MadOx

The front sprocket from the factory has some kind of molded in material that looks like a buffer between the splined drive shaft (ID) from the motor to the outer sprocket where the chain teeth are. Time for a new sprocket/chain set but I see no two material sprockets out there. Do you need the buffer? If so is there anywhere to buy one except a factory one from Ron Ayers or somebody? Thanks

I finally bit the bullet and bought what was the "one or two left" at Micron for the XX. Full race system and UPS delivered it this morning. The 2002 bike is stock except for the new exhaust. What about mapping, Power Commander, etc? I am a pretty good wrench but I know nothing about this. Now I need to sell the two Two Bros Titanium cans I have. I hope the Mocron sounds as good as they do?

I live in middle TN and go east to the Dragon and outreaching areas twice a year on the XX. Two falls ago I went up and rode 3 hard days with some guys younger than me. Fast enough that on the way home I'm thinkin I am gettin too old for this shit. Make it home after several back road diversions and unload, back to work and ride the Bird in a couple of days. I finally get a chance to clean it up good and in the Saturday morning daylight at the edge of the garage door there is a shiny spot way up high on the side of the (Dunlop StreetSmart) tire that only see real wear in East TN. I start to yank and work around the edges and finally pull out a 1.5 inch piece of 3/8 rough round steel. Don't know what it is but when I finally pull it out the tire goes completely flat in two seconds. I got this damn thing a week ago way over in a turn chasing some asshole! Been carrying it ever since. Thinkin about it. I am going to the 5PM Christmas candle lighting tomorrow. Christmas Eve! Thank ya Jesus!

Add new brake and clutch fluid to your maint.

I posted up some time ago about a problem with a hot bike that would not restart and the trip meter went to zero. I got a lots of good feedback about battery, grounding etc but I replaced the battery 7 years old and all is well. 2002 XX. If the battery is even almost old replace it and then start looking for other things. The battery tried to tell me and bless it's little heart it started most of the time. Bless her heart! Love this damn thang!

That's what I'm talkin about. Thanks to you all. The battery is 7 years old so I'll go get another and check the stuff you guys mentioned. The Bird has always been so trouble free it's a next stage of life to realize that it's time to look into things I have not needed to before.

It's an intermittent problem which makes it harder to fix but here it is. Seems to happen mostly when it hot, if the bike cools it's OK. I turn on the key switch and when I hit the starter it sounds like an almost dead battery as the starter barely turns over. At the same time the odometer goes from mileage to 0 and the clock changes to another very different time. It's like the electrical system shuts down for 1 second and them comes back up. I have to bump it off to get started. Thought at first it was the battery going dead but after it cools it starts up great. Any ideas? Thanks

Sorry. $8600

I am selling my 2009 Concours because I have too many big bikes and want to start downsizing to a dual sport (KLR). It is a nonABS model which I prefer as I want control of whether the back tire can be locked or not (no comments please). After retiring last year I bought this bike and added the farkles below to prepare for a 7,700 mile, one month ride out of middle TN to the western states of the US. It was great and this was the bike to do it on with plenty of power, smooth ride, comfortable and it never even sneezed and just seemed to want more. The ultimate asphalt eater. Cee Baileys tall Euro Cut windshield. The 2010s raised the stock version but still not enough. All other brands were 0.187" thick and this one is 0.250". Stronger and keeps all wind buffeting off of you unless you want it electrically lower for warmer temps. Heaterz brand heated grips. Four settings and auto cutoff before the battery gets low if you forget to cut them off. Throttlemeister adjusted and works perfectly. Rear pegs are lowered 1.5". Wife is 6 feet tall as am I. Cee Bailey's saddle bag inserts so you can stop and take your stuff and leave the bags on. Very handy for travel. Cee Baileys plastic headlight armor. These lights are about $400 each if they are damaged by a piece of gravel. Coocase V36 Wizard rear center storage - 36 liter, water proof and locking. Factory bags have bright LED tail lights (red) and turn signals (yellow) installed. Rear visibility is greatly enhanced. Two Brothers pipe and stainless muffler. Sounds perfect to me. Everything else is stock. VIN JKBZGNB199A010254 Both tires are PR2s, rear is new PR2 with 200 miles on it and front is 80% with 500 miles. Oil and differential lubricants (synthetic) have been changed at the same time every 4,000 miles. I am second owner and the first had the 600 mile service done on time. I waited until 19k to have the 15k service done after reading about the valve adjustment being still in spec and it's a $650 job. It turned out at 19k that all valves were still perfect and right in the middle of the spec. A bullet proof engine. New air cleaner and new iridium plugs were put in at this service only 200 miles ago. There is nothing wrong with this bike and it is ready to go a long, long way. I did drop it in my garage on it's right side after my return from the trip so the mirror and most plastic on this side is new. The left side shows some bug strike marks and normal wear with none on the right. The left bag has a couple of scratches from my boot upon mounting. Front rotors replaced with 2010 versions under warranty, front tire pressure sensor was giving a low battery signal so also replaced under warranty. Have Diablo Black Color Rite touch up paint. Still in warranty until mid 2012.

WarChild had a link out there for a site that gave thye details on hoe to change plugs but it apprently no lonmger works. Anybody have this information?

I think I will let it sit for a while. Thanks for the info...........

My 02 XX fell over on the right side and I have all new parts on it and it looks fine now. But, in the middle of the lower RH cowl, at the bottom of the engine is a tab that is cast in to the engine to mount a threaded fastmener to the cowl. It broke off at the root so it's just hanging right now. Weld it (tig)? I hate to put that much heat near a gasket, sealing area. Can this metal be welded? Aluminum?

I ran these tires for 6,000 miles and loved them. Combination of road and Dragon. Perfect. Loved them and although I may regret it am trying Pirlellis thi season. You won't regret it.................

I got one about 6 months ago and looks great on my 02. However, I broke the thing installing it. The middle bolt hole on both sides is about 15 degrees shy of being where it should. Can't get the grommet/holder through it. The screen is very hard so it broke almost like a piece of glass. The folks I bought it from were very nice and sent me a new one free. You cannot see through it at all but it has never bothered me. When it is cold or I am going real fast I do lay on the tank but keep my eyes just over the screen. I don't think I could get my head that low but the people here apparently can. No problem at all.

The clunk is due to the fact that when the bike is idling the crankshaft is turning the transmission at the relative speed, clutch out. If you pull in the clutch in and immediately shift to first the gear the gear movement engages a spinning transmission. When you pull in the clutch this disengages the crank to trans and the trans slows down and eventually stops. No clunk and may even be hard to engage at first. No real damage. My suggestion is to get in the habit of pulling in the clutch and waiting 5 seconds. Reduces clunk which simply does not feel good.................