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redxxrdr

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Everything posted by redxxrdr

  1. redxxrdr

    FI

    Loom fix from useful threadsOn my 01, the code jumper was concealed in a larger plastic wire cover ( think open ended thick plastic bag). i had to remove the tail fairing to find it.
  2. John, have you used this yet? does it allow you to keep your OEM stator connector? I have had a mosfet R/r sitting on the shelf for over a year, looking for connectors that would let me keep the stator plug OEM for a " just in case" field swap if I had a failure. Going to order one today anyway. But I had to ask. Thanks for the link.
  3. I have always come in from the top. I pull the battery, then rotate the tank up on a pad in the battery recess. pull the air filter top, airfilter, coil mounting screws and the venturies. There are a couple of sensors that unplug. You can now remove the bottom of the breather box. put clean towels or paper into the intakes now. I can't sink a basketball anymore, but drop a screw, and down the intake it will go. I then do one plug at a time. Use the plug wrench that comes in the tool kit. It works well.
  4. Oscar wrenches for a living. I certainly trust his experience. Much of my fuel dilution experience has been with older VW engines. 3 quart capacity. 2.5 in the engine, .5 in the air cleaner. Doesnt take much fuel to damage those engines. Same with smaller lawnmower engines. Here is a old thread on theTurbo City FpR. They don't appear to make a xx version anymore. But one poster states that you can get the upgraded fuel rail pressure by installing the 01 up FPR. It is a easy job. But use two wrenches. One on the fuel rail, one on the FPR.
  5. Injector sticking could do it. pull the dipstick and smell. Should have no gas smell. I would not run it without changing it first. OEM or quality oil filter? They should have a internal check valve ( rubber flapper) that prevents oil from leaking back into the crankcase. also, how and when did you check it. 5 minutes after running, dip stick not screwed in, or after a night off, dipstick fully screwed in. Any of the above could cause a measurement change. But even a short run with diluted oil will ruin a engine. Edit, I remember reading that the FPR diaphram can tear and allow fuel to leak. You should be able to remove the vacuum hose off of the regulator. No fuel should be in it. If so, bad FPR. A
  6. Brake button cleaning i have no rotors, but this process did remove a slight pulse on my bike. Might be worth a try
  7. Chains stretch in sections. You can have one area too tight, move the wheel a revolution and have another area too loose. I follow the "try to pull the chain rearward" off of the rear sprocket method. If you can see a large gap between chain and sprocket anywhere during the full length of the chain, replace it. If not, I try to find the place on the chain that has mid wear. Not too tight, not too loose. I adjust at that place.
  8. I don't know about the Ti color, but the 2001 red is a candy, and needs the correct base coat to come out right. I think the same thing is true for the 2003 black. It has some type of silver in it. I would double or tripple up on the clear coat. The red coat is easily scratched.
  9. I didn't see a model year in your post. I don't have a extra, but I think that there are a couple different colors
  10. I use green scotchbrite pads and wd40 at work to remove surface rust. If that were mine, I would try to eBay a replacement pump assembly. I got a clean 2002 assembly last year for around $200.00. Get a flashlight and inspection mirror and check your tank. The pump assembly is the lowest thing there. Hopefully you got lucky, and the water and damage is only in the pump assembly. I thought that the tanks were plastic coated inside. Like tank sealers used to restore old fuel tanks. Because of this, I would leave any mild surface rust and run with it. Fuel doesn't cause rust, water trapped in corn squeezins does. I would prefer having most of the protective liner, and surface rust, instead of a tank with no liner at all. post pictures of the tank and good luck
  11. Tom, Do you have the pump out? Here is a picture of the pump, with a cheap straight filter behind it. I freed a stuck gsxr pump by spraying B laster into it and using jumper wires to forward and reverse the motor. Gsxr is a little different because the pressure regulator mounts directly to the pump, INSIDE the tank. I would pull that fuel line from pump to filter and add b laster to the pump. Let sit, the forward and reverse the polarity with jumpers. It may just be sludged up and need a good cleaning.
  12. When you are very, very, so very tired and blow into a filter with a 180 degree loop on the end. 😔 You get a face full of fuel 😝
  13. Will also did the conversion years ago. A really good search might find his post. I really miss him and Redd. Or you could get a 01 and higher that came with LEDs in the cluster.
  14. Kill switch? ive forgotten it before. plus, if you have to go into the pump, I would change the filter. The filter seems to have resolved the intermittent stumble issue that I had. Five tanks and counting with no more issues. Two types of filters shown for the Redbird. One with a metal curved pipe on one end,(50 bucks). And one with a straight end with the curved part that attaches to the filter. Straight filter has almost perfect replacements at Most auto parts stores. Guess which one I had. 😡 And for the dumb asses in the crowd, don't blow into the old curved filter to test it. Please don't ask me how I know😰 But a good one has almost no resistance.
