Para045

+1 Here in West Australia the main problem has been it's so bloody hot Last few days have been around the 40c (104f) mark, not real comfortable bike riding weather :icon_nono: We're the same in winter if it gets down to ~2c that is a really cold day, most are around 5-6c :icon_think:

Just got a new PR3 on the rear a week or so ago, seems good so far much like the PR2 :icon_think: The extra grooves should be better in winter, will have to see what mileage I get Seems after stopping the PP here in Aus and getting a lot of complaints they are selling it again as well as the PR2

Fixed

+1 They do stuff like that all over the world not just the US Not sure about the US but with a few brands of cars (Hyundai in particular) we get in Oz that wont crank without your foot on the brake, even if it's an auto and in park A new Hyundai van at work wont even let you move the selector on the auto box without your foot on the brake :icon_wall:

A man of like mind I have a 98 XX and always figured if I updated to a 03-07 XX I would want to swap the instruments as I prefer the analogue as well Yeah I've seen a couple of those and it doesn't seem too hard, should actually be slightly easier possibly :icon_think:

? Yes sir. +1. Fuck that marble horseshit. Ive used these on my last 3 BB's and VFR's with zero issues. Pick em up at your local auto parts store. Only thing is that they might be visible on the Rumph though. Yeah quite a few VFR guys either do what you have or the marble trick, particularly on the VTECH's :icon_think:

Yeah I got a 4" nail in the rear PR2 a couple of years back and it was feeling really weird on the way home, when I finally looked it had gone in on the RH 1/3 of the tyre but skewed out and hit the edge of the rim :icon_wall: Only had a couple of thousand km on it too

Glad to see you got it sorted mate

Ha Ha yeah I realise it's mainly the traffic over there and was being a bit facetious, the missus is a Pom and watches a lot of those "Move to the Country" type pommie TV programs and there was one the other day where the guy looking to move did a 4 mile drive to work that took him ~40 minutes :icon_wall: I hate that it takes me ~45 mins to to do the 60 odd km drive to work in the hills Although I have done it in under 30 on the Bird

Devon is a lot closer than Fort Lauderdale, Florida is ! Can't argue with that LOL I really must get my ass up there next year. hopefully have my turbo Bird finished by then. Ha ha it does sound funny hearing Poms talk about how far places are One of the guys on the local Perth WA forums did a similar distance (Perth-Geraldton and back) as a day trip not long ago and the missus has been up to Gero to visit her sister for a weekend

Yeah I put on a 46T Supersprox Stealth rear with a 16T front and a Gold DID 530ZVM2 chain ~3 years/33000km's ago and so far I've only needed to adjust it 3 times very slightly The Scottoiler obviously helps as well :icon_think:

Probably because the XX in Oz and Europe had the HISS security system with a chip in the top of the key and changed the barrel setup :icon_think:

Hmmm it's been a while, BUMP

Why not just download from here > Public Discussion Forums > Mechanical/FAQ > Important/Useful Threads Honda CBR1100XX Service Manual / Shop Manual - CBR1100XX_Shop_Manual.pdf - 146.32Mb That's for the FI bikes but there isn't much difference with the 97-98 other than the carbs etc :icon_think: Also > Honda CBR1100XX Genuine Honda Parts Catalog - CBR1100XX_Parts_Manual.pdf - 7.445Mb

+1 From memory Japanese and French market bikes are restricted power wise but that's about it :icon_think:

Part of the reason I went the 900RR shock route which was done originally by Carlos on the old board I believe and copied over onto OzBB back before I joined in 06 :icon_think: I to had the problem of the springs being different, I went with a 6'' x 2.25'' 1100lb Eibach spring and as above needed a collar spacer made up as the stock spring tapers and is ~6.5'' :icon_think: Made a huge difference and cost me ~$460AUD back when our $AUD was ~US.75c A new Öhlins then was ~$2k AUD and a Penske ~$1500 I got the collar made and the shock rebuilt but not re-valved, it's done about 70000km's now and is feeling a bit tired so am going to get it freshened up and will look at getting the valving altered a bit as well because it always felt like it kicked back a bit on sharp bumps :icon_wall:

