IcePrick

If you don't get any takers, bring 'em over. I can manage halfway between "professional" and "hacksaw".

Careful doing business with the Canadian. He's an international grocery thief.

If they can make it onto I-75, maybe you can meet the courier at an exit. If not, I'll take them at Jennings.

Take your time packing it up for me, I'm not in any hurry to install it. Does anyone live close to you that will be going to RedNeXXt or WiXXT? ...or RacerXX? They'll probably be driving right by, and if not, I can get it from them.

If it seems to be spinning relatively freely, I would add some interference to the socket-extension interface - maybe some painter's tape on the extension before plugging it into the socket, just enough to make it difficult to engage. Then, while spinning the socket/extension, pull on it enough so the extension won't decouple from the socket, but enough to (hopefully) remove the socket. A 7/16 standard thread machine screw will *almost* fit in a 3/8 socket. If you can keep the socket from turning, the threads will catch enough to pull it out. You may have to take a file and taper the first thread or two, but it will work. The epoxy idea sounds good, but you may not have to get that extreme yet. Be careful not to get any of the epoxy on anything else, or it may be permanent .

Damn, there are always some nice items of apparel for sale here very reasonably. I wish there were fewer manly-men here, and more girly-men like my size to off their finer apparel.

Got it. I didn't get it out last week, but I'm off this week so I'll get it done.

I should be able to get it out this week.

Sold again! In light of the above info, just FYI all brass is once-fired from P229 SIGs. PM me your address and I'll send you the shipping cost with my PayPal address. I'll probably do one of the USPS "if it fits" boxes. I'll second the notion on case gauges. I got in the habit of that when reloading 30-06 for service rifle, some really bad things can happen if a cartridge doesn't seat properly and the bolt doesn't lock into battery. Gauges cost a little up front, but when you're having controlled explosions right next to your face - good insurance. I have gauges for everything I actively reload at the moment - 9mm, .45ACP, .223, and .308 - and won't start up on another round until I have gauges. I think of the things I used to reload when I was a kid, it's amazing there weren't any catastrophes considering all the things I didn't know. Ignorance is bliss... I didn't know that about the design of .40 brass. Same for .357 SIG, I would guess? .40 case pressures are also notoriously high, likely exacerbating the problem. In my case, for what I reload, most of it is for target shooting and designed to do no more than meet minimum power factor. Just my take on it, factory ammo is too consistent and reliable to bother with working up reloads for self-defense.

SOLD!!!

Between KPD and ours, I have all I could ever need and more. Better than throwing it away. I cringe when I hear brass hitting the bottom of a dumpster. Best news of all - KPD just switched to .45ACP. And they have some bolt-action shooters that shoot nothing but match .308 ammo.

Cold, wet, raining... perfect day for sorting brass. Don't know if anyone here is into reloading the .40, but I have several thousand rounds of once-fired. Not cleaned. Remington, Federal, and some Winchester. You pay the shipping. I've decided that reloading 9mm, .38, .357, .44 Mag, .45 ACP, .45 LC, .223, and .308 is enough fun. I'd love to have a 10mm, 45-70, .357 Sig, and maybe a few others, but what I have now will probably be the extent of it. Just keeping track of what powders I have on hand is a chore already. If VLTOR ever completes their Bren Ten project, I'll have to cave on the 10mm, but I think I have my calibers selected for quite some time otherwise.

That's what the model designation is. The "w" indicates '97. It's on your paint code sticker on the subframe.

I was doing some research and found this. Some interesting info. http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

Dave - is this all stainless or is it the aluminum frame? I don't know Kimber's line very well. Loved the original Ultra CDP, the one that looked like it was made out of butter and got put in the microwave for 30 seconds. http://www.gunauction.com/search/displayit...itemnum=5324720 Like hen's teeth to find, though.

Walt - make sure you get the price first. "We'll agree on a price later" roughly translates to "anal" in Yiddish.

For rear signals, I took my OEM Honda signals and installed clear lenses. I installed red LED 1156s and added an amber LED "ring" that goes on around the base of the 1156 for the turn functionality. The result is a running light in each turn signal stalk, and the LED amber flasher is positively eye-popping in combination with it. I suppose you could set the 1156 up to be a brake light and have no running light. I have previously set up 1157s with amber lenses (front take-offs from my SuperHawk) to function as rear running (amber) and turn signals (amber). I haven't attempted it yet (too many other projects), but I was thinking of using an OEM take-off front from the SuperHawk and setting up a 3-wire (1157) LED with the amber LED ring for the rear. That would give you red running lights, red brake lights, and an amber turn all in one light - all in an OEM-looking package. I'll post some pics later of the 1156 with the amber LED ring. I'll have to look through some old receipts to find where I got the amber rings, but they positively rock. I had to take them off the BlackBird due to clearance issues with the luggage racks, so I went to HyperLites and swapped the 1156/amber rings to the SuperHawk. *edit* I was incorrect, I set them up so the signals illuminate in red when the brakes come on, they are not running lights. I think these are they. If not, pretty close: http://www.electricalconnection.com/other-...r&sport.htm

Go to the VFR Discussion site and post a wanted ad. I had a pair in an hour over there.

