rockmeupto125

As the others said.......you're fine.

North American machines are/were supplied only with 17/45 gearing. From chatting with other folks, I believe that rear sprockets of either 44 or 45 were available options in some other continents...Australia was the first example I encountered. Gearing doesn't give you more torque.....it simply changes the relationship between the road and engine speed at which that torque is delivered.

Good observation. I've seen nothing in the manuals about correct/incorrect positioning of the rotors. If there were any reason to locate the carriers specifically relative to the hub, there would most probably be a locating tab where they mate. Congratulations on your discovery, and ride safely in your newfound synchronicity. Did you loctite those rotors?

What did you do that would air in the hydraulic lines while changing bars?

If you had the bike in the shop, and they removed the upper cowl or the ram air ducts, they are liable for reinstalling them correctly....in which case it shouldn't cost you anything for them to correct their shoddy labor. I've tried to fix this situation on numerous occasions, and usually end up pulling the cowl partly off. The ram air tubes fit over the inlets on the cowl...and they are deep enough so that it is not easy at all to slip them in place once the cowl is installed. I think the design engineers wanted them to stay in place once installed. Trying to pry them over the lip is risky at best...I have not found a good tool that gives me any confidence I won't crack the fairing. The safest method is to take the mirror off the affected side, slip the fairing forward off the locating tab of the fairing stay and use that extra half inch of clearance to locate the ram air tube correctly. If the ram air tube is not correctly installed, there may be a bit of flex in your front cowl...enough to slightly re-aim the headlight. I wouldn't reset your headlight until the first condition is corrected. However, should you feel the need, here is a picture of the back of the headlight mounted in the cowl just as it sits on your bike. The left knob moves the beam vertically...clockwise = up. The right knob adjusts left and right...clockwise = right. These knobs can be reached from underneath the cowl, and they are very stiff to turn...in order that they hold their position once set. Also consider that if the fairing is misaligned, because it had to be forced into position to compress the ram air duct, that will affect how nearly all the plastic bodywork fits together, and if you disassemble it, you may find it difficult to realign and reinstall unless the ram air tube is correctly repositioned. You should also loosen all the bolts that hold the bodywork along the sides if this is the case so that the plastic can move into the correct position again. Again, this is assuming the shop removed the front cowl and incorrectly reinstalled it. If not, the displacement of the ram air tube existed before you took possession...I've never known one to come out of place once correctly installed unless you move the fairing significantly...the type of significant attributed with striking a tree, or a Buick. Its advisable to have help when you are doing this...unless you have several spare arms.

Pretty sure that's correct. The CBR600 regulator works as well, I'm told, if he's trying tofind a part in a junkyard. If he's just trying to get home, get a fresh charge in the battery, pull the headlight fuse, and he should just make it.

You're fine with the one bolt.

I'm sure the K&N is adequate. But I'm glad you checked here instead of just relying on your local professional.

Genmars is basically a cover for the empty space created by raising the bars, and a pretty cap. They do retain the rotation lock, but I can't say I've ever used, it, in umpteen thousand miles of riding with the clipons raised above the fork tubes.

The easiest way I have found is to take out the bolts that hold it in place, while leaving the slave cylinder attaced to the cover.

That's my middle name...."no one."

Philip........Water Wetter works. But if you're not having any overheating issues now, its a waste of time. Don't be messing with your cooling system a couple weeks before you take off for a cross country trip.

Are you sure its from the front? Did you raise the front and rotate the wheel? Oftentimes as the chain wears there will be a cyclical audio complaint from that area. If you think its the front, use a thin flat-bladed screwdriver to gently pry the pads back from the rotors and see if the noise goes away, keeping in mind that your brakes will then not work for a couple squeezes of the lever......

Spamming is not allowed in this area. Continued attempts will be brought to the attention of your ISP. I say attempts, because this area is now closed to you.

With a 16 tooth front sprocket and the chain adjusted appropriately, the wheelbase will be longer....that is, the rear wheel will sit further back as opposed to the stock 17 tooth front. So yes, that is why the marks rest at the "replace chain" designation even though it is new. Theoretically, the smaller front sprocket will cause your chain to wear faster due to the more acute angle the chain takes around the sprocket. I believe that chains do wear faster with the smaller front sprocket, but its more because of riding styles and the extra workload the chain receives as the operator has fun with the lower gearing. Either way, its not a great concern...perhaps you replace the chain in 14 instead of 18 thousand miles...which means it costs you 9/10ths of a cent per mile instead of 7/10ths of a cent. That's $7 or $9 per thousand miles for those of you calculator challenged. I think the difference is about 3 or 4 hundred rpm. I've never driven 55, so I couldn't tell you, even if I had a 16 tooth sprocket. I'm 71mph at 4000 rpm, IIRC.