  15. For me. cruise is nice. The audiovox replacement is now electronic. lighter wheels, the brand that Tim and John have/had on the red birds were nice, but I remember some teething problems. A higher wattage stator, with a automobile/ wing style regulator. ( design it and you could sell bunches of them). A well sorted out hid low beam like Eric did and a high end led high beam. Heated grips and power ports to take advantage of the new charging circuit. Modern design led taillight with pulse module. I like my rear to be seen. ThAt 4-2-1 exhaust with a mild tune turbo. I like quiet, and power. Suspension and brakes done by a knowledgeable vendor. This would really be high on my list. Get someone to build EXACT fairing molds to make some real carbon fiber replacements. Lighter and stronger than OEM. Again, sell copies to the rest of us. VFR bars. Spares..... fuel pump, filter, gauge sender, ECU, coils. Good parts are getting harder to find. $5k gas card. Goal to empty it in a year.
  16. Dodge cars of that year had already gone to electric pick up for speedo/ odo. neons were known to have cold solder joints at the base of the cluster where the connectors plugged in. I fixed a couple by running the connections with a soldering iron. The Lebaron had the same issue, and a sensor that screwed into the transmission that fails. My limited Google skills showed on guy who swapped out a sensor on his 92 to fix it. I would try cleaning connections at both ends if you don't find a cable drive.
  17. First, Welcome. People have put RC and ZX forks ( with wheels) on the XX. But not a straight bolt on. There were two different wheels over the years. I forget where the break over point was. Ill try to find and link one of the more recent threads on bleeding. It will probably have my experience in it. The process works, but the theory of the rear brake may be flawed. I remember a single side swing arm installed on a couple. And Stan made a awesome quad of one. Plus he did the ZX front end swap. The garage search engine does find many threads from the older forum format. Use quotes " " and generic words. And be prepared to read a lot of threads to find what you want. Also check out Useful thread section. Brake bleed thread Mikes ZX thread
  18. I have had the same with my 6. Rick mentioned that around 6, one phone setting acquires two images, and the forum doesn't like it. I never figured out how to turn it off, but I can resize with Windows and get pictures to upload.
  19. Don't forget to remove the exhaust. About 49 lbs , or 7 hp savings. And every Harley rider will tell you, loud ( and no ) pipes save lives.
  20. Old thread with petcock pictures Mine is FI, hope this helps
  21. The top of the image looks like you may have found your leak as well. Notice the slight rust line under the gasket? Clean off the mating surfaces, get a new gasket, and IF you choose to use RTV, use very little. Use the correct type coolant, at the proper mix and go with it. Edit, and remember to have your heater on when you are running and filling. Some systems circulate the water all the time. Some only with the heat on. This will make sure that the heater core is full too.
  22. Mike, does the truck have any temp gauge on the dash? does it move off of cold to the place you are used to seeing? If so, then you at least have coolant in the block. Heater cores get blocked. Most coolant systems will circulate water through the heater core before the thermostat opens fully. So if your gauge is moving, and you are getting some heat, I would assume some coolant flow. Check your oil. Engine, and transmission if equipped with a cooler. Water from a leak will give a milky white residue. If the oils / fluids look normal, I would worry less about a head gasket. Another symptom of head gasket failure is bubbling/ overflowing of the radiator with the engine running, cap removed. I have seen this described as looking like a volcano. Also, remember that coolant will slowly flow out of the radiator fill, cap removed, as the engine warms up. This is normal. In proper operation, just like your bike thread, the coolant should warm in the block first. Then the thermostat opens and coolant flows through the radiator. The whole system warms, and builds pressure as the coolant expands during heating. At some point, the pressure of the system will exceed the pressure rating of the pressure cap. The cap then allows the expanded coolant to vent to the overflow bottle. This venting stops when enough coolant has moved to lower the pressure. When the engine is off and cools, the system pressure will drop, and coolant in the overflow will be pulled back into the radiator. This all happens, assuming good seals on the radiator cap, a good sealed overflow hose,. And a overflow tank that isn't leaking. If there are leaks, you will only pump coolant overboard, and not pull it into the system for the next use. Not recovering the coolant will leave air in the radiator. This causes the system to heat faster, overflow some more and recover less the next time. I would first check that your gauge is working. Top off the radiator and take it for a drive. If the gauge doesn't show overheat, then let it cool and check your coolant level in the radiator again. It should be close to where it was when you filled it. If lower, then clean the seals on the cap and radiator, and inspect the overflow tank and hose.
  23. Well you made me look. I may work with electronics, but I replace, not repair displays. But now that you posted, you KNOW, that mine will soon fail.😱 Attached is is a Theory Link This looks like it could be a really involved process. Just wondering, Did your total miles move over when you swapped displays? Or did you swap the whole cluster? edit, it looks like the display is attached to the display board, so I bet you got the mileage of the replacement cluster.
  24. John, I have nothing.... But questions. You garage your bike right? Is the diffuser glass or plastic? Is it removeable from the LCD? Could it be polished with a headlight polish? Did you clean the display often or use something like armour all? My bike has 61k, but is stored in a carport. It doesn't show that problem. Niether does the SV, and it spent its early life outdoors. I hope to learn from this thread.
  25. I don't have one, but it is useful. Have you seen THIS? I think Philip, RXX bought one. edit after OMG post. Philip's mirror install. And Krypt Keepers.
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