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Everything posted by superhawk996
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Smart thinking. I always know that I'm smart enough and good enough to keep it from happening, but it seems that brake fluid is a paint magnet and the harder one tries to keep them apart the higher the likelihood they'll meet. Target fixation perhaps. When I plan it out and cover everything and have a hose ready, no spills. If I take the cover screws off without covering up it's almost a guarantee that the shit will explosively spray everywhere.
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I don't know what the manual states. I'd start at the closest nipple and work down the line following my previous post.
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Some type of suction device makes it pretty quick & easy, if you don't have one you can let gravity do the work for you. Suck the old fluid out of the master or let it drain as low as possible on the first nipple. Refill and drain 'till fresh fluid is coming out, then move on to the next nipple in the line while regularly checking that the master doesn't go empty. Gravity is slower than pumping but easier and less likely to make a mess. If fluid gets on paint don't wipe, immediately rinse with water; having a hose nearby and ready is a good idea. Plastic and some other stuff can be hurt too so rinse those if they get any fluid. Dot 5 isn't hygroscopic, sounds great 'till water gets in and settles to the lowest point. Since the fluid won't absorb it the only way to get it out is to disassemble the calipers or whatever it gets into. With dot 3 & 4 water stays in suspension and flushing removes it. That said, I've never flushed any of my vehicles unless the fluid looks shitty and have never had a problem. Every once in a while it comes to mind and I think "I should do this" then I go on to something else. Too many vehicles, not enough time/fucks to give. Some day I might pick up a gallon and dedicate a day to doing the fleet.
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Damn, I'd forgotten the stocker does that. Our freeways are pretty shitty overall and the cement ones have nasty bumps where the slabs meet, that constant rhythmic bumping sucks. Beats on the spine, shakes your head/helmet... There are some spots and speeds where it still does it, but not as bad. Over long bumps and dips if feels like it's tighter, moves less and doesn't bottom, on the little sharp bumps it feels softer. I'm guessing it has more low speed dampening and less high speed, something that good shocks often achieve. It looks like it has used the bump stop, but not in a while as it has a good dust layer. I'm only about 175#, carry minimal luggage, and no passengers. I still have the stock shock and get curios to compare, but haven't been curious enough to hassle with swapping. Edit: Next time you're in SoCal come give it a feel.
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I'd shoot some degreaser in before the water and let it soak for a bit, any left over oil in there is gonna hold on to the sand and be hard to remove. If it's possible to get a bottle brush in there I'd do it. Spraying and flushing won't get it all out unless there's a lot of flow or pressure put though it and it's likely that you can't achieve that. If the oil pump is that minimal it would seem like something to modify while it's apart. Maybe the issue is with people adding a filter before the pump and starving it.-? They push better than they pull. It could also be an issue with filters draining when parked and oil starving that way. You can add a filter in the return line, it's done on a lot of old bikes. Map is the name coming to mind. Filtered before or after it goes through the engine is better than not at all.
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I've ridden stock vs. Penske back to back and the Penske is pretty bitchen. Not enough for my cheap ass to pony up the Penske $, but I'm sure glad my current XX has one.
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Washing it out with solvent should get it out, but I'd install a filter if possible. If 'slinger filtration' means a centrifuge they can be very effective, but I'd still want a filter.
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You should add WTB to the title so that someone with one to sell would be more likely to chime in. If yours just has bad vinyl you can get it recovered, I think I paid around $40 at an auto upholstery shop last time. There are also places that'll do custom comfort stuff like gel inserts and different foam.
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Dig those old 2 strokes you have Muddy. Didn't even know they made a RZ250 'till now. I second Redxx, post some pics of them old smokers.
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The right plastic and gas don't concern me. Putting that plastic fitting where a lot of heat will be is a concern. Cars have many plastic fuel fittings that last forever, but none are put in the engine compartment as far as I can recall. Putting one on an old school bike's petcock out in the wind would probably be ok. The bird's tank is shielded from engine heat but not enough for me to fully trust plastic, I'd go metal.
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The air jets rarely clog, but they lead to the fuel jets so spraying into the air jets can clear the fuel jets.
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Carb clean into the airbox won't help the carbs and can hurt the motor. Carb clean directly into the air jets can sometimes clear the jets.
