XX

+1

valve check? what's that? 48k and she still runs :wink:

normal

- no need to drain the slave, just figure a way to hang it while you take the cover off. - you don't need a puller to get it off, my bare hands took it off once i loosed the nut ;o) - for your other questions, i don't have answers except that in my mechanical ignorance i did it myself one weekday evening between commute days. oh yeah, i did use a torque wrench to screw things back together. good luck!

Lowes

Any ideas on this little chain of events? Oct 10th Monday I start my new motorcycle courier job. As training they give me a list of 30 locations to go find, park and then radio in. I set upon my way at 9am. After my 5th stop, 11:30am, my bike will not restart. I've ridden aprox 50 miles and stops not less than 3 miles apart and some 7-10 miles apart. Mainly streets with very little freeway. Turns over like a click click click. Call AAA and talk them into jumping me, it works, I ride home. That evening I replace the battery. I figure this would be the first guess, seeing the bike is a 2002 with 47,000 miles on it - maybe it's "just time for a new battery". Tuesday I start up on my training again, after my 5th stop, about 11:45 am, bike won't start. Same story as above. AAA jumps me, I ride it straight to my local dealer. Long story short, they don't answer their phones at this dealer. I checked my bike in on Tuesday Oct 11th and finally got a call from them on Wednesday Oct 19th and they can't find anything wrong with the bike!!!! I tell them to kiss my ass and check it again. They agree. They call me back on Thursday Oct 20th and still can't find anything. They tell me they checked the stator, the battery and the reg/rect and everything is fine. The guy says "maybe this bike just wasn't made for that many stops, it just doesn't have the time to re-charge the battery". And then they charged my 38 bucks. Now I'd believe this if it was a Suzuki, but I bought a honda for a reason... i don't think they'd make a bike that couldn't recharge the battery after starting and stopping 5 times in a 4 hour period. He also said, maybe when it happens again wiggle your ignition wires. WTF? He didn't check these wires I suppose? Could this be a problem with the starter? The starter button? My only additional electrical drain (for you techies) are a Kisan headlight modulator, and 2 led pin lights running constant and a power commander. Any thoughts or ideas? I really don't like having to ride around with jumper cables in my tank bag and worry about my bike not starting up again sometime in the future. ps oh yeh, the courier guy was cool, and i ended up quitting. all end well, as it looks as if i may start a business and sign a lease to do so in the next few weeks.

easy but tricky and the 2nd and 3rd time are much easier than the 1st! and someone to help is not mandatory but a huge difference. especially on the remount as you try to line the dang thing up for the axle insertion!

i don't. and i typically get between 25-30k from my chains. but i do use a hawkoiler ;o)

anyone know where i can find some of this kydex stuff?

+1

wish i could - don't got no centerstand, dealer failed to be brilliant enough to re-mount it after mounting my tbr 4-2-1 btw, commuted 100+ miles today and the superbrace really does make a difference as I don't have it on anymore!

kydex - never heard of it. where can i find some of this stuff?

I show up at the local cyclegear with 4 tires to change (mine and my buddies vfrs) off the bike. We got our tires at swmototires.com and brought them with us as well. They've changed their prices, if you don't buy the tires from them, the tire change is $30 and not $15. They are usually $40-50 MORE expensive. Except this weekend they have a sale going on that actually makes them competitive, especially since they will only charge me $15 to change each tire. BUT they don't have any of their advertised pilot roads in stocks.... hmmm, looks like I'll be shopping for a new tire change shop... dang, for $30 more i can ride into my dealer and have them do the whole job... too bad I don't trust them...

Folks, I've found that my superbrace is in the way of my front stand which is needed for various maintenance task most importanly the removal of the front tire every 4 months. So 1) I'm thinking of selling it, more to come... and 2) I need advice: I don't have an extra pair of fork protectors on hand, will be ordering from ron ayers soon (unless one of you that put your fork brace on actually slid yours off and didn't cut them off and would be willing to sell and ship them to me). ... and wanted to tap the expertise and creativity of the board for some ideas for temporary fork protectors.... ideas? thoughts? tia

i did that also when i got mine 35,000 miles ago :wink:

All normal complaints and spoken concerns. In fact, wait until it hits 240, you thought it was hot before?! :shock: Recent post from a guy that hit 251 or something like that and the bike turned itself off.....

damn good idea! What's the weight of the RG oil and where can i get some, i've been using 85wt synthetic Mobil1 Post some pics of your resevoir hiding place and your push button, to share!

85W synthetic oil dispensed manually via my hawkeoiler, my chains go about 25k until getting noisy and then getting replaced.

cheap and fast screen shots created for charts of two different maps. make less sense now? :shock: ps - so you got more power AND better gas mileage?

pics fixed above. note that when you throttle off you fall back thru the chart diagonally and upward throttle lowering and rpms falling. ps leaner runs hotter fyi 8)

been there, done that. PITA and doesn't alleviate any engine heat. standing at a light, it helps a tiny tiny bit with heat on the legs. and mostly for the passenger. all in all, imho, a big PITA not worth it.

pc3 (non usb), 2002 XX, 4-2-1 full large oval TBR can, k&n air filter. The first 2 pics are the custom map done by a dealer (Orange County Triumph in Santa Ana, CA) with bike on a dyno. The 2nd 2 pics are my modified maps. Any suggestions are further tweaks are welcome but this map has seemed to make a difference for me while not being twitchy when coming off the throttle. I decided to try this when i was commuting 79 miles one way to work and was having to get gas more than 1 time per day (i'm running a 16T front sprocket btw) and need that extra 10-15 miles per tank to get all the way home With regard to get better gas mileage with a pc, if you have a map loaded that is supposed to modify the ecu for more power, you'll note how rich some of the rpm ranges are for example in the low end throttle and low end rpm. The gov't asks (requires?) that the manufacturers lean the crap out of the ecu map for emissions and mpg therefore the bike wants it richer to put out it's best power (i.e. worse gas mileage) - the custom power map gives it back to the bike. enjoy! ps is everybody getting red x's?

tweak the map for mpg and load your mpg map when you want better mpg (like on your commute vs in the twisties). or build a hybrid map that gives you peak performance for acceleration from stop and roll on, but lean, great mpg, at cruising steady rpm and throttle position. i did it, it must be easy ps btw i've not gone more than 25 points leaner than the base map done on the dyno by the dealer, but i've gotten another 7-8 mpg out of her tweaking it.

:needpics:

nice! i loved that look when i had my '97. 8) davidw '02XX