TuffguyF4i

You should not expect double the wear... average rpm on my motorcycle is probably somewhere in between 2 - 4K rpm's. 2K in town... 4 K on the highway. My car is about the same. I changed the first set of IR's out in the car at 100K. They were visibly eroded, but the car still ran great. New plugs... and yes it ran smoother, but no change in fuel mileage etc. Now for the bike.... there should be NO doubt that a good IR plug like the one listed above, should last you at least 50K miles. However, I... just me, like to change some things out, maintenance wise, a little early, just to keep them in premo running condition. So I change them at 25K ish. The beauty of the IR plugs is their resistance to fouling coupled with their long service life. They are kind of like a self cleaning spark plug, if you will, and this helps to keep things running smoothly, even if you get a bad tank of gas from somewhere. You just said the same thing as me yet somehow disagreed with me and chamge your plugs at 25k instead of my suggestion of approx 50k. I dont care...just ....Interesting. lol

I've got some experience in manufacturing electronics made for outdoor environments. A 2 part potting compound would be ideal for sealing that connector to near waterproof. It is a good thing to have around the shop. You'll never use anything else again

Tin each of the wires really well. Zip tie the groups together and twist the tinned wires together a bit. Hit it with a propane or butane torch and add some more solder.

Is that your kitchen you have a bike lift in?

Just keep in mind that 100,000 mile rating is for cars that likely have an average rpm of <3k. What is a bikes average rpm? 4-6k? I would expect at least double the wear.

I pretty much agree with you guys. I'm sure there is some rot under the doors. How could there not be? What is a normal price to install a big slider like this?

I have found liquid electrical tape to be complete garbage. Even with proper prep, it doesn't really stick. That entire area of the bike gets hammered with water during rain riding. When I did my loom fix, I packed the connector with DI grease. Cleaned any excess, and taped it up. I also tucked it away so that water would not drain into the connector.

I have some very large Anderson sliding doors that have rot on the bottom of them. This home does not have gutters and that combined with large roof makes for lots of water hitting the deck and splashing back on them. Replacement without labor is $1800 each and I have 3 that need work. The entire bottom board on the stationary side would need to be replaced with the door removed.

Ok idea. Just don't start the car as the jump is being done.

I'm telling you. Make the traps. They work great.

Very nice. Barely broken in.

I made of old hardwood flooring. I catch tons of carpenter bees.

At what rpm is the battery giving 12.5?

Check battery and RR

Whatever you end up using..prep prep prep. Make sure the surface has no oils and you rough it up to give good adhesion.

I had a rear Avon on my F4i. Only tire that has ever stepped out on me in a non aggressive lean. That was enough for me. Freaked me out.

Cool project.

Get something with a proven name brand engine and a name brand mower. If some silly parts go bad, you need really good parts service. You're not going to get that from everyone. I also have a Deere mower with the Vtwin Kawi engine...a LX289. Great mower...but used it was $2700 with 250 hrs. I need it with my property. Not sure I really like JD equipment...but that is another story.

Bah...those same people would drop 2k on truck tires or stereo. You can pull that mini amd sell it for $800 all day long. Not that you ever would.

Maverick is a great cheap shotty. Not quite as rugged as the 500 or the 590A1...but still way better than other $200 12 guages. That is a sweet conversion.

That's nice. I might pick one of those up to use as a direct hard wired plug to use as a trickle charger hookup on the atv.

If you plan on doing heated grips...get some large shrink tubing and put that on the bar handles before the grip goes on. This insulates the heater from the bar and you get much more heat on your hands instead of heating the hollow metal bar core.

You can remove that cylinder plastic block. I think it is a rf filter.

I have the 110v cord. It looks like this.

I think I do. If I do..you can have it for shipping.