Was it a Honda OEM or another brand? That is s significant savings! Thanks.... Ricks are aftermarket not OEM although I believe they have quite a good reputation You can if the battery is completely FUBAR and puts extra load on the R/R trying to charge it all the time, get her running and see if it's got over 14.5v @ 4000rpm from memory :icon_think:

I remember a post from WILLSXX, showing a source for LED replacements for the early lamps in the panel. My 01 has LEDs so I haven't had to change any cluster lights yet. But you should be able to pull the windscreen and get to the rear of the cluster. Or continue on and remove the three nuts holding the cluster in place and move it reward. The lights are in sockets. Rotate the sockets to a certain position, and two tabs on the sockets line up with holes in the cluster. The socket comes out, and you can then replace the light. I would look into replacing all lights with LEDs if your bike is old enough to have lights. Will was able to source different color LEDs and the pictures of the cluster looked real nice. This^^^ I replaced mine a year or so back, just removed the screen, twisted the sockets undone and replaced the globes (T10 from memory), I went with a blue colour for something different

The numbness could also be from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome I have it from years in the building game using hammer drills etc I use a Vista Cruise to allow me to flex my fingers and not need a tight grip on the throttle :icon_think: Joe is correct about the different power characteristics as well, when I was looking I rode quite a few XX's, mostly 97/98's due to my budget but did try a couple of later FI ones (a 01 and a 04 from memory) and they both felt slightly torquier off the bottom but just didn't have the rush once you hit ~6500rpm I went with a 98 after that I think the FI ones are also down a few HP until the ram air takes effect at higher speeds as well :icon_think:

+1 I reckon there is still air in the system somewhere, most likely as IM said the aux MC :icon_think: I had problems years ago when I had an old 78 F100 4WD, I got the rear converted to disc brakes which worked brilliantly until I replaced the lines with braided lines and then I seemed to have no rear brakes :icon_wall: I tried everything I could, bled it a dozen times, removed and checked the secondary MC/balancer for the front/rear and even took it to a specialised brake shop who pressure bled it and still no joy Even tried putting a brake bias adjuster in-line from the front thinking it might help but no :icon_doh: I then removed that and refitted the copper line from front to back and the brakes came good The only thing I could figure is that somewhere along the line there was an air bubble trapped in the SMC

I've had the lowering blocks since Dave's 1st run of them and absolutely love them I had to ride the bike for a while without them after a crash last year and couldn't wait to get them again BTW Hobicus from here is selling the blocks now via his business Cycle Farkles LLC Yeah I would try the VFR forums, they occasionally come up on eBay but are quite sort after and go for near new $$

I got mine checked at ~92000km's and they hadn't been checked while I've had my bike from ~32000km's and all were within spec

When I 1st got my XX I replaced the front with a Pilot Power and got ~14900km's out of it and ~3800km's from the Pilot Road rear that was already on it (I'm guessing almost ~2/3 gone) before the centre getting a huge flatspot down to the belt The next Pilot Road rear lasted ~11000km's and then I chucked on a set of Shinko 005's, the rear only lasted ~6500km's :icon_wall: although the front lasted ~13000km to bald :icon_think: Then I fitted the 1st Pilot Road 2 rear and it lasted ~7500km's before a big arse nail went through the sidewall I then fitted a Pilot Power front & Pilot Road 2 rear combo and got ~11000km's from the rear down to the wear bars on the right hand side and got ~14000km's to the front :icon_clap: Then another PR2 rear which lasted ~10500km's and a PR2 front which lasted ~16500km's although it was starting to handle like a barge well before it wore out :icon_doh: Next on went a Pilot Pure front which lasted ~11000km's and felt quite good till the end and a Pilot Road 2 rear which is about 1/2 gone at ~6500km's :icon_think: The current Pilot Road 3 front feels OK but only has ~1500km's on it I really liked the PPf/PR2r combo and only changed at 1st to try the PR2 front and then they stopped selling the PP's here so went the Pures :icon_wall:

Any difference other than colour?