poida

Ive found the life span of the tensioners varies widely on my bike.i had one crap out a few years ago with less than 10,000klms on it.it went in a bigger way than usual with it rattling from under 2000rpm.easy way for you to check it is to undo the 8mm bolt and see if you can wind it in a little while the bike is idling.see if it makes any difference

if it has a vibration while not moving i dont see how it could be the chain.i would of thought that would only come into play when the bike is moving.when the bike is in neutral and stationary does the vibration get worse as the revs are increased ?maybe the cam chain tensioner has crapped out

check for loose brackets,mountings for the fairings.when you say in neutral is that while stopped with the engine at idle?

i've also heard there's a way to tip the tank up onto it's rear (vertical) but, that seems precarious to me. this is how i do it.place a rag or old t shirt on the frame above near where the battery sits then i rest the rear of the tank on that.i use a light tie down strap and thread it through the rear grab rail(i pass it through the luggage rack i have on mine) and over the tank and around the section on the underside of the tank that slots into the frame.cant for the life of me think what they are called.then it's just a matter of raising the front of the tank to a height that allows access without putting strain on the fuel lines and pulling the strap tight to hold it place.give it a bit of a shake to confirm it's not going to fall over but i have found it is always very stable.removing the air box is easy although be careful when undoing the screws that hold the injection intake stacks down as the screw heads seem to be made of cheese and is easy to chew them out.I have found using a screw bit from an impact driver and turning it with a spanner works best.hardest part now can sometimes be getting the plug caps off.sometimes i find they come off easy ,other times one may be a pain.using the plug spanner that comes with the tool kit works well to get the plugs out.only other thing to watch out for is making sure the air tubes that run from the front of the nose cone to the air box are seated in properly when reassembling.

your a sick man birdslapper. by the way,did cundalini ever get his hand back?

Of a bearing made of jewel encrusted unobtainium ?

cheers for the replies.i will pick up a starter motor off ebay and see how that goes. 4 28125-MV9-672 CLUTCH OUTER, STARTING Retail: $200.47 Price: $150.35 150.35 http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/oem-parts/honda/2001/blackbird-_-cbr1100xx/starter-clutch Yes, I know where you are from but even with shipping from the US, it can't be that much. Is the money exchange that much different? exchange rate isnt that bad 77 us cents to our $ at the moment.no idea where the aussie sites got their pricing from. the bearing didnt appear to be made of jewel encrusted unobtainium.

every now and then when i start my bike there is a squealing noise while it is cranking.the bike still starts fine and as soon as i release the starter button the noise goes away.do the starter motors squeal when they are on the way out or would it be the starter clutch? Im hoping starter motor 4 OUTER COMP., STARTING CLUTCH 28125-MV9-672 1 1080.85

it had started to leak slightly from the weep hole on the underside of the pump.when i checked the overflow bottle and noticed it was low on coolant i removed the fairing and started checking all the hoses and thats when i noticed the leak.had to lie on the ground and use a torch to find the weep hole.the manual states that if it,s leaking from the weep hole then it's time for a new pump.prior to that, going back a few years the bike seemed to be getting hotter while in traffic quicker than it normally would and taking a longer time to get back to normal. the flow looked really good and i checked the vanes with an endoscope and it looked good so while it bugged me i just kinda put it down to the roads being more congested now and im spending more time stuck at traffic lights. what i found though when adjusting the valves a little while back gave me a new theory on it.i had removed the radiator and decided to flush it out with a hose.this was a new radiator i bought near the end of 2011 (the old radiator had no corrosion, it got holed from outside).the top radiator fitting had been painted or powder coated on the inside and it had been flaking off .there was a piece about the size of a fingernail that had lifted and was about ready to take off into the coolant.ended up sanding off what remained but it got me thinking that the flakes may have been clogging the cooling system .the flakes may have even damaged the water pump seal ?ive always used the honda coolant as it is silicate free and change it every 2 years. i didnt take any pics of the water pump while it was still on the bike.

