CALCXX

Oscar, kudos for you. To find the problem backtracking others recent work is commendable. Tie wrapping cable to a heat source is bad. BTW, my Son (the designated driver our night) said the 443K mile land yacht drove well and he is a CDL truck driver. My weak Suburban was ok getting the boat home.

Yeah, link type fuses weaken. My buddy Mike had an RC51. He went the simple way of thermostat bypass switch for slow summer traffic. The front facicing radiator pics you posted show some thick radiators. Nice.

Dave, is yours linked with your fish finder ? I watched the route on Greggs Fish Finder screen and could see the trolling motor correct for a little wind. The anchor mode kept the boat in about a 15ft area. Impressive. I will go the poor man way of using my foot if I have a big fish on. That;s the plan anyway.

As of today, I'm good for 207lbs of thrust.

That would be perfect. Just don't want to spend that much.

Gregg has one of those smart trolling motors on his Bass boat. Drives it from his controller on his wrist. Impressive. logs points, path and auto corrects. He claims it's Ocean worthy. I believe him. Anchor mode is cool also. Can't spend 3k on this toy. The scissor mount it what I really need. Lots of trolling motors on CL to choose from. Thought I would ask here first.

No salt water in it's future. 24v would be nice but 12v is A ok.

Minn Kota guide recommends 60lb thrust.

I see why you replaced the coil. You said that didn't help.

Makes me wonder about the insulator on the pivot post since you said it was not open. (grounding the points) You also said it just quit. I think it should have backfired if the points are grounding. Condensor would have drained also.

fwiw, I tried with Safari instead of Chrome and all works well on my Mac Catalina 10.15.7 Chrome is fukin me and I didn't even get a dinner or a movie. Now that I think about it. Chrome even wants me to pay for the movie.

I do that everyday. Didn't help. And I must now go back to the original post to select another page of the same thread. Can no longer go forward or back after reading all the posts on that page. Behaving odd at my house.

Something happened in the past few days. I now get a message saying the site is insecure and do I want to continue. I click yes and proceed. I can reply but I cannot click like, bullshit, crackhead, Award, upvote. Something on my end ? Here's what I get ---- Sorry, there was a problem reacting to this content. Edit: I just posted a YT link in Jeff's fasted motorcycle thread and got rejected. I paused. 5 seconds later, it posted. I did nothing. Hmmm odd.

I am new to air fry. I love it. I rarely use the frying pan anymore. Thanks for the link. I think I need this. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0764HS4SL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mike, I have also snapped off small extractors and taps by using a cresent wrench. It's too easy to side load the extractor or tap. I stopped doing that. Use a T-handle anytime an extractor or tap are needed.

Great tutorial. Clearly explained. 👏

Can you spare a couple USB-C cables for the power brick you gave me?

Bill, the guide is misleading. Remember, your name plate says 120v. You don't have 220v on 1 phase. Nameplate is everything. Ask your home insurance agent what he thinks about supplying 220v to this 120v rated appliance.

yeah, you found your problem, you have a bad winding.

Anytime it's heating, it will draw the same amount of current. 10ga wire minimum. Your guide shows a 1P 30a breaker for the 220v 06 model. You don't have 220v on a 1-Pole breaker. The guide is a little misleading. Europe. You can;t get 220v on one phase using the neutral at your house. You would have to wire 1 Line directly hot instead of the neutral. Don't do it. Baseboard heaters were allowed to do that in the sixties. NEC put a stop to that bullshit. Neither the 04 and 06 have a thermostat. You need to rethink this application. If you have 10ga wire in the wall, connect one Line to a 30A 1P breaker, one line to neutral for 120v. Since you don't have temp control, you can do the mixing valve thing or buy one with a thermostat. Bill, don't run it anymore until this is corrected. The 220V 1ph is Europe. That can be confusing. In the U.S., and in fact everywhere in North America, the standard voltage is 110 V (with a frequency of 60 Hz) rather than the 220 volts used in Europe. The 06 model will not help your situation.

Bill, I see the model -04 does not have a thermostat. More like an Insta-hot for making tea. You are supplying it with twice the voltage beyond the nameplate rating. Turn it off and get control of it. If you are going to keep it, have the Electrician come back and move one phase off the 2-P breaker back to Neutral and supply it with 120. Your chart shows 1P 30A breaker 10ga wire minimum.

Bill, the name plate reads 120V. Hmmmm Is there another diagram undercover in the make up box showing the taps and elements in series or parallel ? It must have a thermostat also. Adjusted where? I would be surprised if it is fixed at 161.

My hot water heater is only about 25 feet away. I re-plumbed the house about 15yrs ago with Aqua-Plex. Made a big difference replacing all that copper tubing and iron pipe. Hot water much faster even in winter. and yeah 161 is pretty damn hot. Are you sure it's a fixed set point?

Lets hope so. I don't have much confidence in sand cast cases after a couple bad experiences.

It requires a lot more gusseting to equal the strength of the die cast cases. Die cast. no porosity. Ducati must have undoubtedly made a mold with extra gusseting. Otherwise, no. Hope it never fractures. Cast aluminum is extremely hard to weld. Especially if it is oil impregnated. Good luck with that. Been down that road.