CBRFanatic

What the hell....my comments for whatever it's worth... It's not a dino oil vs synthetic issue. It's as others have said, the additives like moly that are in some oil formulations So you're saying that the covalent bond between two carbon atoms in synthetic oil is somehow stronger than in dino oil? Wrong... for basic chemistry reasons. Synthetic oil (highly refined dino or newly synthesizedsynthesized) just has a more consistant length of carbon chain in it ande less inpurities than regularly refined dino oil. Right, but more carbon chains of a consistant length and less inpurities can result in longer oil change intervals, right? Nothing about synthetic specifically, but as others have said, an additive like moly will "coat" or "fill" those areas and other surfaces resulting in less available friction. I had an old '79 Kaw KX650 that I used an "energy conserving" oil in by mistake. After a few miles, I noticed the clutch slipping and after some research, thought it mught be because of the oil. I changed back to a non-energy conserving oil and it took a few thousand miles and another oil change before the clutch slippage went away. I should also mention that the oil changes were the only thing that I had done to the bike during this time. No other maintenance or repair was performed. Sure, now take that road and put a layer of paint on it so that all the "hills and valleys" are filled in. That's roughly analygous to the effects of "moly". But then again, this IS an oil thread...

Anyone in the SE Wisconsin area that could lend me a chain tool? I need to change the chain and sprockets before the WiXX meet and I'm too cheap to buy one. Alternatively, if someone would be willing to send me one, I'll reimburse the shipping and buy you a drink if we ever meet in person. Also, I promise NOT to use it to remove the old chain (it's shot, so I'm just going to cut it off) and I'll return it right away! Thanks,

Thanks for all the replies! Fortunately, my decision has been but off indefinately. Yesterday, I had a contractor over to replace the exterior aluminum window trim that was damaged by hail, and when he took off the old trim, the wood window frame underneath was completely rotted out. It seem the contractor used by the previous owner had installed the windows and trim incorrrectly 6 years ago; allowing water to get behind and cause major damage. With 15 windows to repair/replace in my house, the money I would have spent on luggage has evaporated. In the mean time, I'll just find some tape to protect the bike and use my soft bags. If/when I do get a few extra bucks, I've decided to go with the SW-motech toprack and hopefully find a Givi topcase off ebay. Or, I'll just give that cheap JC Whitney case a try. Thanks again!

Thanks! I will definately poke around over there and see what they have to say. I've seen some references to Kappa luggage, but it seems that there are no US distributors that I coud find (except one in the Bahamas). From what I've read, they are a subsidiary of Givi and are basically the same, but at a lower cost. Anyone have any more info regarding this??

I think you should sell the Chase Harper set to me (cheap) and buy the Givi's for yourself !! I have plenty of the Vinyl tape to put on the plastics when traveling John01XX What kind of tape are you guys talking about? Like that clear stuff advertised as headlight protection film? I 'm pretty sure you're not refering to clar packing tape, right? I seem to recall from an earlier thread that someone was using a black or clear stuff someone was using as a make your own tank protector. And that they bought it in sheets and cut out thier own shapes to fit the profile of the tank... not sure if this was magnetic or not... This would definately be the cheapest answer to my luggage question. I do like my current setup except for two things. One is that they are not lockable and the other is that they are not waterproof. However, since I don't have the cash for anything else I may have to live with this until I can scrape up enough money to switch. Thanks for the suggestions!

Thanks for the information guys! Based on some of your responses, a lot of you seem to like the soft luggage. I wouldn't mind keeping the chase harper soft bags I am currently using if I could find a way of mounting them so they didn't scratch the hell out of the plastic. The setup is this: two straps connect the bags across the rear seat and each bag is anchored to rear footpeg bracket and also connected to each other by the taillight. During installation and during trips, the bags are in contact wiht the plastic under the seat and have rubbed scratches in my CBR1K. Not acceptable on the XX! During some of my initail searches, I thought the tubular frame of the five-stars rack would keep the soft bags extended away from the bike preventing scratching. However, since I didn't see it listed anywhere, I emailed a couple of vendors only to find out that it is not made anymore. I'm not sure if the SW motech side rack (being flat and not tubular) would cause any problems with the connecting straps between the bags. The last thing I'd want is to have them cut through a connecting strap during a long trip. Hence, my "leaning toward" givi hard bags. If there is another rack system that you guys know of that may work with my current soft bags, I'm all ears... after all, it would be the least expensive option.

