CBRBob

I am posting this for a friend.... 2001, 929 with 18,000 miles on it. I’m asking 4K. Everything is stock. Any questions, please e-mail rfblasi@comcast.net

This is new again for 2011! To all who need to or know someone who needs to learn to ride (and get licensed) or want to learn to ride better in NJ........ RENJ will start taking registrations Monday Jan, 17th. People that ride but need to ride better, take an ERC (experienced ridercourse) People who don't ride yet or that do without a license , take a BRC (beginners ridercourse). Details and scheduling on the RENJ.com website. As of course, I run the Morris county and Raritan Valley site. If I am not at the track, I am usually there on weekends. http://www.rider-ed.com/schedule.aspx

Sorry, $750. Shipping not included.

This is for a set of 4 Enkei RZ-5 Gunmetal 18x9.5 (42mm offset) wheels with Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 285/40-ZR18. I ran snow tires on the stock wheels so I don't run these in the winter even though they seem to go well. There is zero damage to the tires, two have a little more inside wear from being on the front. Two are newer than the other two. The newer ones are about 95% new. The others are about 80%(those having the inside wear). I have seen just 4 wheels for the same cost. You get almost new tires as well with this! No dents or bends in the wheels, normal wear. Some very small lip scuffing, normal wear etc. Any chipped paint has been touched up. The truck that these are on is a lowered Tacoma Xrunner X-Runner with the SOS kit up front and 2" blocks on the rear. I have no rubbing anywhere with this setup. The wheels sit 1/4" farther out than stock so you gain some stance yet not so far out that they will throw water/mud up the side of the fenders with wheels that are offset much further out. The only thing that you need to do is up front. Simply tuck the ABS wires in as much as possible by lightly bending the brackets so the wire is out of the way on both sides. The tires overall diameter is the same so your speedometer won't be affected. TPMS not included. Of course these will fit many other vehicles. You must research fitment prior to buying. To put these together new would be about $1,400. You pay shipping of course, or pick up locally. I am willing to travel a little from central NJ. I would ask payment be Paypal. Once cleared I will ship ASAP. Cash if local pickup. Will ship to Continental U.S. ONLY. I also have one extra wheel and a Pirelli P-Zero Nero tire on it that has about 35% tread left on it. I will let them go for $100+shipping. Tire is not mounted. Ask any questions prior to buying. All sales final, no returns. Paypal, CASH if local pickup. Thanks!

FYI, we are opening a NEW SITE in NJ at the Raritan Valley Community College. The 1st class is July 18-20! www.RENJ.com

To all who need to or know someone who needs to learn to ride (and get licensed) or want to learn to ride better........ RENJ will start taking registrations Monday Jan, 21st. People that ride but need to ride better, take an ERC (experienced ridercourse) People who don't ride yet or that do without a license , take a BRC (beginners ridercourse). Details and scheduling on the RENJ.com website. As of course, I run the Morris county site (CCM, Randolph etc). If I am not at the track, I am usually there on weekends. www.renj.com

You don't need to do anything like that to check the valves. If removing the cams to change the shims, just remove the tensioner(and BEST to replace it with a manually adjustable one from APE!)

When my XX was on the dyno, the tuner added and subtracted 2 and 4 deg. ign. Some added 1hp in areas and lost in others. Overall we found no reason to change. This was done wot and 50%. In my opinion based on hard numbers, adding and advancer will yield nothing but less $ in your pocket.

Perfectly normal with spirited riding.

Stiction......... force require to overcome static friction. What it takes to get the forks to start moving.

No. FYI, the reccomended damping setup is pretty soft on this bike. I ran 10w and then 20w. It stull seemed a bit soft. Not that I want it to ride hard but it wallows a bit. I will revalve it in a few months.

Diablo Corsa 3? Thats more of a track tire that can be ridden on the street. Yes, they run a little stiffer so drop the press 38-40. I have been pretty happy wear and traction-wise with The standard Diablo's.

Ummm, 'motorcycling for dummies'? I hope not.

I don't know of any of them but from track exp. any slider with a bracket to relocate it to a fairing hole will benk, break and do more damage. Silders with a large metal base do the same thing, just not as bad. They need to be made of the plastic, not metal. Intuitive is a good example. Simple, basic. Tough, they work. Fancy once like vortex or the ones that double as tie downs do more harm. Not to speak of those ones that go in the fairing bolt hole

If you want/need to take an ERC to sharpen up or if you know someone in NJ that wants to learn to ride.... http://www.rider-ed.com/ Ride safe!

If you think 2hrs is a lot of work..... LOL I usually like making things myself as long as I can meet or exceed quality of items that can be purchased. If it is unique, looks stock and performs better.... even better!

Some close pics of what to cap...............

+1 Stay away from integrated lights in the back. While I dont have the stock signals, I purchased some short stalk DOT legal signals and installed 30-led boards to light the whole lens. I also picked up a few things and made my own LED taillight. I got a stock 99+ XX taillight, a '03+ cbr600 taillingt and 3, 30-led boards. I dremeled the upper part to snug fit the 600 led board across. Then cut 3 round holes in the lower for the 30-led boards. Epoxied them all in place and wired it so the upper is the running light only. When you apply the brake, the upper goes to high and 90leds on the bottom come on. @ leds point down for a plate light. I cut 2 pieces of plexi and sealed the back with the connector as a pigtail. Then I painted it flat black to if there is ever a quick look in there, it dosent look as if something has been done. You can do this yourself for less than $50. Here are some pics (I wired both sigs on for the pic)

I would think that beyond defeating the PAIR the normal way, making it scavange to gain 1hp seems like a waste with all the $$ spent to separate the oil.

The rubber gasket usually stays on the cam cover when removed. Just a light skim of Permatex on the round part of the half-moon part of the rubber cam cover gasket will do. As far as 'in-spec'. If it calls for .006" +/-.001" and you can get a .005 but not a .004 its fine. Or a .007 but not a .008, it fine. Shoot for the center as either way has it's disadvantages. Too tight, valve seal will suffer and you could get burn through. Too loose and besides noise and extra wear on the valve stem tip, the cam will act 'smaller' as you will have less lift and duration.

Here it is as short and simple as I can say it. Unplug the solenoid, remove it and the attached hoses. Buy rubber caps and hoseclamps. Cap off the 3 nipples and you are done.

Or get a quality aftermarket shock with ride height adjustabilty.

What is this link supposed to do anyway?

Funny, as soon as Honda but a numerical readout for a temp gauge, every one of them ran hot! When it was just an analog gauge, the needle never went into the red and none of them ran hot. Can this have something to do with people not knowing how hot an engine is supposed to run? Naa.......... must be the engine.