Damn, that thing is clean!

The bags themselves will be less of an issue than the actual XX specific mounting system, but I'll check them out, thanks. Mike, yes, still on a Bird, or more correctly, back on a Bird. Thanks for the heads up on David Silver. Factory hard bags seem a little fancy for my application, but if the price is right... Yeah, and the price may not be palatable. What do the Givis and mounts cost? My setup was $666 shipped several years ago, but I don't think the Givi hits that. I think the exchange rate has improved, but the price may have gone up.

If you're still on a bird, the exchange rate might make the OEM XX bags from Davidsilverspares.com worth a look. I ended up calling them to confirm a shipping price, and they guy sold me a set of blue ones at a discount. I rattle-canned them black. I don't know how many liters they are, but they look great, come off easily, and the mount doesn't look terrible when they're not on the bike. I think the big variable is the exchange rate. Maybe a deal, maybe not.

Wow. Love the Candy Glory Red, and with those miles, it's practically new. Best of luck, sorry you're moving on from the XX.

Ha! You never saw my taillight, but I saw plenty of yours! I just have the 2357 bulbs in a red lens. I'd like a clear lens with some eye-popping LEDs that would strobe a few times before going solid, like Mikey's. The rear turn signals/flashing brake lights I have are Hyperlights.

A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Alan, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort. ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power. The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees; the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description. Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC* Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: Carbed bikes: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. FI Bikes: I took a look at Stan's ZXXX, and he used the stock throttle/switchgear. He made it work by using the cables from a carbed XX - they're long enough to make the difference. Bonus for FI conversions. Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons. Problem: If you don't want to raise your bars a lot, these won't work - if you try to lower them, there will be interference issues with the brake banjo bolt. Stan has some very nice alternatives, I'll ask him to post the source. I don't see why RC51 or 929 clip-ons wouldn't work - or virtually any 50mm clip-ons, for that matter. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. *Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head *Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Rear Axle Spacers: stock#? * - waiting on these as the rear brake isn't fully sorted yet. I don't believe the problem is related to the components, but I don't want people to buy things only to find I have a component miscalculation. Prices/Sources: Forks: I got mine from the folks in Canada that make the T-Rex conversions - they have a lot of zero-mile take-offs. I paid $750 shipped for the entire front brake setup including rotors and rotor bolts, along with the forks, axle, spacers, and complete ZX14 triple (which I ended up not using). Front Brakes: See above. 929 Lower Triple with stem: I can't find the eBay receipt for mine, but I think it was $175. There is one up now for $200 - patience and a long-term acquisition plan is the key to frugality on these. RC51 SP-1 Upper Triple: $38 shipped from eBay. I know it was a felony. ZX10R Wheels: Keep an eye on eBay. I think I got a deal on mine for $350 shipped, and I sold the rotors for $110. I did bearings on both ends because the rear was totally shot. I should have done the cush drive as well. Rear Brakes: I just saw a complete rear brake setup - pedal, master, line, caliper, and mount/bracket - for $75 BIN on eBay. Sprocket: Indysuperbike.com. $102 shipped. I had a hard time finding this, and finding it cheap wasn't happening'. But it is a SuperSprox, which is generally a premium-priced sprocket. Controls: SuperHawk (VTR 1000) start/kill and throttle housing on eBay. I think if you spend $50 shipped for both that's a lot. For an FI bike, a set of used carb cables shouldn't be too burdensome. Clip-ons: Danmoto.com. $99 shipped via eBay, if you order off the website you pay $99 plus shipping. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT on eBay. $158 shipped, here in three days. From China. In three days, for chrissakes. From China. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com, $60 shipped. To Do: measure brake spacers (length, id, and od) measure caliper mount bolts identify rear axle spacer steering stops - not. Assembly narrative Narrative notes: (under construction) While I was thinking of filing down the lock pin for the steering lock to allow it to properly mate with the holes in the steering head (the steering won't turn as far with the new triples, as the offset is less), Stan suggested taking a die grinder to the holes instead. Simple problem, simple solution. One idea is better. Guess who? Steering stops: I haven't addressed this yet - haven't seen the need. Still looking for a rear master cylinder solution. The ZX10 brake is either too weak for the weight of the XX or the pedal effort is too high for another reason (using the correct m/c for the ZX10). Maybe a larger m/c, and maybe get really lucky to find one that fits the XX bolt holes. A consultation with Stan arrived at the conclusion that the setup I have should work - there's some other performance issue. I have to tear it down completely and diagnose.

Okay, suffering from clear LED tail light envy after another meet. Where did you get the LEDs? I'll try chopping mine up and soldering shit.