You're right, the beetle bags are WAY too expensive for my limited budget. Pretty nice, though. I did a quick search and found that the ventura are soft bags. Not that soft bags are a bad thing, that's the only type I've ever had. I'm just thinking that since I get to start over from scratch with this touring setup, I'd considering a waterproof(?) hardbag system to avoid having to double garbage bag all my clothes, etc. The Givi's are waterproof, right? Or is it still advisable to pack in plastic bags?

Background: I have a set of chase harper soft saddlebags that have worked well for me over the years . However, they have scratched up both sides of the plastic below the seat on my CBR1000F (I haven't used them on my XX because of this.) Now that I have the XX, I'm trying to sell my CBR1000F and plan to include them in the sale. Now the confusion starts: In looking at luggage options for the XX, I must be really stupid because I can't figure out exactly what I need, and what will rack/luggage combo will work together without having fitment problems, etc. Additionally, while I don't mind paying for quality, I currently have a limited budget. Options I'm considering: 1. SWmotech sideracks with renntec toprack. Is this a working combination, or will only the SWmotech top-rack work with the sideracks? 2. The whole Givi Monolock/Monokey thing is really confusing. I don't know which ones need an adapter rack or not or, if an adapter is included with the case, do I still need an adapter if I'm using a non-Givi rack system(?). As an example, I think I like the E450 topcase, but the description on twisted throttle.com indicates that "this case will not fit Givi monokey racks without an adapter (not included), nor will it fit the E-series topracks" (what...???... it's an E series case!?!) 3. I'm trying to balance storage capacity with price and size. I really like the look of the E41's and they don't seem overly large (41L/case), but they are one of more expensive cases in Givi's lineup. Is there any hope of getting decent looking cases/racks that won't cost almost a grand? What combinations of cases do you guys recommend for the occasional 3-4 day getaway? 4. Anyone here have a chance to evaluate the JC Whitney case? It looks like a topcase, but could it be used as side cases too? Shit, at this point, I don't know whether to go cheap and get a useable (but ugly or small), or to buy quality pieces a little at a time.... I'm just so confused...

Thanks, Chuck, for the info. Does "110" counts include the master link or is it 110+1? Thanks again. I haven't actually counted them, but I always assumed that the "110" is the final link count after the chain is connected.

110 is correct and it did come with the master link... From sprocketcenter.com: A10A1102 AFAM/D.I.D. 530ZVM Gold Chain Kit - CBR 1100XX 97-04 AFAM Steel sprockets- D.I.D. 530ZVM Gold X'ring chain- Rivet style master link More Info $199.00 Your choice of 17/45 or 16/45 gearing. At first I was worried I got a lesser quality chain by mistake, but now I feel I got a pretty good deal for a change - proof that the sun does shine on a dogs ass every now and again...

I emailed Brian at sprocketcenter about this and here is his reply: -------------------------------------------------------- "Sorry for the mis-packaged chain. The Nickel plated chain is brand new from D.I.D. and actually sells for $15-20 more than the gold version. D.I.D. used to make that chain in grey for $20 cheaper and that's probably what the guys on the internet are thinking it is. I am currently back ordered on the gold but I should have more in a week or two. Since we are out of the gold, you received the nickel for the same price. Brian Lewis Sprocket Center" -------------------------------------------------------- I can't seem to find any information (using google) regarding a nickel plated DID chain, but that would be expected since the product is new, right? Anyone here have any information regarding this new DID Chain? It looks like I actually got a good deal regarding the substitution and I was extremely impressed by the speed of his response to my email. Looks like they'll have me as a return customer. Chuck

UPS guy just dropped off the chain & sprockets I ordered from sprocketcenter.com. Woohoo! right? Not so fast... Even though I ordered the 'AFAM 530ZVM2 Gold Chain Kit', the chain that came today is a DID 530ZVM2 'S-Bright'. WTF???? So I open the box to check it out and sure enough, it's not 'gold'. It is however, a nice and shiny 530ZVM2 chain. Looking at kneedraggers.com they have two 530ZVM2 chains listed, a gold and a silver with the silver being $20 cheaper. They are the only site I could find that even gave you a choice of color, all the others list only the 'gold". Personally, I couldn't care less about the color of the chain, I just don't want to be paying 'extra' for something I didn't get. What do you guys think? Chuck

I've got a '98 with 50K or so miles. Aside from a few scratches, it loks and runs as good as new...

From comments Carlos has made on the cbrlist and the info that is on this site regarding Mobil 1 15W50, I recently made the decision to switch from Honda oil to Mobil 1. After making the change, gear changes are definately smoother (of course, they are always smoother immediately after any oil change) and have not felt any slippage in the clutch. Bottom line is that I don't really notice any mechanical or performance improvement, but my wallet really likes the savings. YMMV