joe

Just to close this out, I've been riding my bike for a while now and have no signs of trouble. Looks like the new battery did the trick. Thanks for the help guys! Joe

Hey guys. Sorry it took me so long to give you an update - I've been a little busy and it's been raining. I replaced the battery and the bike now cranks. I took it out for a while and everything seems fine, but I won't really know if I fixed the problem until the upcoming weeks (I'll keep you posted). Incidentally, I was going to purchase the battery from Ron Ayers, who lists it for $63.00. When I called to see if it's a maintenance free battery, they told me that they don't actually sell it. Even though it's listed on their site, the order would've kicked back. Some issues with shipping hazardous chemicals and there not being a significant price difference in purchasing the part local. So I looked around, and the only place I could find the battery was at the stealership. $130.00 later, and I have a new battery - whew-hew!!! For archive purposes, the part was a YTZ12S battery made by Yausa, who happens to be the OEM. Thanks for the help, Joe

Okay, I went on a 40 minute ride yesterday and she wouldn't start back up. Obviously, the battery refused to take a charge. In the past, when my bike first died a long ride was enough to re-charge the battery. Based on the consensus, I'm going to order a new battery today. Yeah, I wondered if I'm having a problem with my R/R, but I'm going to replace the cheapest part first. As far as the distilled water, this model came with a maintenance free battery so I won't be able to do that. Thanks for the troublshooting results, though. I might compare them to mine if I go through the trouble diagnosis procedure another time. Joe

Sorry for the delay guys; I've been a little busy. I know it would be good to find out what the fix is for archive purposes. I'm going out on the bike today to see if she'll charge. I'll keep you posted. Joe

Thanks for having your friends go over the thread ironmike. I decided to have the battery checked by another shop to double check the other technician's work. The verdict: mixed. This guy said he was "the man" when it comes to this stuff and he said the battery takes a charge, but fails under a load, which shouldn't happen. He then takes it to another fancier tester which gave a "green light" indication. He puts it back on the first tester and it still fails under a load. He didn't have a batter to sell me and told me that it might take months for one to come in (they come from overseas). So I get home to put the battery back in and I remember one of the previous posts about making sure the contacts are clean. I've looked at these contacts over and over again in the past several weeks and they look almost new to me. Maybe I'm used to seeing the type of corrosion damage you see on automobile battery contacts, but I would swear they are good. I go ahead and scrap them down anyway. I start with the negative post and scratch the surfaces (battery post and connector) with a flat head screwdriver and then brush them with a wire brush. I don't notice a big difference. I then proceed to the postive side and I notice this thin film coming off as I scrap it with the screwdriver. This film is not the type of corrosion I expected and I sure wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't tried to clean them. I finish it with a wire brush and notice a difference in the luster. Now I need to go on a long ride so I can recharge the battery and see if it makes a difference. (I don't have a battery tender and don't really believe in them, but that's another thread...) If this doesn't work, I'll replace the battery. Ron Ayers lists one for about $52.00. I'll keep you posted. Joe

Okay, looks like I'll be digging a little deeper into the battery. I'll check for corrosion on the battery leads this weekend. Correct. Apparently, unbeknownst to me my laptop doesn't have Acrobat reader properly installed. It worked fine from my desktop. Joe

I agree. But like I stated, I did all of this. Everything looked fine according to the shop manual. But there still is a problem. With the symptoms I've given you, what do you think the problem is (and why if you can explain)? Joe

The link doesn't seem to work.

I did change the rear turn signals, but they've been on the bike since the odometer read about 400 miles. No other electronics. By the way, the bike has 13,400 miles on it. Joe

Okay, let me get everyonoe up to date (2003 model): 1. Bike died - instrument lights and such came on when I turned the key to "on" but the bike turned over extremely slow and then not at all. 2. Had battery checked (original) and the technician said it was good, it just needed a charge. 3. Went through the factory manual troubleshooting procedure and ohm checked the stator in the alternator. Nothing was shorted to ground. When the bike was running, it delivered the specified voltage to the R/R circuit. 4. Ohm check the R/R and it checked out alright. The battery leakage current was good, as well. 5. Confused as to what the problem was so I jumped the bike from my truck and went on a nice long ride. At the end, the bike would start again (obviously the battery got re-charged). 6. Rode the bike several days later and it started fine everytime. Methinks the problem solved itself. 7. Today I parked the bike at Autozone for about 30 minutes in the sun and the thing would not turn over. This time I had to push start it and it cranked right up. So here's my question: if the problem is with my alternator, why did it push start? Obviously, the battery was dead (again) and couldn't have been the energy source. Or could the problem be the battery even though the technician said it checked good? Maybe it's my R/R, but if it's somehow preventing the battery from charging why does it allow the bike to run? So what do the experts think? Joe

Thanks for the help guys. Yep, it was a seal I reglected to remove. All is well. Joe

It's got the same general shape, although I believe it's a little taller than the stock filter. It seems to go into place, but the problems occurs when I attempt to screw the top air box cover back in place. The cover doesn't seat properly and I can't even "force it" down. Joe

Guys, I need your help with this one. I just received a K&N air filter (part no. HA-1199) for my 2003 Blackbird from www.kneedraggers.com The filter would not fit into my bike. I looked in the box and their was this product data sheet that said it fits the 99-00' bird. Then I double checked the part I ordered on their site and it still led me to HA-1199. So, I figured kneedraggers had the wrong part listed and I went to K&N directly. Their site shows HA-1199 being the correct part, although the sheet in the box said it wouldn't fit the bike. Kneedraggers placed a call in to K&N and they told them that HA-1199 was designed to fit the 1997-2003 "Blackbird" and the 2004-5 "Super Blackbird." So now I know K&N is puffing out some smoke. But, the rep at kneedraggers called one of his buddies at a Honda dealership and he confirms that the OEM part no. (MAT-something) the K&N filter is designed to replace is the OEM part no. for my bike. He then tells me that his buddy says the filter usually needs some finagling to get in. Now, I've done my share of finagling and I know when something just does not fit. Besides, the fact that they put that product data sheet in the box confirms that it's the wrong part. If the part is an OEM replacement like they claim, it should fit in like the OEM. As far as that data sheet, K&N claims: "Oh, we need to update that." Forget ensuring that part fits, they're just going to change it to read: "Fits 99-03." You guys are my last resort. I know a lot of you have used the K&N. Tell me, what's the deal? Could Honda have changed the air box for my year bike? Joe

I've had a 190 on my rear since the bike was new (about 200 miles on the odometer). Looking at it you can tell that's there's a fatter tire on the rear, which is why I'm guessing you want it. I just replaced my rear after about 10,500 miles. And, yes I put another 190 on it. Joe

For the rubber skuffs that are burned on from your boots, use Brasso. This stuff will melt that material right off. It's particularly good for this use because it won't scratch your metal. You can get it just about anywhere: Walmart, grocery store, etc. Joe