TuffguyF4i

I searched some more,,, found this thread... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...stainless+brake From what i gathered... The ss lines come to the top hose (the in) on both the left and right caliper. Also, the bent hose ends belong on the calipers, not the master cylinder. I think thats enough to get me started. I've done lots of brake work, just never replaced any lines. Any tips that save some time/mess would be great. Thanks!

I purchased the two line kit for the front. Where do i hook it up? The front braking system looks about as simple as spagetti thrown on a window. From what i could tell, it goes like this.. -Main line -joins splitter, seems to continue to on to right and shoot over to left side -right joins right caliper Can you hook up SS brake lines w/o disabling the LBS? If anyone could provide a pic, i would appreciate it. Thanks guys.... i seached but didn't find much. Dave

I have some advice... Eat some carbs! Good ones. Wheat bread, brown rice, veggies, and everything else that is non-processed. Low carb should be a VERY short term solution. Working out and eating healthy will pay off in the long run and will be WAY more sustainable then a quick fix like super low carb.

She's concocted a homebrew ECA stack (Ephedrine, Caffiene, Asprin) which is essentially what made earlier ephedra based fat burners so effective. Hard to make the homebrew work becauuse you need to get the proper proportions of each ingredient. Oh, and the NoXplode is a vaso-dilator so you should get some crazy pumps from it, but that's it's primary function, the creatine is a secondary. I saw most of my creatine results from Cell-Tech (muscle-tech brand) awesome stuff. Creatine serum is always going to be the best but it's hard to find and pricey. NO and liquid creatine is total CRAP! NO is very temporary, and has no proven effects. Liquid creatine is essentially nothing. Creatine breaks down very quickly in H2O. The tests they do are right after they mix it. By the time you get it in the store there is almost no creatine in the bottle. Total scam!!!! You are way better off with a good glutamine and creatine mix. Avoid the celltech garbage,,,its all sugar.

Well this sucks. I think i put a fram on with my last change. I'll get through this summer with it, and get a better one next time. Is there any difference with the motorcycle specific frams? The black ones?

Just giving everyone a heads up on a place that sells quality stuff. I used the 15 LED arrays on the side of my front cowl as running lights... VERY bright. http://www.customdynamics.com/flex_led_array.htm I used these as additions to my brake light. Also very bright. http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_l...m#LED_Hardboard They're not cheap...but they are good quality.

I need to loose about 10lbs in 60 days. Starting next week. My actual goal is to cut bf% and keep some weight. I'm starting off, not so aggressive for the first 30 days. Then i'll see where it takes me for the last 30. I will do a clen cycle the last 30 for sure. Good stuff to cut with.

Tricktape kit?

The blue wax i use is Zymol. Good stuff.

Interesting. Never heard of that stuff you guys are talking about. Yet another way for me to spend money and justify it!

I deal with over 20,000 customers in the Car Washing and Detailing Industry. You above statement in inaccurate at best and downright false at least. Anyone that knows anything about paint finishes would tell you that you do Not use abrasives of any kind with a Buffing wheel. Abrasives are used with High Speed or Rotary Polishers and Waxes, Sealants or Glazes are used with Buffers or Orbital's. Abrasives are only to be used to hide specific flaws, scratches or swirl marks. If Oxidation or dulling of a finish is visable then abrasives are not neccessary and will ultimately dramatically reduce the durability of the finish over the long haul. As Toynut said clear coats are not very thick and thinning them out by use of abrasives is not productive and eventually will require a re-paint. The key is not milage but rather the quarterly waxing and protection you give the finish to maintain the factory finish. Keep the vehicle clean and protected and abrasives will never be neccessary. My 2001 Red Bird has never been washed with water. In fact has only gotten wet by riding in the rain. I clean it when needed using nothing but Honda Spray or my own Awesome Gloss with Micro-Fiber. It still looks like the day it bought with 6 miles on the clock. It now has 42,000 miles. I would never think of using an abrasive on it any more than I would use wet sand paper on it. I mis spoke,,, i think it was an orbital he used on the car. It really does look great.

I've used the same method for each sportbike i've owned. Since none of them are really THAT old, flushes are usually marginally effective. Meaning that, they may need it, but if it went another year, it wouldn't be that big of a deal. Take off left fairing. Loosen radiator hose that goes to the base of the left side of the engine. On the xx it looks like the lowest place of the radiator system. I put the bike on its kickstand to lean it to that side, instead of the center stand. Yank the hose off. It will come gushing out...i had an empty wide mouth 5 gallon bucket nearby. Remove the radiator cap to help drain all the fluids. I usually put my finger inside the tube. If i feel anything gritty from the radiator breaking down, i will flush with the garden hose, cap, run, drain and reflush. Fill with whatever fluid makes you happy.

For car finishes, the best thing you can do for a car with 50k+ miles on it, is some abrasive on a good buffing wheel. The finish on my '03 eclipse went from good to amazing. He knows whats up. Thats not something you do more then a few times in the entire life of the car. What i did when i got my bird is this... Meguires body scrub - light abrasive Meguires glaze A super high quality wax - its blue,,can't remember the name off the top of my head.

Looks like the price went up reciently. It was at 100 bucks a little while ago. I did some research. It says the average life of the ballasts is 3-4 years? Does that sound right? I honestly don't want to be replacing them in 2-3 yrs if they fall a little short on the life cycle.

Sounds good!! Just wait till it warms up!!! That HID seller guy online is selling the HID 5300 kits (2 ballast, 2 bulbs) for $185. Seems like a good deal...is it? Is 5300 the way to go? Is the brand any good? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...E:B:BOCOR:MOT:1

Did mine last night. He wasn't kidding, it is tight working in that area. Espically for that #4 plug! I have big hands, so its kind of hard for me to squeeze in there. All said and done, it took me about 2 hrs. I could do it in 30 mins next time. You really don't need to tq those plugs down much. I pretty much tightened them till i felt good resistance and gave up. I didn't want to push it.

Where can i see your pics?

Once i find where i want to buy the kit, i'll have to weigh the cost of buying both high and low. Where did you guys buy from? Thanks for the help.

I love the way the dual pipe setup looks. Its nice!

I'm not going to get a projector kit, even though i know they have better lighting distribution. I really don't feel like chopping up my headlight housing... So heres the question.... Should i do it to high or low beam? I was thinking high beam since then i could control when it is on or not, eliminating the need for adding a switch that prevents the light from coming on and off when you start it (decreases bulb life i am told). Plus, i pretty much leave my high beam on all the time during the day, and my night riding is somewhat limited. If i remember right the high beam is on the bottom, and the low is on the top....right? What are your thoughts guys? Help me think this through. Thanks.

Bought the NGK's at autozone. All 4 cost $29 and change. Going to do the swap tonight.

Most of the steel frame ones you can anchor to the floor. You can plop a wood top.

Sounds fun, but i think i'll be in DC this weekend. There is a huge drink and drown going on.

Wow,,i expect 1 reponse at the best! Thanks for the resposes guys..i'll make this happen this weekend.

What is the best way to swap out the plugs,,, method of attack? From the side, top, or bottom? You clearly need to remove fairings. What about the radiator and or tank? I assume it has NGK's in it. Are they the best replacement? Thanks!