dunedain

I agree w/MBE. also you should make some big safety pin like thingys out of coat hangers to stack all your shims on and keep them from getting lose or our of order. If you end up using a lot of shims and you fancy yourself a perfectionist then consider shim dishing. The RT shims are punched and have an almost notable concave side and you may want to stack the washers to ensure you're getting them exactly right (perfectionist right). PM me for more info. Did you get compression and rebound valves? You should have but thats big dolla. read all the directions prior to doing this. Have you considered alternate shim stacks? The RT documentation has one setup fits all but there is more than one way to shim the forks. You can actually build in hig, mid and low speed damping with a custom shim stack. PM me for more info on this. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAn make it clean you'll need two cans of automitve contact cleaner and an air compressor. an old cookie sheet woorks good for laying stuff out and catching oil and stuff. Good luck!

Some good tech there. You should get a pressure washer for such a fine write up and photo assay.

I'm lookin for an extra grab rail cosmetic condition not that critical. PM if you got one you want to sell. Thanks -Mark

that's where I bought my XX 10 years ago. I fookin drive there myself dude! PM sent with Contact info

Hell yeah!!! Just for fun pick up 70 lbs. of weight and walk around for a while, or even climb some stairs as a reminder of how it used to be. Right on! I agree. Pick up 70# and remind yourself what it felt like. I droped out's the 300# range this year too! feels great don't it!?!?!?!?!

Dont listen to those scrawny little bastids! I would not use any pre-load or just enough to put a little tension on it. These spring guys are setting you up for right at perfect. Pre-load should not be needed except to keep it all in place.

That may have been me. I posted something like that some time back. NO WHITE GAS! That will get right passed the o-rings and may hurt them too. Not to mention explode on a whim. Do what you will but when you got a stuck bolt what do you put on it? WD-40! It's a penetrent! I have at least 8 cans of WD-40 around my shop as I love the stuff but none of goes on an o-ring chain. http://wd40.com/Brands/wd40.cfm read the first paragraph......"Penetrent" Just my opinion here but I would never spray that on my chain.......someone mentioned spraying it on the sock and wiping with it and I would do that but consider what it costs versus kerosene. this and fie dola gets you a latte at Starbucks...but I heard they upped their game.

Sproket Specialists but they dont have the chewy rubber damper center $30.99

How about a $31 donation so your cheap ass can buy one! You might try the VFR board as tyhey are the same on some models.

Gotta use your big boy muslces. No special tools.

Not to brag but myself and a brit XX owner by the name of John Williams helped Mr. Salvisberg spec out the original shift kit in 98' Mr. Willims has sinced moved on but I've had a detent roller bearing in my XX for almost ten years and have not missed a shift yet. Tops. The stars a little bit newer but anyone who knows Factory Pro knows they are aces. If I was buy a dyno it would be his. His website has laods of info. I dont think he sleeps as he also is a Mille R guy and has done good stuff with it too! http://www.factorypro.com/

No! You can still wash parts with gas next to the water heater. Firemen need stuff to do too! OK maybe not a better way but another way!

Speigler lines here. They work real well. You can feel them better. The LBS is a bitch to bleed though. http://www.spieglerusa.com/ Worth it

Looks like it works on some tires. I did not recognize that tire. If they were thin straps like the $0.99 ones at harbor freight then I dont see why not. I'm gonna try it. BTW - there is a much better way of getting the tire (any tire) to bead up. once you get the tire on use a ratchet strap arond the middle of the tire circumventionally and tighten it up. It pooches the tire wall out and once you hit it with air the beads will catch. You dont risk blowing yourself up that way. hehehehe

No, no no! The point is that this is not that complicated at all. I was just trying to point out that if you are truly "wallowing" due to the damping in your gold valves you have options. That's why I asked about the sag, and oil height and I forgot to mention you must balance the front and rear. A really stiff rear can push the front around madly. Wallowing comes from the following: oil level too low not enough low or high speed compression damping spring rate too soft not enough pre-load dirt in valving, broken, bent or a bur on the piston damping rod bushing worn out compression valve o-ring broken damping rod not attached to cap I'm a motorcycle racer trapped in a lumberjacks body. 275#, 1.0 kg/mm, 10mm pre-load, spring in the front with 2.5 wt. oil and a 5,3,2 stack on my compression valve, I only added one shim to my rebound valve and I got 27mm sag. I have an Ohlins on the rear and a big nasty spring on it and my damping turned way down soft. There are some super smart suspension folk out there and they all have one thing in common.......they like to treat this stuff like it's some black art or something. "You can do it!" Yes I'm on vacation but if you guys want more info than you'd ever care to view on this stuff I'll keep posting.