ActionStarCBRxx

I was curious about the pretty green of the Honda fluid and wondered why it was so "special". So I am resurecting this thread for others to see.

Thanks Zero... It goes back together just fine and everything is a tight fit. Its just odd that there is a 10x50 collar that pushes the bolt out that much further. I put the radiator in and out two or three times thinking it was odd. So it was a waste of time because I kept questioning myself. The part numbers are 20 and 24.

I never noticed this before... I am took the radiator off to straighten out the fins and clear out the mini rock debris (along with changing out all the hoses and thermostat). Its been about a month now and I wasnt sure how it went back together. The book isnt much help in showing the diminsions... so I looked at RonAyers site and they show the collar sticking out (way out) of where the bolt actually tightens down. Why is that?? How does it affectively support the radiator with such a long extension? Link to RonAyers http://www.ronayers.com/RADIATOR-C183134.aspx part number 20/24. Linky To RonAyers.com Thanks! Kelly

Excellent Thanks! Is there a trick to getting the brushes back on? I was tempted to undo the coiled springs... but then I was worried I would never get it back on. The brushes are a bugger to get all four on at the same time. I worked on them for an hour at the kitchen table before giving up.

Thank you gentleman for the ideas. I apologize for not replying sooner... but I havent had much time to work on the bike. I unplugged everything as suggested and execpt for the starter and it was still blowing the main fuse. I took the starter off and found that there was continuity between the brush post (where the cable connects) and the outer cover. I went ahead and ordered another starter at this point from ebay. That starter arrived and it too showed continuity between the post and the outer cover. So I took my starter apart and found that the brushes that connect to the c shaped thing are 3.5mm. The book states that the service level are 4.5mm. Also the rubber that is the first layer between the brush terminal post and the outer case was worn and brittle. So that explains the continuity between the post and the case. I did not have any ugly burn marks on the commutaror bars and there was no continuity from the commutaror bars to the the armature shaft. So it looks like the shaft is still good. The question now is the starter rebuildable by replacing the rubber/insulaters/washers on the brush terminal post and replacing the four brushes? Thanks! Kelly

A few months back my bike burned up the connectors to the main fuse. I decided to replace the wire harness and take care of several issues at once that I had neglected. (Oil/ dash lights and back dash/ CCT / Tyres). I did replace the main fuse/Solenoid when I did the wire-harness as well. So there are no cuts in this harness. I decided to replace the wiring harness to make sure I had a clean start. I finally got the new harness in but the bike still blows the main fuse as soon as I turn the key to the on position. I do know that the ignition is always defaulted to on and the kick stand was down. I have only attempted turn the bike on the one time since the issue started a few months back. I did a brief look at the manual and there is a reference to all the components that are in that starting loop. IF I read it correctly it was the ignition switch, the kickstand and the starter (I dont recall if the fuel pump was in that loop?). So I know I need to grab the voltmeter and go to work there. Is it possible that when the plug burned that some other component was shorted and is causing this? Which would be the most likely culprit to start with? Correct me if I am wrong... but is whats happening is that something that is hot is either touching a ground, or a relay/component is allowing electricity to pass across wires that should be grounded? So what I would see when testing continuity (without power to battery) is a situation where there should be continuity but it wont be there or the opposite, there should not be continuity but there is?

I was going to say Harbor Freight Press... the 12 ton for $99. But I don't know if the tire/wheel will fit between the two side bars? I have that one and use it quite a bit... but I haven't tried to put a motorcycle rim/tire in there.

PM Sent with small parts list for 97.

Can you all reply back with a few dealers that you have had good experience with and parts that are good price? Looking for original blackbird parts like starter solenoid, cooling system and dash parts. I like Ron Ayers for their micro fiche but their parts always seem as high as local dealers here. I used to buy a lot of parts from Zanotti Motors but I haven't had a response from them in three days. I have a grocery list of part numbers from the micro fiche, but I need a dealer to double check the numbers... as some of the parts I want have three part numbers for the same part description. Then I need them to place the order for me. So I need some human intervention from the dealership. Thanks! Kelly

WD-40 has always been my go to for almost everything on the bike. There is a lot of talk about WD-40 washing out the oil in the X/O rings since its a penetrating fluid. So I thought I would give diesel a try. On the chain and sprocket area the diesel really made wiping the nasty build up super easy. I was really surprised that it worked so well on the under tail! I plan on soaking the chain for a few days in the heavy 80/90 gear oil.

