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demon

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Everything posted by demon

  1. Lowering LInk on EBAY Those will do in a pinch, but the one made by Speedlink is better. It takes your factory link bearings instead of the brass incerts and is more adjustable.
  2. demon

    GP Shift

    I had some rearsets that would let you do the GP shift pattern. I never could get used to it so I went back to regular. I got them off of Joe and sold them to JasonW. I'll try and remember the name. RAASK was the name of them. They were built real good. They used linkage to move the shifter shaft. You could put the arm on the top or bottom of the shaft to go from regular shift to GP shift.
  3. If you want to do it to get your bike lower, EliXXiR has the RC forks on his. Get in touch with him and he'll probably let you know exactly what you'll need. With the inverted forks, you can actually lower the bike more than if you kept the stock setup for drag racing. It involves a specially made upper tripple clamp though and it would have to be machined just for you. I think Dean (elixxir) has his about 2" off the ground.
  4. I think that there's been a few people that have put RC51 forks on their birds. It's a quite involved swap though, as you have to change your tripples, clip-ons, brakes, wheels, brake lines, delink the rear brakes, new front fender, changing your electrical switches, changing your throttle, etc. It would be alot of work and probably alot of coin to get it done properly.
  5. demon

    sound

    They are quite loud with any cans on them aren't they. In my old house, there was a Harley guy about 3 houses away. I fired mine up one day without the cans on it and he came over. He was like WTF was that?? His Harley with straight pipes didn't even come close to the noise the bird was singing out.
  6. I'll have to put my vote in for the Blueflames. You can make them a little bit louder than stock with the plugs and baffles in. With the baffles and plugs out, they sound like the D&D's at low RPM with a low tone and they keep that sound without getting too loud or raspy. You can play with the different combination of baffles or plugs and tune the sound to what you want from quiet to loud.
  7. +1 on the TJ fronts. I run a 16 tooth TJ front and it does whine a little, but it holds up great. I have an aluminum AFAM on the rear and it still looks good.
  8. Well, he runs a PC2 and a PC3 like I said. He has stretched it 8" and has lowered it. He runs an Ohlins rear shock that was custom setup for drag racing for him. He runs a 2 stage Nitrous setup with 40 horsepower on the first stage and 80 on the second stage. The last time I talked to him, he was just using the first stage and holding off on the second unless it was close on the big end. He runs an EFR Racing lockup clutch and a Micky Thompson MCR2 rear tire. He's got a couple sprocket combinations that he can change when running the 1/8th or 1/4 mile. He's got an air shifter with integrated ignition kill for button shifting. An extended tailsection and fuel cell just like Stotz runs graces the bike as well. I'm probably forgetting a bunch of stuff, but that's it in a nutshell. He's spent countless hours and trips to the track tuning it. I've ridden this bike when is still saw street duty before he stretched it. When it was still stock, I raced him several times. He'd take me off the line every time, but I'd reel him back in and be dead even with him in the 1/8th and pass him in the 1/4.
  9. That's got to be Brian. I haven't seen it since he repainted it. He races in Hunstville all the time and is one of the few Honda drag racers around here. He runs the 2 stage nitrous with 120 total HP and has a PC3 and a PC2 on that bike. He used the PC3 for fuel control and the PC2 for spark control. He did all the work to the bike and is a real good guy.
  10. Yea, most engines will tolerate more than you'd think. Kent Stotz runs a stock bottom end with his 500+HP turbocharged monster. Nitrous, when used properly, won't hurt much. If you spray 250Hp worth of nitrous in an engine that wasn't built for it, then you're asking for trouble. If you loose your fuel solenoid, plug a line, etc..... to upset the A?F ratio when spraying, that's when bad things happen. If everything is working right, the only thing it'll do is make more power within the limits of the engine.
  11. That bike looks awfully familiar to me. Did you talk to him much? Is his name Brian?
  12. I've seen burnt pistons, bent rods, and warped heads from nitrous.
