runninn

Idea of the cause? Could it involve the Speedo Healer? Is the failure the sensor often itself? This is the first time it's happened in 12+ years of ownership. Thanks

I assume this is a PM? Anyways, cell or text #? I will fwd a bank check & you can wait for it to clear... (I am in Nashville TN)

Let me know your contact info....

Let me know how to contact you....thanks

What bags work for those who use them? I have run the expandable RKA's for 7+ years, yet I am tired of the zippers messing up. Most have the capacity to store full-face helmet when going to work or store. thanks

Redxx is close... a weight reduction program could get expensive real quick.

The problems you are having are similar to my old troubles.... went to the JAWS delink system. After 2 years I am still glad I did....

Fixed? What happened?

I had the same symptoms this past spring. 2nd bird & have ridden these bikes for 10 yrs. Anyways, it WAS the slave cylinder seal as mentioned above. I ended up just buying a used slave cyl since I got a great deal ($25 !). I flushed the entire clutch system and it's been perfect. Moral of story... change all fluids at least every other year (brakes & clutch fluid).

I went thru this once... that was more than enough. I never was that impressed w/the linked brakes. The JAWS delink kit solved the issue ....

Speedo correction (one of my first purchases 10 years ago)...."Speedohealer'....and Byron Hines for motor work (or Nitrous).

Follow-up to my follow-up. It was cheaper to go with a used slave cylinder found on ebay. I had ordered the seals...yet they turned out to be the wrong size (I will take the blame for trusting the vendor). Anyways, for half the price of the seals I replaced the entire slave cylinder. Clutch works perfect now...

12.6 to 12.8 with a (1-2 volt drop) on start-up. I run a battery tender approx. once a week. Is it charging 13.5+ when running? Our batteries have sudden deaths. I got 4 years out of the last one... until it quit.

Background info....why were the carbs out in Berrymans? Was this happening before the carb soak?

Sometimes you are able to carefully straighten them...I will let others chime in on this one. How badly is it bent?

It ended up being the slave piston seal. Now if I can find a rebuild kit....thanks

I was going ahead and changing the fluid to take care of the 'air' problem....it's not happening today! After I pulled the reservoir cap it was virtually empty! The sight glass appeared full but was actually covered in grey sludge. The bottom fourth of the reservoir had sludge....where in the world did it come from? I am almost fanatic about maintenance but this hit me like a brick. Loss of almost all of the clutch, sludge & no fluid. I am thinking a leak allowed dirt into the system & built up over time. This weekend I plan to pull the clutch slave & replace the seal, clean the reservoir & replace the clutch line. Suggestions? Anyone ever seen this reservoir sludge buildup before? thanks

Bike sat 2months due to travel. What is the easiest bleed method to restore clutch firmness?i already tried the traditional bleed method and am thinking back-bleed next. Suggestions? thanks

What tool or method have you used to pull the caliper piston seals w/out damaging the bore? Helpful ideas? thanks!

Today's update. After actuating the mechanical Secondary MC (front wheel) it appears only the front piston is working in the rear caliper (both outers are supposed to work). Some gunk does appear on the pistons so its caliper rebuild time. I have already pulled the caliper & am in the process of pulling the pistons to clean them as necessary. Suggestions on a caliper rebuild? I am planning to use brake fluid & really fine sandpaper (jewelers type) to clean the pistons. Is seal replacement recommended? thanks

Used Mityvac to vacuum bleed...possible air pocket?

Sorry to start a new thread...but I have this thing apart in the rec room & know someone has a logical answer. (Wife is gonna kill me if I don't get it moved....) Brakes still sticking...determined it's the outer (2) pistons as I see the inner retract while watching the actuation. Changed to hi-temp Motul 600, cleaned pins, greased secondary MC, etc. The kicker is that I open the BACK rear bleed valve and the pads retract properly. Something is obviously restricting the flow & opening the bleed valve relieves the pressure. If the MC return (rear ...under the bodywork) is gunked up, how can it be cleaned? (Fluid was changed) Other ideas where it would work OK by opening the rear bleed valve? thanks!

May start a new thread...need a reply...

What soft tiedowns do you use to transport the bird? It's been so long I forget...I am off to trackday soon and am looking for good soft tiedowns or an equivalent. thks

I always change the clutch fluid by pushing it up from the slave cyl. It's messy (use rags), but you get all the air out. Takes all of 30 seconds and works great...