CalamariKid

OK, for those that are interested, be forewarned that deciding to hook the power commander cord to the positive terminal after replacing a battery does not give added horsepower, nor does it give a smoother sounding engine, attract women in thong bikinis, nor will it improve your social standing, it meerly won't fucking work. On the bright side, once the cranium is effective dislodged from the anal orrifice and the wire is connected to the negative terminal you will at least get a running blackbird. I am officially a dumbass.

Right, does not fire.

Going to work earlier this week I shut the engine down at a train crossing, once the train left and I went to start it up, no worky. Got a new battery from Wally World, charged it overnight and it still won't start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I hooked up a jumper, but still nothing so I don't think it is the battery. I believe I've ruled out a bad neutral, clutch, and kick-stand sensor prob. Not sure if it matters, but I've got a power commander on it. Any thoughts?

I have had the same experience with them (after stupidly throwing one pair away). Since so many people use these for motorcycling I wish they would come out with a set with a more robust cord, but at least I know I can get them replaced if they go bad...

Holy crap! I must ride like a lunatic! I only got 10K miles out of my chain and sprockets!

Hire someone.

Too help with vibration in the bars try heavier bar ends.

Yes and yes. You can plug headphones in directly, but I found that I need an amp (boostaroo does fine) to get decent sound level out of it. The prob I had with the roady and the roady 2 is that it seems the vibration from riding caused constant probs in getting sound to the earphones.

God bless the person who came up with the Apple Fritter.

Man! I thought I was the only one who does this! Here's a tip, when you drop them into the cooler, just make sure the queen is not with them and they will not nest. I used to count them as well until I spent four days looking for 7 of them (searched the cooler, the garage, it was a nightmare). Finally did some more research and found that the little bastards are cannibalistic in the right environment! Argh! Well, now I just use a light power vaccum to clean out any stragglers and have not had any problems.

After draining the oil for 45 minutes in a humidity and temparture controlled garage (68 degrees, 17%-23% humidity) I remove the engine crack the case and clean the inside with a SOFT toothbrush. The Braun electric is very good for this. Working my way through the engine, I then use a hose cleaner I purchased from a fish store to clean the inside of all the applicable hoses. Once everything is clean, I put a LIGHT film of oil on all surfaces prior to re-assembly. You can use your bare finger for this, just of course be sure you wash ALL the dirty oil off before hand and clean using a MILD soap and rinse and dry your hands THOROUGHLY prior to starting the application. Some people use latex gloves for this part, but I think that's just being anal. Anyway, using this procedure I have had over 6,000 miles of trouble free useage of my engine.

The dude that owned the bird before me is offering up his V&H carbon slip-ons to me at a decent price. What's the lowdown on these? I currently have stock on. I've done a search, but did not come up with much of anything on the V&H's.

Very cool! Thanks for sharing!

Nice jobs! I SUCK at painting. Going to get a friend to help me paint my SV track bike this winter. Some minor body work needs to be done also. I can do the body work but just can't paint worth a damn.