  13. Y'all are overlooking one real good place to mount your bottle. Pull your fuel tank up. Look down into that cavernous hole in front of the shock. Mount the bottle up with the siphon tube facing rearward. You might want to wrap the bottle with heat insulation to regulate the temp and not get a pressure rise. Don't tell me it won't fit. I've seen an 02 bird with one mounted in just that spot. If you want to be sneaky, cover it with something black and then hide your nitrous line inside some of that black plastic electrical wiring cover. Nobody looks under the fuel tank for a bottle. Rewire your horn button to activate the nitrous relay. If you're going to stretch the bike, mount the bottle on the swingarm right behind the shock. You can make a bracket to hold the bottle in the space where your rear tire used to be. You can run a dry shot on an injected bike because of the air temp sensor. If you've got a power commander, you can richen up the fuel from say 7K up at 100% throttle opening. Leave the settings alone for the rest of the map below 100% throttle because you won't spray unless WOT and you won't notice anthing different on normal rides. On a carbed bike, jet your carbs rich if you don't want a wet system. If you jet your carbs rich, you won't have as much power when not spraying because your A/F ratio will be off. Any way you look at it, you'll probably be better off with a wet system and an ignition retard unit.
  14. I cut an inch out of mine near the foot to lower it and welded the foot back on. For when the bike's not lowered, I drilled a hole in the foot and added a spacer. Personally, I wouldn't bother with the cutting and welding just to increase the length. Drill a hole in the foot, make a spacer of your liking, bolt it up using taper headed bolts and countersink the hole on the bottom to make the bolt flush. Works like a charm and doesn't make any weak spots in the sidestand.
  15. +1 for the speedlink. It us FULLY adjustable with the ability to raise over stock height as well as lowering. If you take a 15/16" wrench with you to the track, you can adjust it in a minute or two without having to take any bolts or anything out. Just back off the rear nut and tighten the front nut to the rear section of link when you get your desired height. Raising is just the opposite, loosen off the front nut and tighten the rear till it's as high as you want it. Another thing is that you press out your needle bearings out of your old dogbone and put them into the speedlink. You might just buy new bearings if you want 2 complete units. One tip though, if you plan on keeping your centerstand, you'll have to cut some of the threaded rod off as it hits the stand's cross bar. It'll still lower the bike 2-3 inches with it cut but will completely slam the bike with it full length. I've got pictures at home with it low enough to stop a baseball from rolling under it before I cut the rod to let me keep the centerstand.
  16. I've removed the "bug catcher" grills in the front of mine. Black silicone your tubes to the box and stop up the drain holes for every bit of that HP giving pressure.
  17. How many miles on it? You could have a stuck float in one or more carbs You could have knocked sediment loose in said carbs and it's plugging up your jets You could have let it sit on it's side long enough for oil to get into your cylinder or cylinders. When you tipped the bike back up, the oil wasn't on the plug and it started fine. Once going, the plug or plugs started oil fouling. This would be my bet.
  18. demon

    Pouring Cement

    You're still 6 months late to the party.
  19. I've got a holeshot. It dosen't use any kind of motor and cable. It has a switch that you mount down by the shifter and attaches to the shifter arm with a spring. It is basically an ignition kill that you can set the amount of "down time" to take the pressure off the transmission to shift it. It works good, but my switch went bad and I haven't replaced it.
  20. I just use some bolts. They last longer. I hate those plastic pop-ins.
  21. +1 The clutch wasn't designed for the weight and traction of a car. You'll probably have to get a new set of clutches, stronger springs and/or a lockup clutch set. MRE makes a nice lockup clutch with the centrifugal weights that puts more pressure as the RPM's rise.
  22. The injected factory header is tuned for more low end torque. The carbed factory header is tuned for more mid-range and top end power. It's in the cylinder pairings. The injected header pairs 1-3 and 2-4 for the first collector then merges the two collectors together. The carbed header pairs 1-2 and 3-4 for the first collector then merges the two collectors together. I think I'm correct with the primary header collector numbers, but might be off. I know that they're paired differently and the carbed has a more definate "hit" at 7K compared with the injected header.
  23. Yep, sorry Chris, I was too lazy to read that whole quote
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