Redbird

Looks better than chrome, IMO, but never again.

In the mid-90's I had a V-Max I made the mistake of polishing a bunch of crap on- pretty much everything aluminum. It looked badass when it was fresh, but was a huge mistake. Unless better products have been developed in the last 20 years or so (entirely possible), clear coat doesn't adhere well to a full polish. It'll go to shit pretty quick. Unless the bike never sees rain, condensation or moisture of any kind, upkeep is constant. NeverDull, polishes, and waxes help but need to be reapplied almost constantly for a regularly ridden bike. Even just sitting in a non-climate controlled garage shit will start to dull up after 2-3 weeks. I ran into the guy I sold the bike to about a year later and he hadn't done the upkeep- it looked like complete shit. Bare aluminum is a straight up pain in the ass on any bike that actually gets ridden.

Polished aluminum is a bitch to maintain, especially on a piece with detail like the gas cap. Your best bet is to stop short of a full, chrome like finish and leave some texture for either clear coat or some other finish to adhere to. In your position I would finish stripping it with no intent to "polish" and then apply a fuel resistant finish.

This is key. Read the thread I linked.

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?/topic/19830-instant-chain-stretch/

Correct, and just the lids have been coated.

Oh shit...Bill, you know the bags are covered in bed liner, right? I just read our PM's and I don't see me mentioning it there, though I would have sworn I did somewhere. Totally my bad if that didn't get covered, I had a lot of transactions related to parting the bike out going on for a bit. I still haven't cashed your check. If the bed liner is a deal breaker let me know and I'll return it.

I've seen carbon fiber stick on covers, I think i might have almost bought some before I decided to powdercoat everything black instead. But that was around 15 years ago. So someone did make them at some point.

Canadian bike? Don't see the grey frame and wheels in the U.S. much, nor the "Dual CBS" stickers.

You could just tape over the Suzuki logos and tell yourself it's a Superhawk, only much better.

Good to see the old girl is still chugging along. We had some good times.

Bump. Updated the list, body kit is now sale pending.

I have a complete pump assembly from a 2002 here. Drop me a PM if you're interested and I'll pull it out of the tank and make sure it looks better than yours.

Sorry, forgot about this. Both front pegs are here and in decent shape. A bit dirty but rubber is intact and not showing much wear. Drop me a PM and I'll get them to you, cheap.

Yes, I believe both front pegs are here, will confirm next time I'm out in the garage. The bodywork, yes, it's a complete set, but it ain't silver anymore. See original post for explanation. Shipping a whole body kit to Oakland would probably offset any deal I could offer you, anyway. And I'll be honest, I'm really trying to avoid having to box all that shit up.

Yep, that's the one. When you said FL I thought maybe you were talking about John's. His '01 is definitely nicely done, but not on the level of Howie's, who is in CA. IIRC He had an in at TSR and maybe another Japanese aftermarket manufacturer. A lot of what's on that bike was hard if not impossible to find back then, never mind now. I'd also guess there was way more than 15k into it. You best bet would probably be to find that bike, buy it, then paint it blue. Anything else will be second best.

Search XRdracer (Howie). His XX was by far the trickest, most expensively modded that I've ever seen. Best example of a no holds barred, money no object everything top of the line XX you'll find, lots of ideas to be had there. He sold it, I think Stan might be the one who bought it. Me personally, I'd spend a lot on brakes, suspension and weight reduction. Don't know that I could get to 15k without going with a full Ohlins front end w/custom triples, Brembos, etc. Motor is good enough without internal mods, IMO.

My limited input- sheet metal will work, but I'd definitely go stainless on that. Given that it sounds like you intend to use a fairly light gauge, some sort of construction adhesive might be worth looking into rather than poking a bunch of holes in it.

I found out the hard way that you are correct. First leg day back I played it safe and did 4 sets of 60 unweighted squats just so I was doing something. I was walking funny for the next three days, like I hadn't done legs at all in weeks. That wasn't the only leg stuff I did, but it was the only thing that was different, trashed my quads and glutes.

Phillip, you've got dibs on the listed parts with the exception of the right switch pod. It's not on the bike so I might have sold it already and forgot. It might also be somewhere else here, if it is, it's yours. We'll work out pricing between now and March- I'll be nice Oh, and whatever I end up left with will not go in the dumpster. After this sell off whatever is left will get stored here. The main point was to free up the space in the garage, with the motor gone that will become much easier. Now someone make me an offer on the bodywork. That shit takes up a lot of space.

Ah, then he bought himself another week and now you have a firm deadline with nothing more invested. Not horrible.

Did you make the drive before he blew you off? If so, fuck that guy, list it now and send him the link.

I have most of the fasteners. I think a few went to Toxxic, but what's left is all in a bowl on my work bench. I'll bring it with.

Hey, it's inefficient, but free. Assuming we get Hobie on board. Bill, I dug out the rack and bags, no sign of the hardware yet. That said, it's nothing that a trip to your local Ace probably won't solve. The rack mounts at the grab handle and rear pegs, it's most likely just a matter of sourcing slightly longer bolts of the proper thread.

Krypt has dibs on the tool strap if it's here.