Zero Knievel

Have the big one, not the small one. Not sure if there's anything of use in the small one.

I have a '99. 6.0 gallon (supposedly). Light comes on and stays on, if I get gas, I'm typically putting in 5.0 gallons. I'm guessing 1/2 gallon reserve with that last 1/2 gallon potentially inaccessible without tipping the bike over.

Did you have to replace the odometer? Normally, you just need to document the replaced odometer reading.

There is an input brake line on the side of the linked left front master cylinder and an output line on the top. I think the fluid is circulated through the cylinder during the rear caliper outter nipple bleeding procedure, while the piston is in the relaxed state. When front wheel brake motion activates the piston, it closes the input port to apply pressure to the rear caliper, just as the front handlebar master cylinder piston closes it's reservoir port to apply pressure to the front calipers. Sorry if I sound stupid, but are you saying that the piston I'm looking at has two lines? One on the side (I seem to not be seeing) and one on top? I see one on the side (facing the fork) but that bolt has two lines...one going up and one going down to the caliper. Is that the one you're talking about? Side (front) feeds in and top feeds out? How do you bleed that piston or is it more of a pass-through line so bleeding the rear automatically flushes air out a rear nipple once it runs the whole loop?

Anyone know how that piston on the left side front caliper is bled? Looking at the lines it looks like a brake line goes to the top, but that's it. Since I replaced all my lines, I presume that following the bleeding instructions got all the air out, but this presumes that fluid flows from a master cylinder to a bleed nipple. There's no bleed nipple on this piston, so how does the air get out?

Yes, the XX with linked brakes (didn't learn this until recently) is only linked rear to front. The front brake only works on the front wheel. The rear does both the rear and the front. Frustrating work....especially if your lines are empty. I had to suck on the bleeder line to get the master cylinders to start pumping.

Off hand I spent over $800 for my set, but I didn't get the fancier bags. I'd say new it'd be an easy $1,000.

Very tempting. Too bad I already have a set. Hate to see what shipping would be.

I'm not so sure. It's been a while since I had to replace spark plug wires, but I can attest that high-quality aftermarket is usually as good or better than OEM and cheaper.

Keep in mind that one of Amsoil's benefits is extended drain intervals. So, if you're replacing the oil at the normal interval and not going 2 or 3 times as long (changing maybe only the filter and topping off), you're losing that benefit.

Quality lubricant is what keeps a engine bulletproof. :icon_snooty: I'm at 67,000+

My best guess is to look up the cost and part numbers from Honda and see if anyone makes aftermarket versions (m/c performance websites?) to save money (most anyone is cheaper than OEM). That or find a shop capable of making custom wires (not hard, but very few places still do that).

My guess would be a short or crack in one of the spark plug wires (water allowing spark dispersal before it reaches the plug).

Snake oil. Amsoil makes one of the top lubricant products on the market. Why custom blend oil (unless it's a real old lead-fuel burning motor)? Coolant? It's all the same. If you worry that much, change it more frequently.

And the answer is.... 42

My boots at home are size 44. Those look like 46.

I might be interested in the boots. Gotta check my boots at home to verify if the size is right.

I've thought of getting one of those, but frankly, the only time I find it is necessary is when you break the system open. It seems the master cylinders don't self-prime, so you need some suction. I just used my mouth, but that tool would have been more hygienic.

Very interesting. You have the part #s you used and what kind of coin was involved? How much work to install (I presume both fuel lines must be cut and fitted).

True. I even put the date I unseal the bottle on it. Up to a month after I first opened it, I might use it. After that it might as well go in the trash. Since the bigger bottles are more cost effective, it's not uncommon for me to have some left over.

Another thread made me wonder. On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

On Offer #2 (fuel lines) got a link to where I can get more details and photos of what it looks like?

Like what you did with the bulb shields. I wonder why DDM doesn't include that in their design. I know I'm not skilled enough to rig that up on my own.

At todays exchange rate of $1.52206 USD to the £1 GBP that make £200 GBP $304.413 USD Hope that help. Figrues as a guide only. Too bad this didn't come by 6 months ago. Oh well.

Don't know what those prices are in USD, but it figures something like this would come down right after I did my own HEL conversion.