superhawk996

How many miles and what weight of rider was the suspension set up for?

I've seen all kinds of parking passes and similar stickers left on cars for years after they were expired/not being used.

I had been thinking about listing it and the F-150 not being able to decide which to sell, figured I'd let the decision happen for me. I just got a call from my buddy's secretary who's interested in the 150. Hmmm.

😆 I looked just long enough for that to start making sense, hopefully it doesn't stick to my brain.

I walked out the back door and remembered why I learned to ignore them. Up close they kinda piss me off. From the patio lounger they look ok, kinda cool.

If that has happened it implies a charging issue or bad connection.

Grew on me= they stopped being near the top of the 'must do' list and fell onto the ignore list.

They grew on me to some degree, but I agree.

Time will tell. It might be priced too high, hard to tell with these things. A decent 4x4 with 250ish thousand will get over $20k. There's a handful of people that don't want 4wd and will actually pay more for it, but with all the 7.3 trucks 4x4 seems to be where the demand is. Having ridden in both, if you don't need 4x4 the difference in ride comfort definitely makes the RWD the better choice, but it's not as cool as riding high in a lifted toy. A buddy's 2002 7.3 F-250 was recently stolen and recovered with a lot of damage, repair estimate over $12k, I figured they'd total it. The insurance company is paying the repair, they valued the truck at around $25k.

🙂 I got em from some Icy Prick. They've faded a bit, but still hangin in there.

I hadn't considered shock/vibration, maybe that's what's been killing them. If so, AGM would do better. Optima style probably can't get fucked up without destroying the case. Technically an AGM should have a charging system designed for it, but it doesn't seem to really matter.

I'm glad it has the red piping to eliminate the temptation.

I'm also interested in what you think of my ad. I'm pretty sure I give too much information. While it seems retarded to me, it appears that people with shitty uninformative ads do better. There's been a few instance of not giving a fuck where I posted what I thought was a retarded ad and got hits right away while my more detailed ads got nothing.

WTF is it with people posting photos of stuff covered in water/soap suds? To me that screams lazy/impatient and/or trying to disguise shittyness. The garage photo of it looks ok, but I'd still wonder why the other photo was taken mid washing.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/d/hacienda-heights-2002-ford-excursion/7368663663.html The unknown oil leak I think is from between the front cover and engine block, if so it's a cheap part and a lot of hours of work. To do it by the book you have to pull the engine out and remove the oil pan, but many have done the 'in frame' repair on front cover jobs. Still a fairly big job. I lightly investigated it and truly didn't want to know for sure because it would bother me. Back when I was running in an Explorer group there were a couple 2wd guys with good positractions and lockers that could run with the stock and mildly built 4x4s, but that's a different animal and it all depends on what you're doing. I've driven it to camping/shooting spots, even with a small trailer, but nothing crazy. And it has small highway tread tires that won't help much off-road. If your challenge will be mud, ice, or sand 2wd might not work. If the challenge will be twisty stuff on dirt/rocks then you might be fine with more aggressive tires and either skill/finesse or a locker or good limited slip. It has the stock limited slip and it works well, but it might not be up to the task.

2002 Excursion Limited 2 WD 7.3. Only has a half million miles! Actually it's just under 442k so still like new. It's on CL for $13k, might wheel & deal with a member. If someone's interested I'll share details.

Die Hards were good a very long time ago, then went to shit. Haven't seen one in many years so no idea how they are today. Interstate has a strong following, in my experience they kinda suck. I use Walmart and Oreilly house brand and have had good luck with both. I don't know why battery love/hate is so mixed. Maybe different areas get different batteries with the same name, or just people's luck and/or prejudice. Check your tractor's charging system to make sure it's not killing them. If it sits for long periods that could be what's killing them and charging between uses should help.

If that was a handheld tester then it probably did load. If it was the big machine in the store it's a charger so it would have a fan, and it might also do load testing. A few years ago I took a pair of dead batteries to Oreilly and they passed their test, not a load tester. The batteries were under warranty but they wouldn't replace them because their machine said they were good. I did more tests to be sure, took them back, and luckily they took my word for it that they were dead so I got new ones. I also had one that would self-discharge that passed their test. I offered to leave it over night for them to re-test in the morning, they took my word for it. Little bonuses of being well known there. My big Midtronics analyzer does a combination of loading, charging, and resting while analyzing, it takes a few minutes to give a result. Unless the battery is super fucked then it quickly tells you so. My handheld only does inductive testing and only takes a few seconds. None of the inductive testers I've seen have any cooling because they don't create heat, they're just a closed plastic box. Load testers create lots of heat that has to get out.

Posted at the same time, I don't thing they use load testers.

I've never seen a battery that held voltage and passed a load test that had a problem. I have had a few bad ones that passed the test with a non-load inductive battery analyzer, load tester proved they were shot. Most parts stores don't load test, they use the inductive testers only, unless things have changed in the last several months.

Jumper cables to a car battery can help the diagnosis, but it's not as foolproof as dropping in a known good battery.

It started the bike twice in a row, with a slight hesitation the second time, and the voltage was very good the next day...suspicious. That has me leaning towards a bad connection which could be the cables or inside the battery. Not common, but I've had a few batteries that had internal connection issues. Press/tweak on the terminal and it would make/break the connection.

Too bad you don't have the left side, that's the one I really really want. Just fucking with you.

One of my friends went through this with his car randomly having battery issues with a 'good' battery. He finally replaced it against my advice and that cured it. I took his 'bad' battery and used it for a few years 'till it actually died. He had a bad connection at a battery terminal that got cleaned up while replacing the battery. Months later when I told him I was still using his 'dead' battery he was in disbelief. I've had several customers have 'battery issues' that were merely connection issues. It should be impossible for a connection to flow 200 amps to the starter and not allow the charging current in, it happens. Which reminded me that I forgot to add "check the battery connections thoroughly" to my previous post to Dotetcher

Coil?