping me up at night! think i could get $ 2500 for a slightly rough 2000 w/ about 30k?

if you're comfortable with your sexuality, how about a scrunchie? just don't let your pals see under your seat...

i've used a dremel in a pinch. kinda slow though... big box hardware stores sell a little kit that includes a drill attachment and balancing tool. also slow, depending on the drill. don't see why one couldn't take it to a curb at the proper angle if nothing else is available. bench grinder makes quick work of it. around 45 degree angle. make it too sharp like a butcher knife and it will knick and dull more quickly. grandpa was a landscaper / gardener. before i was old enough to have "real" jobs, i used to work for him.

probably best to get 'em off the ground with jack stands. if not that, at least inflate to the maximum pressure. i wouldn't expect flat spots unless the tires go flat or are under inflated to begin with.

some bike particulars will be helpful here but, let's assume an early (97-98) with stock pipes and not unreasonably high miles (under 30k?). i'd think you'd only get the full benefit of a jet kit with aftermarket pipes. while a properly installed & tuned kit will help with throttle response, there's not much new power to be had with a jet kit alone. if you're bike's otherwise stock and you don't want to break the bank, have the carbs synced (as a mater of course, this is done when installing a jet kit as well). with a couple of adjustments each (fuel / air, butterfly stop) on each of the 4 carbs, there's plenty to optimize here. my old '97 was happiest right after a carb sync. if i recal, i traded her at around somewhere over 40k and the valve clearances were still within spec.

i share this from another forum for kawi's klr. not sure if the link will work (or is cool with the admins...) but, i'll try; http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110552 seems they don't like freezing temps despite no explicit warning from the manufacturer. disappointingly, bridgestone has not done right by the owner of these cracked tires.

i use this one of my cars too. works fine, just takes longer. untitled.bmp

i'd say, yes it does increase up to a point. the chain run will be the longest when the centers of the front spoket, swing arm pivot and rear sproket are all aligned. the honda manual states the chain tension should be checked with the bike on it's side stand. less convenient than the center stand but, some needed weight on the rear end. the attached pic might help you visualize how the chain run can change as the suspension moved up and down. a few dirt bikes (lots of rear suspension travel) have the rear sproket and swingarm pivot in the same axis to maitain chain tension.

pm sent on the vfr bars (#36).

i had a full yohsi system w/ carbon can on my old '97. i believe that's the way to the biggest bolt on exhaust gains. the stock headers appear pretty restrictive in comparison. had a shop do the install along w/ a jet kit (dynojet i think - paid around $1200 all told). i'd suspect you'd need the jet kit w/ a full system. might be able to get away w/o if you get only slip ons depending on the back pressure. big difference in power and throttle response for me. afterwards it would easily lift the front in 1st and 2nd and there was more on top as well. while i loved the sound, it was loud. i got pulled over once by a cop who only heard me opening her up on the freeway (no tix, he saw nothing...). still, i loved it. i haven't done the same on my current 2000. i'd spend the dough elsewhere unless you really need the sound. perhaps some mild slip ons and having somebody good syncing your carbs will satisfy. mine seemed especially happy after the carbs got dialed in. on my current bike, i like being quiet. the top end feels stronger than my '97 but, i still miss the old bike's low end response. i'll spend on comfort or suspension before exhaust. please let us know what you end up with and how you like it.

have you noticed if the rear axle is moving? perhaps make a mark with a sharpie to see if the axle's really moving or the chain's loosening. should only be 1 washer outside the swingarm on each side. a too tight chain will quickly get longer.

assuming you don't feel any wobble on your front end, probably no need to re-balance. with the dunlops i used to buy regularly, there would often be no weights needed, just mount 'em with the mark (little yellow circle marking the tire's light spot) at the valve stem. fewer weights on a properly mounted and balanced tire / wheel assembly is indicative of a precisely manufactured tire.

while i'm not in the market, could you comment on the fork brace? i had one on my old '87 vfr and really liked it but, my own 2000 blackbird's still stock up front. very nice ride. hopefully you'll find a buyer who appreciates your setup.

i have one of these at home and it works pretty well. i might improve on things with a stiffer walled vaccum tube. the hot oil tends to collapse the tube under vaccum. oil still gets pulled through, just a bit slowly. gives time to change the filter, i suppose... http://www.amazon.com/LiquiVac-Liquivac-To...der+oil+changer holds about 2 gallons. combined with the cartridge type filter on the top of the motor in the wife's car (benz), i no longer have to crawl underneath!

+1 on corbin's "helpfullness"... you'd think with what we pay for these things and the fact they have a factory full of craftspeople, they'd be more willing to let them work.

everyday, you're in the ballpark. if the bike's running well (fuel pressure regulator and leaky vaccum lines fixed, brakes not draggin', tire pressures up to spec.), your throttle hand will be the biggest single factor. in my experience ('97 carbed & jetted with yoshi full system, unknown tall screen & '00 all stock - both bikes had my givi 52 liter tail box); 25-42 mpg. i'm about 5'8", 145 lbs. 25 mpg is my daily commute, about 8 miles each way with sometimes heavy freeway traffic - i ride like i stole it! 42 mpg riding with a group of friends on highway 1 weekend traffic. i experienced the high and low on each bike. i don't think your size / weight has that much to do with your mpg on such a powerful heavy bike.

nice model holding the cb125 tool kit! gotta wonder how's the face... i'd think the tool kits are relatively bike specific. although you're looking at the right brand, i'd try to get model specific or just replace any tools missing from yours with something from flaps (friendly local auto parts store) unless you're determined to stay original. of course, you could look at the aftermarket kits as well. as for the bird's oem strap, a heavy duty rubber band or small bungee should do. i keep a cargo net, some bungees, a tire plug kit and co2 inflation kit wrapped in a plastic bag under the seat near the tail light. being wrapped up in something kind of compressible helps to keep things in place. i'm now gonna spend some quality "me time" with that model pic... ha ha!

mine got fried in it's hot oil bath last year. it was replaced with a rick's electics and so far, so good. still using a used honda r/r though...

i've piggybacked on that thread... thanks for that, i'm learning along with you. your description of the sucking sound reminded me of the time my '97 coughed off a vaccum line to the carb on the right side. does the sound kind of pulse? although yours is f.i., are you confident you didn't miss any vaccum lines?

if you can get a multi meter, good idea to check the stator. there should be between .1 & 1.0 ohms resistance between any of the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator and ground. if out of range, you probably need a new stator. mine went bad, the poor things are bathed in hot oil. mechanic showed me where a couple of the coils overheated and fused. it was replaced with a rick's electics and been good for about a year now. i now have an extra r/r.

beautiful '97. while i like my 2000, i still miss my carbed one... the f.i. stock might have a tad more top end but, the jetted carbs with a full yoshi system was way snappier when in a proper state of tune. good luck with the sale

i've been following this thread with interest since i've always had crappy mileage with my 2000. usually around 25 mpg for my commute (i have a very heavy throttle hand...). i've measured (re-set trip meter when filling the tank to full - i know, only somewhat accurate) as high as low 40's on a sedate group ride. the bike tends to smell rich, even after fully warmed. the ends of the stock cans get black pretty soon after cleaning. except for comfort items (corbin & givi tail box), all stock. the temp tends to run towards the middle of the range with the fan coming on when moving slowly. she's definitely warmer than my previous bird. i intend to get the tank off (much more involved than my previous '97) to have a closer look at the vaccum lines and air cleaner. couple questions; is my fuel economy within what others experience? is there a way to test the fpr? i see new ones around $50 on the web. thanks in advance for the input!