i ended up using permatex aluminium anti seize on the bolts.i read that when using anti seize on bolts that you need to lower the recommended torque so just did them up by feel.with the pump being held in place by only 2 bolts i'm guessing that there is not a lot of stress on it.hopefully i get another near 300 000 klms out of it before it needs doing again.

i threaded the other bolt that didnt snap into it while using plenty of penetrant.just worked it in and out slowly going deeper.threads seemed to be holding ok.ultimate test will be when i tighten them up once the pump is in.had a call today that my replacement bolts are in so will pick them up in the morning and fit the pump.should i coat the new bolts in anything like brake caliper pin grease?

update.finally managed to get it out.welding a nut on didnt work as it was difficult to get good penetration with a weld. so i upped the amps slightly on the welder and welded directly on to the bit that remained sticking out.slowly built up the amount of weld till there was enough to get a good grip on it with small stilsons and was able to initially get it to turn clockwise a bit.then spent the next few hours slowly turning it in and out with doses of penetrant till it came out.there was some thread stuck to the end of the bolt but hopefully it hasn,t damaged the thread enough that i cant get a new bolt to do up once they arrive.

ive found it can take a surprisingly long time for moisture to evaporate from the outside of the radiator after washing it . take the bike for a ride and recheck.

drilling and easyout would be as a last resort when i have nothing left of the bolt sticking out.would prefer to use the gentlest options first like heating/cooling to try and free it up.

thanks for all the advice.will try the freeze spray on the bolt and heat on the casing for a few days and see if that free's it up.will start with vice grips or small stillsons and try not to shear off the bit protruding. spent a few hours googling last night and found out about left hand drill bits,only problem is finding them here in australia and a mate has a small easy out kit at work he has offered to lend me.i have a mig welder so welding a nut on wouldnt be a problem just not sure if i want to go down that path just yet.

thanks superhawk.i used reducteur penetrating oil .i need to buy new bolts to replace the old ones but there are none available in australia so they will need to be ordered from japan.that will give me 2 or 3 weeks to get the broken bit out.was thinking of trying loctite freeze and release on the bolt.a friend suggested using a hot air gun on the engine casing leaving the bolt cold another suggested welding an 8mm nut onto the bolt,although that sounds a bit extreme at this stage.i know the engines get hot when running but do you know if there is anything that could be damaged by applying heat to just a small area of the casing?forgot to add,there is about 3 to 4mm of bolt sticking out.

after some advice on the best way to go from here.was removing the old waterpump today so i could fit the new one but one of the bolts holding it in has snapped.there is still a little bit of the bolt sticking out so would anyone know the best way to proceed from here before i wreck what bit of bolt is left to grab.have sprayed it with a releasing spray and left it at that for now.

when my 99 has run on 3 cyl's it is usually one of the wires that plugs onto the coil . giving the connector where it plugs onto the coil a jiggle and it seems to sort it out.

thanks for the replies.my air cleaner gets pretty black so wasnt sure if that was because those holes were clogged up or not.hopefully i can get a couple of shims tomorrow.kinda shittin myself a bit that i screw something up so will be glad once it's all back together.

I'm attempting a valve adjustment on my 99 bird and when i removed the valve cover saw the holes that sit between the plug holes to be pretty gunked up.would i be correct in assuming they have something to do with the pair system?What would be the best and easiest way to clean them?I was thinking of using my shop vac and funnelling the end of it down to see if it will suck the crap out but thought it best to ask in case it's the wrong thing to do.

very nice looking bike.if it was here in australia i,d buy it in a flash.

Have had one of those meters on my bike for a couple of years now and ride year round.have been caught out in a some very heavy downpours and it still works fine.

dont know if your working from a workshop manual or not so have scanned these from my haynes manual bottom page first then top page.

Did you do a full flush of the system or just try bleeding it.reason i ask is the brake fluid in it may be contaminated.

when you say old pads ,are they old ones that have been used or were they old new ones.just wondering if they had the backing plates on them.ive only ever had the rear brake not release fully due to the slider pin sticking. if it was a front brake i would suggest pulling the front lever in as far as possible and tie it there and leave it overnight..worked on a gs1000 i once owned.not sure how you would do similar on the rear though.