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Gold Wing cover and cup holder
superhawk996 replied to John01XX's topic in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
I'll take them for my Moto Guzzi so call it sold unless someone else needs them for a Wing as they were made for. -
And change the oil to get the gas out if any did make it in.
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I can't match TOXXIC's offer, especially with the daughter offer, that's quite generous. Odd that the idle circuit works, unless it only runs on the choke then that's pretty normal. A simple attempt would be to drain the bowls and fill them with spray carb clean and let sit. You should be able to get easy access to the drain screws at the bottom of the bowls, or just let it idle 'till it runs out. Most likely you'll have to remove the bowls & jets and clean them out. If the jets are super plugged and the pressure of the carb clean won't blow them out take a piece of electrical wire, pull a strand and use that to poke out the jets. The strand has to be small enough to fit in the jet hole. Sometimes you'll have to hold a little pressure on the wire and spin the jet to 'drill' through the gunk. The copper wire is soft enough to not hurt the jets. JIC screwdrivers are your friend, phillips screwdrivers on those JIC screws are your enemy. Sometimes it'll work, but if the screws are stuck don't press your luck with a phillips, once the heads are damaged it just gets worse. If there's space I often use small vise-grips to break them loose then screwdriver, the grip & torque of pliers makes it easy to break them loose. No need to replace the hoses unless they're messed up, sitting doesn't generally hurt them.
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There's a filter in the tank. You could try giving the bowls a few taps with something, might cure the stuck float. I usually only see stuck floats when something sits a long time and a few taps usually fixes them, your case is different so it may not work, but it's an easy thing to try.
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It's a return, #9. As far as whether it'll be a problem, all depends on how much oil needs to flow through it. Looks like you'd have to drop the pan to replace it.
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The picture shows the rear center driven by the pedal and the outers driven by the third master, backwards of what's described.
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Good thought on the bugs, but the only place I can think that they'd effect the engine would be the air box/intake hole and that would be most noticeable under power when the air demand is highest.
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Does it become uselessly mushy from just sitting or only while riding? If only when riding it could be a warped rotor pushing the pads back, or maybe a caliper mounting issue. If it does it just sitting I would start by checking to make sure there's not a vacuum in the reservoir. Remove the fill cap and diaphragm, pump up the brake, close it up, then see.
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Look at the hose, hoses if still linked, while pressing the pedal just to make sure it's not defective and bulging somewhere. Did it suddenly get mushy or slowly deteriorate? Is it uselessly mushy or just a little soft? Still linked? Did you do any adjusting to the pedal linkage when you did the hoses?
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It's rare to have just a mushy pedal from a bad master. Maybe if the cylinder is pitted or otherwise damaged just in the first part of engagement and that cylinder damage hasn't damaged the seals...unlikely. You could have air in the master which can sometimes be hard to get out. Pressing the caliper pistons in will usually do it. Also, leave the cap loose 'till you pump the pistons back out so you don't make a vacuum in the reservoir. You might have an issue with the linked system but I haven't had one in so long I don't remember the plumbing.
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I have that same system and same conundrum with noise, but I don't find it loud compared to other aftermarket systems. If not for the weight loss and performance gain I'd go right back to stock, but it's a tough battle for me. My certified and calibrated assometer registered a solid power gain above 5-6k and a bit of a loss below 4k. I don't have any hands on with your carb thoughts, but they sound solid and what I'd probably do if nothing better came about. Jet kits...I'm kinda tossed on them. They generally seem to be overly rich. I planned on installing a tuner on mine ('01) just haven't gotten 'round to it. "After some ride time I think midrange actually improved." This makes no sense as there's nothing about the bike that would adapt to the exhaust system so it's probably just your feel. I would expect it to have more power in the mid-upper range as mine did when I went to the RS3, but yours is a different bike. When I gutted the muffler on my Duc I expected a similar response, less bottom end and more top. I was shocked when it started quicker and idled better both hot and cold. It also seemed to have more power throughout the range.
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My first thoughts are oil or an epoxy, but I don't know shit about this stuff.
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Also consider checking the law if you wanna be compliant. In the US there are ordinances and/or zoning rules on height, flag size, location, etc. and you could be fined and/or forced to remove it if it's not compliant. In my area it requires a complaint to get looked at, but in some places the enforcement people drive around looking for stuff.