TURK

second choice looks rite to me

Is the bike stock ie air cleaner,exhaust sounds as if she might be a little lean

Do you have stock exhaust of aftermarket if the exhaust is not stock you could have a lean pop and you should rejet.I have a dyno jet kit in mine and love it ps stop riding your mechanic its not nice

The red,yellow,white dots indicate lite spot and should be aligned with valve stem for a better balance using less weight

Where did you mount the alarm box sounds related,If the alarm when in alert mode makes the headlight and flasher blink then kills the ingnition seem to all tie in,it sound as if the alarm is shorting these system when it gets hot. Pull it off the bike through it away buy a rotor lock

Part of the problem may be not enough air.Slide question it has three holes two vac relieve one needel becareful not to drill to big and only drill one.Next thing how thick are your shim washers they may be to thick check to see if washer thickness is = to one clip postion if so find thinner washer,try radio shack sells a washer asst for electronics that are very thin = to 1/2 a clip adj.back to need more air you may have to poke some holes in airbox lid

Sounds like fouled s-plugs.How long was she running with the choke on? Remove the seat the gas tank the air box and you should be able to change the s-plugs .You will need the s-plug wrench in the tool kit with a 10mm wrench or socket. good luck

Race take off are worn out tires they have no stick left thats why the racer dont use them any more but if you have bald tures and cant afford new ones they are about three clicks better then bald. I would not risk my life or my xx on them

MAKE SURE THE GRIP HAS NOT SLID UP TO SWITCH HOUSING AND STICKING THERE

why not drill the rear grab rail and put a lock on either side

THE PROBLEM WITH THE PC IS IT CAUSING THE CDI TO THINK THE BIKE HAS A LEAN MISFIRE THUS TRIGGERING THE LIGHT IF YOU GET WITH DYNO JET THEY CAN HELP BUILD A MAP TO KEEP IT FROM HAPPENING OR USE TO I HAVE BEN OUT OF A DEALERSHIP FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS THINGS CHANGE

cleaning the carbs is easy remove the tank,remove he air box, loosen the lower intake boot clamps ,disconnect the choke cable.you can leave throttle cables attached,pull the carbs,remove the float bowls, you will see two jets and a float in the bottom of carbremove both jet one will be bigger the the other spray carb cleaner through the the small one is the pilot jet you may need to poke it clean. i use a stran of wire then spray through it after you have poked it.reassemble and repeat on all carbs

honda recomends you wait until 10k before going to syn oil so that the rings can seat properly to prevent high milage oil usage

Honda rec you check steering head bearing tightness every 3500 miles.what you want to do is put the xx on center stand have someone push the back of the bike down to lift the front wheel if the air if h-bars flop to either side sterring brg adj is needed the h-bars should stay where ever you put them if steering bearing adj is correct. if they are to loose gyro effect is causing the shake, front tire wear and air also may cause it

you should always re-jet. when your bike was designed by honda and tested the carbs were detuned to pass federal emmission standards, you can re-jet a bike with factory exhaust to increase performance.one of the process when installing a jet kit is to drill the slide to increase throttle response,also if you increase exhaust flow you should always increase air/fuel mixture

check the new cover just removed for any odd wear marks,its prob a dowl hole alignment issue on the new cover causing the starter clutch gears to not mess properly