beestoys

It's a universal unit modded to fit the BB. Here is a link to the unit and its development. http://www.cbrxx.com/honda-cbr-xx-resource-center/9185-fully-electronic-cruise-control.html

Rostra makes a dc servo unit that can be adapted to the Blackbird. I've been running mine for 6 years now and have them on a handful of bb's world wide.

Still waiting on the machine shop to get it back to me.

If you do the conversion look for a gen 2 front clip better brakes stock. Gen 1 can be made better with a radial master. Also the second gen is 3/8 of an inch shorter so you have to raise the tubes up to get a full perch with clip ons. The biggest hurdles are the ignition switch placement and upper bearing. I have worked up a kit for my son and mines BB's. It uses the stock busa lower and a billet upper. The hat is designed to use the Busa bars which with the heli's puts it 1/2 higher than stock. It will also take a standard dirt bike bar if you want by using bolt in saddles and your choice of bar. Or you can use aftermarket clipons. The hat is dropped to allow for either gen and a full clamp on the tube. It's also designed to use the factory BB bearings. The BB and the Busa use the same lower bearing size. My setup lets you keep the stock upper as well.

I make a kit that uses the newer Rostra digital stepper motor and control. Its listed here in the cbr1100xx.com board. http://www.cbrxx.com/honda-cbr-xx-resource-center/9185-fully-electronic-cruise-control.html

The bird is pretty much maxed out on the stator. There are 2 design types Delta (ours) and y configuration. The Y configuration is what you will get with a high output version. Trade off is shorter lifespan. I worked with Rick a few years back when I was having short stator lifespans. 20K average. now my daily commute at that time was 90 miles to and from work. I live in AZ so the average temp was 100 degrees and I was routinely running in traffic for 11/2 hours on my run home in the heat of the day. At times ambient was 115. Well Rick informed me that given my environment 20k was pretty good. He took a stator and gave it good going over with his engineer friend. The conclusion, there is no way to increase windings for a higher load out put wire size and insulation thickness were the blocks. Stator core couldn't be improved for the same reason space constraints. So what we have is about the best you'll get. I would recommend going to a MOSFET R/R rick looked at it after I had mentioned and found it gave a 50 watt increase as well as being much more efficient and reliable. Hope this gives you better insight. Ohh also as mentioned these stators are oil cooled as well as the case being out in the open air. I make a point to always park my bird on the center stand. The side stand leans the bike over obviously but what many may not consider is that it also floods the stator housing with hot oil.

I've got 3 years on mine now in AZ heat still working great.

Unfortunately the nature of the beast. Some suggestions from a desert ridden bird. When you park try to use the center stand it keeps the stator out of the hot engine oil and reduces the heat soak. When you get her home place a fan blowing across the front of the bike to help shed the heat for the 1st reason. Upgrade to a MOSFET R/R it will help reduce the load on the stator. Had a long discussion with Rick about the stators in the bird he used one of my cores for testing for about 2 mounths trying different combinations of windings and wire sizes. The result is that the stator size and location limit what can be done. The MOSFET upgrade resulted in a 50 watt increase by itself.

Radiator and oil cooler?

One other thing you can do if it is an injected bird. Pinch off the return line to the pressure regulator as close to the regulator as possible without cutting because the pliers pushed the hose against the end of the fitting. I would say about and inch back is safe. Have a gas gan right there with the filler neck extended, slip the end of the hose into the gas can neck and unclamp your pliers or whatever you used and the tank will now be draining it's contents. You can get at least 95% of the fuel out this way. Look for something to prop the tank up in the back just enough to keep from kinking the hose and let her drain. You can shine a light down in through the filler neck to check your progress. There will still be fuel in the main line and there isn't a clean way to get it off so I usually slide a rag under it before I crack the line loose to catch it. The rest is a rock has mentioned.

Hello all putting my sons broken bird back to together and have decided to go with the busa cinversion as a part of the rebuild. Does anyone have a part number for the upper bearing I need to fit the forks.

every I would say you nailed it with fairing washdown. The foam insulation inside the fairing is open pour so it kind of acts like a sponge. Just be sure to change the oil and filter before you light the bike up again. Glad you didn't bend a rod hydraulic locking it like that.

Hey I know I've seen it posted and wondering who has this setup and what is the benefit.

Worked great for me in Sunny hot hot AZ

Wrapped mine, out in here in AZ need all the help I can get to reduce temps and after reading a gents post I am glad I did. Makes a big temp difference at speed and cool down when setting.

From a member on another board http://www.gmaxxraceperformance.com/HEL-Pe...e-Products.html

Here is a good vendor http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ As for regulator there is the R1 or here is another setup that works the same as it doesn't shunt to ground like the stock http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm I am running a Electrosport high output stator with the above R/R from roadster and have no issues with charging.

Have you done the harness ground plug fix. Had a friend that had similar freaky issues, he did the solder fix and all of his symptoms which were similar to yours went away.

Ditto on the unsprung weight, makes suspension much more responsive and able to stay glued to mother terra firma.

Yes but the popped diaphram will cause it to run extremely rich. Check everything listed above, an easy check on the FPR is to pull the vaccum line if its wet the diaphram is going bad.

Pick up a Used Corbin then have it reshaped and recovered. They will modify it and rcover to your specs. It won't be cheap but then they do last a very very long time.

I picked up a set of high intensity leds for my and my bots 99 and 2000 birds off EBay. They are a T10 socket style and were pretty inexpensive and make a huge difference in brightness with out the heat of the incadescent. Just type in high intensity T10. It was single LED not the multiple type. If you put them in be advised they are polarity sensitive. If it doesn't light uop turn it 180 and reinstal.

Aurora They don't do Honda

Plugs sound like a good start. Once they are fuel fowled its pretty much impossible to clear them. My 00 burbles pretty good at an idle but I haven't noted any strong surges.

Here is a great link as well to help you check out the RR as well just to give you peace of mind