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JJMills1993

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Everything posted by JJMills1993

  1. I already ordered the new regulator last night. If that one’s doesn’t work out for any reason I’ll give those a try Hopefully there hasn’t been any more damage to the electrical system then just the two blown headlights. I need to start diagnosing the speedo and tach next.
  2. yeah this is what I do everyday. I spent more hours with a multimeter in my hand then anything else with this bike. Checking and double checking. Was laid down at some point and shows it. Got it drivable, threw a battery in it and two new head lights. Popped both bulbs as soon as I went above idle. Showing 15.6 volts at idle…. guess I’ll need a regulator/rectifier too odometer shows 22k. Speedo isn’t working so not sure how accurate that is. Colorado bike so lives inside for 8 months a year. That coupled with how dry it is here.
  3. Well I was able to get the harness buttoned back up today. Also found another harness issue after and was able to confirm that the bank angle sensor. (New one from used harness and old one were bad). “Hot” wired the bank angle sensor and confirmed voltage at the fuel pump. Also had 4 wires melted together in the right hand control harness. What’s crazy is it tested good continuity through kill switch circuit when on, and none when off. This bike had a broken nose faring support that was the original problem until I went and looked at it. For $300 and 40 man hours I’m not going to complain. After repairing sub harness and reconnecting everything it fired right up. Been sitting since 2020. As for the loom fix. It is immaculate. Both the negative and positive. The yellow is my ground block that is all interconnected as show in pictures. The green was my positive with 4 separate groups connected like Fizzy and Furbird said.
  4. It is surprisingly clean but I am still going to perform the loom fix. I have two “plugs” they appear to be used as a bus bar one for positive and negative connections. There is continuity between all wires in the ground distribution when back probed with the cap on. There was a dead short in the Ecm. After it popping the fuse (6 times for proof of concept) I ordered another one off ebay. It no longer pops the fuse. I have removed and cleaned the frame where that ground is bolted In. Even sanded off some surrounding paint to ensure a good ground.
  5. Yes sorry fuse not relay. Let the hot wiring begin.
  6. The bl/w wire gives power to fuel relay, injectors, PCM and a few others. It receives that power from the engine stop relay being energized and connecting the bl/w to the R/W that comes directly from the PGM-FI relay. At least that’s how I read it, is that incorrect?
  7. Polarity of that wire. It has been tested and should be a ground but I don’t have the ground there to energize the relay
  8. I’m not getting power to the pump because it is not making it through the relay but the relays have tested good. There are two 30amp fuses on my bike. The 30amp at the starter solenoid and another single thirty amp that is not in the main fuse block that runs directly to the engine stop relay. If someone with the same 99-2000 model knows or could pop this relay and tell me me the polarity that would help me greatly.
  9. I have stripped all the tape away and believe I found the junction you are referring to. It is clean and dry. No corrosion.
  10. Not sure which plug you are referring to when you say test plug. I have the harness out and stripped. Im Not seeing any signs of corrosion currently
  11. I’ve been scouring this forum and others for the last few weeks trying to find an answer to my current problem I bought a 2000 model year 1100XX with a known electrical issue. No fuel pump cycle upon turning key and handlebar switch on. I immediately tore it apart to find out somebody had tried to take power from somewhere else and feed pump. The harness was subsequently melted in multiple places. Supply ground for PGM-FI computer. +12v black white wire which comes off the main power supply distribution to the grey ECU connector. I tore the harness apart removed and replaced all burned/exposed electrical wires. Reassembled only to find out that with the ECU plugged in when the key was turned on it would immediately pop the 30amp PGM-FI fuse. With the ECU unplugged no issue. I got my hands on a used ECU from eBay. Plugged it in and it no longer blows the 30amp PGM-FI fuse. I still do not have power to the fuel pump and I believe it to be a ground issue but need some expertise to help guide me here. I have traced and have power through the electrical connections I should until I get to the engine stop relay. I have Voltage and continuity tested ignition and handlebar switch. The power that comes into the engine stop sensor is good. It comes in and out of the tip over sensor under the seat. I do not have a ground to cycle the engine stop relay and can’t pinpoint the issue. I have bench tested the relays all good. Does the ecm provide a ground? Is my new to me ECM bad? The diagram reads I should have 12v at the Bl/W wire at that relay to feed the fuel pump relay. Power is there just not getting from the R/W main power wire through the known good relays to provide power to fuel pump relay. Harness is back off the bike and stripped down to re-Inspect but I haven’t found any connection issues this time. Sorry for the long winded write up. Just looking for someone with more electrical theory education than I have.
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