CALCXX

? Did it sell

The clearcoat really makes it look good. NICE!

You know the Peterson triplets too??? Mike, Mark and Marv you fag? Yer a Douchebag :icon_iloveyou: I have to get near it somehow. LOL

You know the Peterson triplets too??? Mike, Mark and Marv you fag?

Jim, last June, I finally replaced my OEM battery (98XX). I also replaced my failed R/R with an R1 R/R and Mikes loom kit. I replaced the OEM 12AH battery with a 14AH battery, It's 5/8 of an inch taller. No problems with clearance with my Corbin seat. Cranks the starter very well in the cold. my .02 Cal

offer sent

Joe, thought I'd throw my .02 cents in here as a witness. When I was @ NeXXT, Joe put me up for a couple days. For shits -n- grins, we rolled the H1 out and within three kicks it sprung to life. I have owned an H1 and I must say, this H1 ran with no rattleing noise, didn't miss a beat and had good throttle response right from stone cold. Much better motor than the memories of my H1, as if the motor had been balanced. I know it sounds to good to be true. It was that much better than my H1. A good collectors piece.

Got my connectors Mike. Thanks NICE WORK!!

Good lookin bike Dave. Mileage?

Congrats Randy. Good choice

Smokin deal. Wish it fit me.

Nice work Mike. Quality spade terminals, soldered and shrink tube. Looks like you used mtw/awm wire? Much better than my temporary connection. PM sent.

Replumbed my entire house about 8 years ago. Zero problems. As already been mentioned, you need the expanding tool to properly install the fittings. Lucky for me, I have friend that owns a Plumbing business.

I had to nurse the XX home just a couple months ago. FYI, if your interested? http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry632718

Good idea Tim. I'd gamble twenty bucks for a review. Someone organize this? I'm in. Cal

Installed a 99 R1 regulator tonight. My voltmeter shows 14.3 vdc about 2200 rpm. I also replaced the 12ah battery with a 14ah battery. Fits fine. It's about 5/8 of an inch taller. Did you notice how quickly the regulator gets warm? I was concerned so, I put an ameter on it. It shows 6 to 7amps on the negative lead @ idle. Shows 13 -19 amps @ 6k and you can see the regulator working with the amp guage. I think the automotive industry pushes the ampacity ratings of wire. AWM wire has a higher temp rating than say thhn. 105c vs 90c. I guess they get away with it because it's not a constant load. Still, 19 amps is alot to carry thru a 16ga wire. ANYONE else ever put an ameter on thier XX? Anyone know what values to expect @ what RPM?

I have a 98XX. Arka pipe, Ti jet-kit. 145 mains, 2nd from top on the needles, 2 1/2 turns out. Dyno w/O2 sensor reads 14-1 AF mixture. I am @ 410ft elevation and I always head for the mountains. That's why I want to run @ 14-1 AF ratio. Goes like a MoFo. imho, I think 4 turns out is way too much. Cal

I get bearings from an Industial Bearing supply house. Mcquire Bearing. Good quality bearings. Check your phonebook. They have no problem matching bearings with numbers or a micrometer.

I originally replaced mine with a single LED bulb. It was brighter than stock, but wanted it a little brighter. Now I've got the 4LED cluster and looks great. Gives the dash a bluish glow instead of the tired old yellow tinge. Vern showed me his dash in Red Bluff. Looks real cool!! I may do this also. Cal

I've been reading the threads in preparation for the Reg / Rec change. Trying to decide if the R1 or Electrosport would be the best choice? Wanted to post the observation of Jeff before it died. Jeff said he could see my low beam in his mirror acting "funny" right before the main 30 amp fuse blew. I had a spare 30 ATC and replaced it. Started the bike, let it idle while I put my gear on. High beam worked. Low beam did not. Less than a 1/4 mile, blew the 30 A fuse again. Jeff rode 25 miles for more 30A fuses ( thanks Jeff ) replaced it again started bike and the R/R was smokin. Removed the rear cowl and the R / R had a burnt pinhole with an oily trail running down the R/R. Seventy five miles back to my house. I pulled the connector at the R/R and highgeared it to home on battery alone in the daylight with no headlite. Thirty-five miles from home, the speedo dropped to zero on the Interstate. All the other gauges continued to work (98XX) untill about 12 miles from home then, the tach fell to zero. Getting nervous. Geared up in leathers, 95 degrees and I don't want to stop. Pulled in the driveway and rushed to find my keys for the shop cause I don't want to push. Well, it died. It's over. My beloved XX has brought me home. Let me know what you think. R1 or Electrosport Reg? Could I still have an issue with the low beam since the high beam worked and the low beam did not? I haven't looked in the manual yet. Does the lighting system use a relay? Is the R/R affected by start-up sequence with the headlight circutry? Not sure what to look for after the R/R change. Don't want to toast another. Thoughts please Mike, do you still offer an adapter harness if I decide to go the R1 route? I would like the ability to return to stock R/R in a bind? Thanks, Cal

Throw a 3/4" black pipe in the trench and cap it incase you ever want natural gas or regulated propane in the shop. Throw another 1" PVC in for any ethernet or any low voltage security/fire protection lines? It's real cheap at this point.

Count me in Dave.

I've only had one problem in 7 years. My dash clock gained two minutes. Sell the Busa.

How many years of service for the XX battery? Hard for me to believe my original battery is still good. Nine years. I don't own a Battery Tender. I just start it a couple times during the winter months. Try to run it above 6 Grand when ever possible. 36K miles No powered accesories. Original R&R 98XX.

Don't laugh, I have used a rubberband for years when I know I'm going to do a full day freeway drone. I remove the rubberband when I get to the twisties. You can get this crusie control for free. I like the rubberbands they use to bundle asppergas. (sp)