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God daughter wanted help changing brakes on Ninja 650. Caliper mounting bolts over torqued and red lock tite. One bolt head rounding off with 6 point socket. I often see wrenches with cam or multiple pin heads shown on TV. Has anyone used these things with success? Heat has not helped. If no better ideas, reverse bits and patience.

I don't remember which port I used. I do remember that you must have a check valve installed in the vaccum line between the port and a accumulator canister. I ended up with a large canister to get the cruise to work right. I started with a ball cock float, and it was too small. I built one of pvc pipe. It was about the size of a 32 oz sport drink. A safety question? Your installation does use the ball chain? If not. Please install it. People who didn't experienced some exciting run away. Also, on my 01, the vacuum lines started cracking after ten years or so. I googled and replaced them with silicon lines.

Ahhh A whole bike. Not ready for another one yet.😁 I have Nikki's Ninja on my trailer right now. Trying to get it running again. Kirsten still riding the SV. But thanks. It sure is pretty. Do you remember the name of the company that could Rebuild them?

John Where did you find the NC one listed? I spoke to Joe during Racer XX, but he's didn't think he had one. Thanks, Craig

2001 up XX cluster. The fuel / odo side is fading. I pulled it down, and that lcd does not look to be replaceable. Thanks, Craig

I have seen a number of seafoam videos for crank case and top end cleaning. But my 4.3 's don't have top end rattle,and I don't have the nerve to try it on high mileage, but good running engines. The engines that I have torn down that had synthetic are really clean compared to the old ones that used dino oil

During the Dino oil days, I used one of the additives, slick 50 I think, in my Magna. Almost instant clutch slip. Dumped and went through two standard dino oil changes before slippage stopped. With many choices of synthetic oil available, why play games. The best advice is to check your levels before each ride.

This I know. And was doing at the time. I had also performed, and posted about performing planned maintenance on the fuel and ignition, just a few months ago. It was amazing how much crap came out of that tumbler The key that broke was a locksmith made extra. But the one that I used most often. The OEM turns the ignition easier than the one that broke. Wear or poor duplicate? Who knows? I'm just lucky that it broke close to home.

I did the same thing with my 1961 VW convertible during my south Florida days. Plus steering and shifter lock Top and interior parts are too hard to find on almost 60 year old cars.

Yes it is. But my instrument cluster is fading. I took it down , big lcd chip. Soldered in. Looking for a new cluster

Mike You are correct. Any trip of distance , I carry two keys. I haven't ridden in months, and got out of practice. Kirsten took off from work and brought me one of my OEM keys. Once home, a set of Kline close cutters grabbed and removed the broken part easily. Thanks for the ideas This is the second time that the bike has let me down in 18 years. First was a 3 in slit in my rear tire. Now this. POS Honda.

Not yet. Still at station. Waiting for daughter to bring me a spare key, so that I can ride it home. On a better note, I just got a text from my son. On a plane, leaving his deployment in afganistan. I'll go to Harbor Freight today and get some picks. Thanks

Key broke off in the gas cap. GEisme3 Bill is going to get me to a spare key. So what is the best way to get to the key? I figure remove tank and pump to access the bottom locking wedges. Then pull cap and take it to a lock Smith. Any better ideas?

Geisme3. Bill has a 2001 k1200rs. We were riding, and his fuel mileage went to shot. At one fill up, he started in front of us. I noticed that his right leg was being sprayed with fuel. Plastic disconnects, cracked. His bike did not fall into the known serials with failures.bmw wouldn't replace them. So he replaced them with a solid , barbed fitting. On the RS, you didn't need to pull the tank often, so this was a cheap, quick, fix

I never used the audio from my 550 on the bike. All the time with the car mount. For the bike install, I used the ball mount that came on the GPS packaging. I drilled and tapped the ball mount. For 1/4 20 threads. I had that size all thread on hand. Next, I removed the rubber plug from the top of the triple tree and lowered the all thread / ball mount into the hole. Pad the top of the fender to avoid scratching. Better yet remove fender. Measure the excess length of all thread sticking from the bottom of the tripple, then cut to allow a little of the all thread to show below the bottom. Remember to have a nut installed to chase the threads of the all thread before cutting. I also filed the bottom of the ball mount to match the square hole of the triple. A 1/4 in deepwell socket worked well to tighten the nut on the all thread below the triple.