Maybe because you're not letting them know? I'm on the original, at 35k. Perhaps its not every bike. They have upgraded the original two times, now. Besides...that and the tool kit rubber are the only things that give our bike character...if not for those things it would be a soulless, pathetic appliance, and not really a motorcycle.

There's an issue with the wiring loom in certain instances. I highly doubt this is one of them. The issue involves the blind connection in the wiring harness on the left side of the bike below the seat where there is a bulge in the main harness. Search will find the pictures and text. Its most common in wet environments...not as an adjunct to storage.

If there doesn't appear to be spark, there are no "known issue"s that would apply. If it cranks over well, has been stored inside, and there's no spark, you're on your own, meaning you start from square one with the repair manual in your hand. My money is still on fuel or critters. If you crank it and smell gas, its critters....if you don't, its a fuel issue. Generally, you'll see critter signs without tearing it apart.....local seeds, stuffing ripped out of the seat, that sort of thing. Checking the spark...work backwards. Start with the plug grounded and look for a spark, use another spark plug to first check the system before you pull his plugs out....any standard plug will work for diagnostics. But its fuel. And if he only put a gallon of fuel in it, that may not have been enough to dilute the aged, semi-flammable gasoline in it. Bear in mind that the worst case (fuel related) is that the entire system is gummed up because of the age of the fuel. Its not probable, but it is possible...in which case you're in for a massive cleaning. In that case, I'd recommend he just sell it. To me. For $1100.

Being as how it was stored, there's little that should be wrong with it. It needs fuel, air, and spark. Spark won't degrade in short periods of time. Air can be stopped by nests and goodies in the airbox. Fuel can gum up and stop the flow through small holes. My initial guess is that the injectors are clogged. You say it cranks over well. If it was MY bike, I'd shoot some ether into the ram air ducts, then crank it. If it stumbles, then you know its probably not getting fuel. Based on that, you can pull the tank, airbox, and the injectors, and send them off to be cleaned. (that can be done, and its hella cheaper than buying new ones. Of course, you've already listened to make sure the fuel pump is running when you turn the key on, so you know its not that. You can change the fuel filter by pulling the pump out of the bottom of the tank...its not hard. I wouldn't bother, though....the filter is meant for large contaminants and probably has no part in this. If you had concerns, you'd pull the supply line off the fuel rail, stick it in a jar, and turn the key on to check your flow volume. Once you get it running, then you can fart around changing oil and fluids. Don't compound the issue.

If you can find one in a junkyard, fine. Otherwise, don't goof around, order a Honda replacement from University Motors or RonAyers. Also......don't know what year yours is, but a late model stator puts out more current, and fits the old ones with some adaptation for the plug.

You can make a little bracket of thin strapping to support the lower cowl, fastening it to one of the oilpan bolts. Welding the oilpan tab on requires that you pull the pan off. I've never seen JB weld or any of those things work. On the other hand, lots of folks don't have that little tab any more, and I've never seen anything terrible come of it.

Below the listing for The Garage is another titled Important/Useful threads. Go there and download the service manual. This will give you information on what oils and spark plugs to use as well as maintainance intervals, fluid capacities, and torque values. From a casual perspective, use any decent oil, synthetic or not, in a viscosity suitable for the temperature where you ride. Use iridium plugs...that's what came in the bike, and they work. The recommended octane will vary depending on what country you are in...you didn't share that with us. Here in the US and Canada, 87 octane seems to work just fine. Fuel injected XX's like yours have a knock sensor that retards the timing in case of preignition, so using to poor a grade of gas should not be a concern for you if you are in North America. Some of the really poor grades in underdeveloped countries have been known to be a problem.

Check your battery voltage and state of charge. If they are normal remove and clean the ground cable connection.

I believe its just important to be sure where you are routing the cable and end, and above all, not to put complete faith in machinery. And if you find any more of them at that price, buy them now. If no one else wants them, I do.

Although those are appropriate, i think those are X-ring chains.