Check your valve timing again, that's the main thing you disturbed, doe's not have to be off much for the valve to just kiss the piston, then at 3000 the lead an lag of the valves make it go away. Just a thought.
Any one have a VFR, going to do an oil & filter change, which panel do I remove L or R , just did one on the Bird and pulled the R/side, worked out ok but would have been better pulling L/side. Thanks Rob
Just found a cheep source for batteries, I have ordered two one for the Bird and one for the VFR, AGM batteries, is yet have nothing to report on them. www.batterysharks.com emailed them with models and they got right back to me.
You are half way there, if you have the black lead of the tester to the frame, and check the wires from the stator you are testing them for a short to ground. If you test each wire against each wire (with the tester clipped on one wire and then probe one other wire) you are checking for an open circuit in the field windings of the stator. After you installed the new stator and hooked all the wiring back up did you still have a no charge condition??
Did you start the nut with your fingers? It should not be nice and tight it should thread up to the nylock very easerly (nylock on outside) then tighten down with wrench till tight, I think you may have cross threaded it or nut and bolt have different thread.
I think that pulling the inner valve springs (if you have them) is more for racing engines. Yes you can pump up the cylinder with compressed air to remove the valve springs (done it many times) what was worn out on the old camshaft?
EVLXX What oil did you use after replacing the cam shaft (I know you must have done a full oil & filter change) I would think all of todays oils would be suitable for a 1979 truck, sounds a little funny to me.