mickcbr1100

Have you checked the actual earth related set up connector, have a look at the loom fixes thread I've just posted

Permanent Fix- This is the hardwire method that you may want to use first rather than last as it is a permanent fix. The block has 20 poles, 19 wires go into it and within the male portion of the block it joins one row of 10 on the one side (all green earth related wires)and 3 lots of 3 on the other side with one unused terminal. Cut the wires off the connector on the 3x3 side first..they are in their own colours so you don't get to mix them up. When I stripped the insulation off the copper wire was black for a fair way up, there isn't really enough length to try and cut them back to perfect shiny copper so I cleaned them with a small wire brush and contact cleaner. Soldered the three wires together then used 2 layers of heatshrink tubing to seal them For the main block of 10 the easiest way is to leave the main thicker earth on its own, solder the remaining 9 into three blocks of three. Used a small piece of heatshrink to hold all of them together then dipped them into a "thimble" full of heated/melted solder, sprayed a bit of water on it to cool it down and ended up with all ten soldered together. Heatshrinked them, covered everthing in silicone grease and taped everything up to the main loom using self amalging rubber tape to seal it. Started first time, FI light hasn't come on and hopefully thats it. I can see that when it does start to go you might as well hardwire it. If damp has got into the terminals it has also got into the actual wire and connections as well which you can't clean up so it is going to go again anyway. Fairly easy to do, just take your time, it can be done on your own as I did but would have been easier to have an extra pair of hands to hold the wires in the right position when you are soldering. I originally did this about 18 months ago and there has been no further problems with it. You should initially check the main frame earth wires, battery connections etc but if you are getting FI light problems with no fault codes there is a good chance this connector is the problem. You will not cause any other damage to the bike by doing it, you are just rectifying a piss poor design fault that was altered on later bikes.

I've seen mention of the following post a few times as the problem seems to making itself known a bit more now outside Europe, so to save anyone the trouble of finding and linking to it I'll post it on here also. The 1999-2000 (FI with Analogue clocks) models are prone to a fault within the loom. Symptoms are the FI flashing or staying steadily on for no apparent reason, the bike can still run but can also cut out without warning. You can also get the FI light coming on when you use other electrical items e.g. indicators, brake lights, horn etc. The problem gets worse with time, cuts out more often and then eventually totally shuts down. The cause is a test block that comes out of the loom and is used when the bike is first built to test the various electrical systems, when done it is just taped up onto the side of the loom never to be used again, you wont find it on any wiring diagram in the official Honda or Haynes manuals. The cure is a loom replacement which is covered by Hondas 5 year loom warranty or do it yourself if the bike is over 5 years old, the cost of a loom runs into the hundreds plus the fitting if you use a stealer. The cost of DIY is next to nothing and these are the two methods you can use, the first one has been about for a while but I bit the bullet and ended up doing the second permanent one after further problems, I checked out the connections with a multimeter first to make sure what wires were connected where. Initial fix - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY Remove seat and rear cowling,take rear tank bolts out and raise the back of the tank a few inches to give you some room to get at various connectors. This is the location of the connector a gob of insultation tape on the loom just in front of the left side rear passenger footpeg. Disconnect the nearby electrical connectors including the main earth wire just under the back of the tank as it will give you a bit more room to work as the loom is pretty tight at this point Cut away the insulation and this is the connector, not a straight through male and female block to join wires up but a dead end 20 pole connector with 19 connected wires within the block. Took the thing apart but it took a bit of persuading as the corrosion was binding it and this is what I ended up with, doesn't show very well but well furred up Used contact cleaner, soft and brass brushes, emery cloth and needle file to clean the male and female contacts and it came up quite good After cleaning, doused both parts in clear plastic ignition sealer, put them back together, covered the outside with it as well, followed by a spray of silicone grease. Taped it all up and instead of putting it under the loom where it becomes the lowest point and collects all the moisture (no wonder it fails) cable tied it to the subframe rail just above the loom making it higher. Put everything back together after spraying and silicon greasing every connector I could see. This worked for me for 3 months then the FI light started coming on again with the brake light, other people have done it and had no further problem to date, I think it all depends how far gone the connector has gone with corrosion when you do it.

A car's alternator runs at it's max at very low revs compared to the bike so it's going to stay steady at anything over a low speed. 13.2V showing on the car though shows it's not a very good gauge, as said 13.2 is just the maximum output of a fully charged 12v battery, it should read higher when the engine is running and power is being used. The bike alternator doesn't reach its maximum output until 5,000rpm and will then fluctuate depending on the load it's coping with, your bike readings are really pretty much spot on.

10 is faulty baro sensor, 18 faulty ignition pulse generator if it is the two seperate codes you're more than likely looking at a wiring fault, probably earth related and given it's a 99 could be the dreaded connector block or if you've got a Power Commander fitted disconnect it and try it without.

Try what Jason says as it could well be dirty/loose earth wire. If you can't cure it and it carries on doing it and as yours is a 99 bike have a look at http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/foru...ead.php?t=16438 and check out the rogue connector. I keep meaning to post it on here so it's readily available but some of the pics are shit. I'm hardwiring another one for someone this weekend so I'll take some better ones and post it then.

and then when all else fails hardwire the multi pin earth test connector. My 2000 FI light had the flickers, coming on with different things like brake lights, indicators etc but also cut out a couple of times like yours, not funny when you're stuck in the outside lane at 80+ when it dies and you have to get back across 3 lanes of traffic. Cleaned the connector first and that lasted 3 months before it started again, now its all soldered up and been no problem for 6+ months. This is how I did it http://www.bikersoracle.com/blackbird/foru...ead.php?t=16438

I'm probably the only one who has on a standard bike and then it wasn't needed as I misread the symptoms, but I changed the plates anyway as I'd already got them. Used EBC plates and uprated springs, about 10k miles ago, no problems and no different to stock other than about half the price. Congratulations if you've got a standard bike you'll be the first with a worn out clutch, how many miles??

You're right -classic gummed up carbs, stale fuel over the lay up has varnished up jets/passages, try Seafoam but be prepared to strip and clean the carbs if it doesn't work.

Won't be the connector/loom problem that only affects 99-00 bikes

"But we know fuck all about them" :roll:

Dave, sorry forgot to mention, the loom IS covered by a 5 year warranty and if you get it confirmed by a dealer you can get it replaced Honda. Depends on the dealer as to how easy, some keep fobbing you off "wait until it dies permanently to confirm it "etc. Couldn't be bothered to mess around so did it myself, least I know it's right.

Sounds like the dreaded 99-00 loom problem. Mine (2000) went a few months ago. Cleaned up the block but it started again last week, so I hardwired it yesterday and problem solved. I reckon it all depends on which half trained techie taped it to the loom after the bike was initially set up as to how long it survives before you start getting the problem. The block doesn't show on any wiring diagram, it's just used to check on the electronics when the bike is first built then just taped up never to be used again so there is no harm in cutting the block off and fixing it properly Another link is http://ixxra.co.uk/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/vie...opic.php?t=2816

The 99-00 loom fault seems to be really taking effect now, must have been over 20 bikes I've heard of this year, including mine :sad: and that's just the tip of the iceberg no doubt. You can't find that block on any wiring diagram in the official Honda or Haynes manuals. Recently found out that it's just used to plug in and check the electronics when it's built then that's it, it's of no further use and they just tape it up, piss poorly of course, to the main loom. 16 of the 19 wires that go into it are earth related so it's no wonder it causes problems all over the bike when it starts to corrode.