I know that there are two camps here... the camp that cleans the bike meticulously and the other camp that believes grime and dirt build character! :icon_silenced: A buddy of mine that rides dirt bikes was always a believer in using diesel to clean bikes (chains sprockets grim dirt etc) I have never used diesel until tonight. Normally I use Honda polish or Plexus to clean the bike. Rarely do I ever use water (unless it rains). I fall in the meticulous camp... either my bike is really clean or super busy because I am behind on maintenance and haven't had time to fix/clean. This week I burnt the main fuse which basically put the bike down. So now I start my grocery list of maintenance on the bike that I have neglected for the past 6 months. Tires/oil/CCT/dash lights etc. I really hate working on a dirty bike so I usually clean everything as I go along. This time since I have been riding the bike more in the adverse weather (cold/snow/rain/hot sun) the bike is really dirty. Since the tires on my list, then I usually break the chain and soak it in 80/90 oil. This time the chain was just nasty. The front sprocket had a perfect mixture for lapping values (dirt and grease in a fine thick powder!)... so I broke out the diesel and soaked the chain in it. The dirt and grime literally falls off. I decide to put some diesel on a rag and wipe down the under tail. The nastyness that your tire flips up into the under tail... the diesel just wiped the dirt off!! Then I used the rag and cleaned out around the front sprocket and all that dirt wiped off!! I mean it just wipes off and falls in a clump on the floor! WOW. After I wiped everything off I went back with Honda Polish and wiped the diesel off everything! WOW like showroom clean! Is there any ill side effects of using diesel on the bike and following up with a cleaning polish like Honda Polish or Plexus? Any reason why you couldn't put that stuff in a spray bottle and use it in the engine compartment of a car or truck to get all the road grime off? It looks like its safe on rubber since fuel lines on my diesel truck are rubber? Any thoughts?

I should have specified I had a 97. It has a red cap/top on it. It's the fusable link between the battery and the starter. In the link to RonAyers its would be where the 20 amp fuse for #27 goes. I think there are six wires total... two in the bottom part of the plug and four in the top half? I don't have it in front of me. I will have my wife send me a picture and I will post it.

I have a short somewhere on my bike. It fried my master fuse link. In order to get at the fuse I had to use a screw driver to pry apart the connectors (top cap with fuse from bottom). Since it was semi melted and brittle I ruined the top/cap/lid and the plastic separating the four wires. I don't see this part separate in the micro fiche at Ron Ayers.com. It looks like they want you to buy the whole wiring harness. RonAyers.com I know I can buy a new wiring harness from the dealer, or a used one from ebay for half the price. Do you think if I had enough of a short to cook the master fuse that I should be worrying about the wire integrity and should opt for a new harness? Or would a used harness work or just buy a used and cut the master fuse off and wire it in place using soldier? Does anyone have a butchered harness here on the CBR forum that still has the master fuse? I don't know the cause of the short yet. I suspect it may be the dash lights as they have been blinking on and off for a month now and finally no longer come on. I pulled the fairings yesterday after work and will start trying to hunt down the cause. Edit for picture of master fuse Thanks! Kelly

Just an FYI... Motorcycle Superstore (motorcycle-superstore.com) has a sale on the Bridgestone Tires - 43% off. Discount code is M71-Bridgestone-5 Also included in that is free shipping. So I just picked up a pair of BT-023 Battlax Sport Touring tires. I have always run Michelin's PP's. I don't get but a year out of them! It will be good to see how these run.

+1 early set, maybe two years since bought. If you want, I will open and shoot some pictures, but only if you want it.. Thanks Stan... I am going to pass. I would rather go back with the factory Honda parts. I don't have the patience and I would mess this up trying to get the fit to be perfect. I apologize... I thought this was genuine Honda. Kelly