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Zero Knievel

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Everything posted by Zero Knievel

  1. Why? The caliper didn’t fail. I broke the bleed nipple. Doesn’t matter, I replaced the caliper and it’s solved.
  2. Okay, we’re paying for one, maybe two if his son comes along. So, no they aren’t doing anything I can’t do myself in about the same time. All they are saving me is time and dealing with allergies, BUT the cost is not going to be sustainable if I have to pay 100% myself. More so, only around the house needs mowing every 2 weeks. Everywhere else can go a month or later, but if they come out here, they do all of it. If they did less work, they’d not discount the price because were paying for the distance they have to come. Same with the house cleaners. I could do all of it myself, but mom would rather hire ladies to come in once a month, but they never really clean as well as she’d do on her own. You’re also essentially “in town.” He can probably hit your house and 2-3 others in one day.
  3. I don’t need local service. John Deere is off the list because of the proprietary BS they’ve been doing to frustrate DIY repair and maintenance. Most brands don’t do that, but most don’t have franchise dealerships struggling to stay in business. So long as 80% of regular maintenance or repairs is DIY, that’s good enough. I want to avoid models with expensive repairs or replacements even in spite of being well-maintained.
  4. Dave, at $300 a month, we’d already have paid off a new one by now based on the prices I’m seeing.
  5. It’s what they had. There were no forged eye bolts in either store.
  6. This winter, mom and I will consider getting a zero turn riding mower and let go of the yard service. Please suggest brands and models. Affordable, reliable, easy to service DIY are top priorities. I will not consider John Deere because of the issues they’ve had. Our last JD was reliable, but if it had an issue, repair work from a JD dealer was a pain. Not opposed to buying used if it’s clean and well-kept.
  7. That’s a thought…although it bothers my sense of completing the job properly. Inspections are not always done by auto mechanic shops. In fact, I avoid those because some of them will claim you need work done then quote a price for doing it. When the other caliper seized, they wanted over $500 for both sides (not necessary), and they were quoting parts I knew don’t exist or have no need for the replacement of the caliper. This is a shop my mom went to for tires but I warn everyone to avoid them. Actually, screw that. Replacing a caliper is easy enough. If the cost of a replacement is low enough, might just be easier to do that than try to have a mechanic extract the stub. It was a screw extractor. You could see it twisting as you tried to remove the nipple. That’s poor quality metal. I should have stripped out the stub before the tool showed any stress. Very unhappy.
  8. I’ve flushed brakes several times. Never had this happen before. Other side froze. It was replaced. Likely a throwback to when my dad had thoracic surgery scheduled and they had to drive through flood waters to go to the hospital. This was the only nipple to have an issue. 2005 car, so anything is possible. Now someone tells me. That might be the case here. Still, the removal tool shouldn’t have done what it did if it was steel as advertised.
  9. Opposite side needed replacement. It’s going to the mechanic now. The tool was pot metal BS (steel…my ass) and broke off. I’m not fucking with it anymore.
  10. Okay. I'll PM my address. Do not show up with a 6-pack of beer and a thong.
  11. I bought some eye bolts at Lowes, but decided to double check at Home Depot. I got 4 of these and some lock nuts. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-x-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Eye-Bolt-Nut-813666/314746012 These are rated for 350 pounds. The "best" I found at Lowes were only rated for 160 pounds.
  12. Likely not, but I wasn't using the strap for the rear tire but attaching to the frame (as BMW indicates but wasn't working well here). I need to experement to find the optimal anchor points. I'm starting to agree. Yeah, they do have "custom make" as an option...if you want to spend about $5,800 for one new. I got mine for under $1,000...including tax/registration and likely gas to/from. If I had that kind of cash to throw around, I'd get a fucking enclosed trailer. If I haven't done it with my underwear yet, I'm not worried about the trailer. The psychopath part of me approves. Honestly, there's a lesson to learn here about carefully examining photos of a product before buying. If you go to their website, most every bike they show on the trailer (newer version to mine) are "traditional" motorcycles. No sport bikes. The closest is a KTM, and it is similar to my RS save for my single-sided swingarm. However, examine the photo carefully. What's missing? TIE DOWNS. They just put it on the trailer and took photos. Maybe they knew the trailer wouldn't work well for certain configurations?
  13. That’s my thought. Clearly they designed this thing for bikes with low pipes or high pipes. Middle placement screws with your straps.
  14. I’ll try treating before removing. The caliper was replaced on one side years ago when a piston locked.
  15. Might have redeemed your manhood if you didn’t use the adjective “fantastic.” Granted, you’d be full homo if you used “fabulous.”
  16. Well. I’m disappointed. The idea “works” on one side, but not the other. I might have to consider installing a special anchor point on the step rail to ensure the straps clear. Otherwise, all I can do is slide old socks over the strap to act as a buffer.
  17. Hey, even a broken clock is right twice a day. You should feel proud.
  18. Flushing the brake lines, one of the bleed nipples snapped off. Best way to remove the old one? A small bit of it still is exposed.
  19. Their installed. Not tested yet, but now I have 3 points to which I can attach. Maybe test it later today or Saturday.
  20. This is what a "typical" eye-bolt looks like. It think it's self-explanatory why I would need two nuts to install it. Other photos from Amazon indicate it's flat. Might be an optical illusion from the lighting used in the photo.
  21. Thanks. That would only necessitate getting a slightly longer bolt. If you know how an eye-bolt is shaped, to not compromise the bolt as a securing point for the fender, I'd want a locking nut on the inside (towards wheel) and one at the "top" so I can properly tighten it down. The existing bolt inserts from the wheel side. An eye-bolt would have to insert from the trailer side.
  22. The bolts only attach the fenders…so I suppose your idea would work, but I’d need a locking nut on both sides and I question if the short distance it would provide would make enough of a difference. I was going to make a snarky quip about complicated math, but then remembered what you do for a living. With my current health, I find that all day rides (over 500 miles) take enough out of me that riding at the destination is a chore…especially if I have to have the means to ride back home. If I ride someplace and there’s fun stuff to do other than ride, I can make the trip about riding there and back. Going to Utah was an exhausting trial and not a vacation…odd as only a decade or so ago I used to ride cross country. Once a month jaunts with the locals wear me out if I have to go all the way to Johnson City, TN just to meet up.
  23. 23 year old XX with not even break in mileage. Garage queen...and I wonder what issues it may have from never being ridden.
  24. I doubt an eye bolt would be fit to substitute for a wheel mount bolt. I agree that the mounts should be further from the bike.
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