I also remember that while dot 5 is not hygroscopic, water can still exist in the lines. Poor prep, high humidity when being filled, old open containers. The difference with dot 5 is that the water does not disolve into the fluid. Instead, the water collects in pools. The pooled water would promote rust in steel lines, and steam easier when heated. I seem to remember some AD notices concerning its use in aircraft. And people that I hung around refused to use it in race cars.

Mine delivered yesterday. I hope to have the XX together this weekend to test it. Thank you

Aircraft tubing is protected internally with linseed oil. I suspect that it would dilute in gasoline, when you get ready to use it. Or how about a small lamp, like those from a Christmas tree or nightlight. Drop it in, turn it on. Low , constant , heat should keep the tank dry. I used higher wattage bulbs in my catermaran hulls to dry them off season.

I have only gone up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket. Doing this, lets me use the standard lenght chain. The axle, is forward a little bit. Anyway you do it, the marks on the swingarm will now be for reference only. Pulling the axel forward will shorten the wheelbase slightly, and in therory, you might turn in a little better. But not enough to worry about. I would shorten the chain, only it you think that you will run out of adjustment before the chain wears out. As to the tire. I often put a new one on, if i think it could fail during a long trip. I just hate worrying about it. You could always remount the old tire later to use it up. ( but i never do)🙄

Digital dash does have a time clock. But it’s draw is probably in micro amps. Not enough to worry about. but then you knew that. 😄

Good to see you this week, Jon. Im going to see if my daughter can flat foot the bird with your seat. Thanks, Craig

As above, what does it do when you try to start. Does headlight come on with the key? Tender removed. And if you dont have a meter, buy one. They are invaluable in todays world. Remove the ground cable from the battery. 12.5-13 volts dc is a good start. Charge the battery overnight, still disconnected. Measure after a day, still disconnected. It still needs to be 12.5 or more. If less, probable bad battery. If more, connect the battery and monitor the voltage for a day. Keep the key off. Nothing on the xx will drop the battery. If it drops much, you have some troubleshooting. If not, monitor voltage with headlights on. Battery should still read over 12 volts . If not, probable battery. Next, monitor with starter running. A good battery may drop to 10 volts with starter running. Back to over 12 volts when you release starter. If not, probable battery. The sad thing is , batterys are different quality. My origional agm lasted over 7 years. Others 1-2 years. Im trying the high priced LiFePo battery now. I talked to John during Racer xx Thursday. His last lifepo lasted 7 years. So ill update my results in 2026,😎. Post up your results, and we can armchair more troubleshooting.

Tri flow is at any hardware store. I had never seen Houdini before. It was a recomended product by a larger local lock / locksmith shop. They recommend using very little tri flow after cleaning with Houdini. I had a couple times last year, where I didnt think that I would be able to refuel. I feel much better now. Of course the Ninja may require more effort. Her boyfriend seems to be good for her. But some of his mechanical efforts concern me.

God daughter's Ninja cant be fueled. Gas cap won't open. I stopped in a locksmith to get lube recommendations. I got two suggestions. A product called Houdini, and triflow. Houdini to clean, a small , small , amount oh triflow to lubricate. I checked my bikes. Both were stiff to rotate the key, had to push and wiggle the cap to open. I opened each cap, covered the tank with a cloth, the sprayed Houdini into the upright key slot. Lots of dirty crap came out. I then used a little triflow in the key slot, the movable angular ring and the two wing latches. What a difference. I think that i will have to set nikki's tank vertical to clean the key tumbler. But i hope to do the same process for her. Just another thing to check at riding season.

When researching my replacement, it seemed that either type could be used. You needed to pull the pump to determine which was used. In my case, i bought a straiggt, and had a curved. I bought a ebay spare pump that also has a curved. The good news is, the curved will work perfectly. I never understood why mine was clogged. 55k miles, spotless tank, and the brillow pad stuff was clean too. But replacing it fixed a bunch of stumbling issues.