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redxxrdr

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Posts posted by redxxrdr

  1. I have always cleaned and lubed the buttons on all bikes at every oil or tire change.

    I have never seen one this loose. The other side, and my XX don't move like this. 

    It's why I ask.

    And yes, I know that my caliper is loose. My daughter dropped the bike, so I am replacing the to speedo sensor 😏

  2. Ok, it's on the SV, but would apply to the XX.

    Three of the buttons that hold the disk to the hub are very loose. 

    No cracks, and both sides of the button are intact 

    How would you tighten them?

    C clamp across the button, a bolt and nut tightened through the button? 

    I thought about using the cone shaped  bottom end from a expansion anchor tightened with a bolt into   the button hole, in a attempt to spread the button .

    The disk are clean, and appear to track straight. I'm trying to NOT remove the disk assembly until my eyes and hands get better 😀

  3. 42 minutes ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

     

     How is the stator consuming power?

    My rake is that it is not.

    3 phase of windings. Connected to ground at one end. The other end of each connected to a series circuit, that opens the current path.

    Power equals current × voltage. Remove current, or voltage, and you have no power to consume.

    Shunt regulators are simple devices, scaled to the loads required.  We screw up by reducing the loads with lower wattage lamps, or higher wattage heated gear.

     

    Regulator technology has changed in the 20+ years since the XX was designed.

  4. Mike,

    I would definitely try a fill if the jack is a old pre China model.

    Oscar is right that you should be careful with it. And don't get under anything that you have lifted with it. A good practice for any jack.

  5. I was joking about my changing size as well.

     

    An older response from Rick at Cogent was that a OEM was a poor choice. 

    It required a nitrogen fill fitting, and one of the internals was built in a way that it could not be rebuilt.  Now that was a 6 year old thread, I'm going to ask if things have changed.

     

    Rick set my fork rebuild for my size back when. They gave a noticeable ride difference.  But the bike still hobby horses on certain roads.

    My problem is that my skills aren't good enough to know a good ride from a great ride.

    10 to 15 years ago, I thought that I needed full adjustable everything.  Now I rarely do pillion, or track days.  I hope to find a economical shock, set by a good tuner for my size. 

    Why have all the extra adjustments, if I am not capable to use them.

    I do know that a undersized OEM at 60k miles could be better.

     

    I plan to call a few places next week and ask.

    Our XX is pretty old now.  But second generation owners are starting to ask the same questions that we asked originally.

    I hope that there are improved products now.

    And yes, the good tuners can set the shock to the correct response for your size and riding style. 

    You just can't fine tune like the big boys.

    I know that I could never set SAG correctly at 240 lbs and the stock spring.

    • Upvote 1
  6. 22 hours ago, XXitanium said:

    So, set it up for 250lbs and don't diet?

    Thanks Bill.

     

    I've actually gotten to 180 without gear. 😀

    I remember Rick saying that the OEM shock was not the best to rebuild do some internals that can't be replaced.

    DMr shows a shock without remote in the $700.00 range.

    I have a couple other vendors that were recommended to check out.

    My research found that I had asked a lot of the same questions before.   At that time, I was focusing on shocks with remotes.  Life and riding has changed, so the less costly option looks better now.

    I even found a thread with Big Dave asking the same questions.

    I should have had Chris pull Dave's shock after his off.  We had called dibs.

     

    I appreciate the feedback.

  7. 2 hours ago, KenNcDoD said:

    Aermacchi

    Is that what we called a Sprint here in the States?

    250 CC single cylinder. The cylinder stuck forward, and often hit anything just behind the front wheel.

    If so, then I spent a few years of my youth abusing and repairing one.

    I never figured out the compression release, and went over the handle bars many times trying to start it.

    Youth and stupidity caused me many a bruise.  But it was a fun ride back in the day.

  8. 2 hours ago, ptxyz said:

    i believe it was these guys;

     

    http://daughertymotorsports.com/

    Yes

    I also see that Traxion, and Cognet have products.

    Plus shocks from wilbees, olins,penske, hyperpro (sp). And others are available.

    I have reached out privately to some members who race to get their thoughts.

    My knowledge is not good enough to know what is a good product / vendor or not.

    I remember that using rebuilt 954 and the like shocks were marginal. Small shock, easier to overwhelm.

    My POS SV came with a busa shock. A bigger shock that is too small because of the differences. In linkage.

    This is one reason why I keep looking at suspension shop.

    Pay for knowledge.

     

    DMr and Cogent are on the top of my list.

    I found a price list from DMr.  I have had good results from Cogent.

    The challenge is finding products for a 20 year old bike, that I choose to afford.

     

  9. Does anyone remember???

    There was a suspension tuner using a modified 954 shock as a starting point.

    They were building a custom shock body since 954 were impossible to find.

     

    It wasn't Cogent, and internet search found one of Eric's threads. Not supported anymore.

    Does anyone remember the company name??

  10. 14 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

    Yeah, i have one. Spent about twenty minutes today looking for it.

    😄😄

     

    I thought that I was the only one with that problem.

     

    I found one of the kids bikes in the garage last week.

    Missing it for at least 10 years

    • Like 1
  11. Your weight might be below the sweet spot that most bikes are suspended for.  Great for you.

    I understand finances. I have needed a shock, for almost 20 years. $1000.00 hurts.

    Keep posting your progress.  It helps to remind me that the bird ages gracefully, but it does age.

  12. Do you have a old fashioned trouble light? I spent an embarring amount of time chasing a fried relay contact with a meter. Voltage through, no current.  

    I use a trouble light (bulb in series with a jumper) on my old VW. Cheap, and will show high impedance connections that meters will lie about.

  13. 3 hours ago, XXitanium said:

    Shit, now I have a project.

    You won't be disappointed.

    You can get the parts for a couple hundred dollars. 

    Rick (I think) at Cognet, helped me pick emulator, and spring rates , if I purchased from him.

    My little SV had a great improvement, and let me learn a few things.

    • Upvote 1
  14. HID units cost $200.00 when they first came out. Still worth it. Now at $30.00, The are a no brainer. I don't know how good led systems are.

    Hid bulbs have to warm up. Because of that, I only run them on my low beam, always on, circuit.

    Trust me, it's a great upgrade.

     

    The bulb fits into the standard socket, but is a little loose.

    I used a garden hose washer behind the bulb to tighten the fit.

     

    Eric, RIP, had spent the effort to build a bulb cover that eliminated the scattered light.

    Most of us were too lazy, and just installed the bulb.

  15. You already have the forks down.

    Unless you are a lightweight, I would look at springs ( 1 kg) and emulators.

    I put the Penske cartridge in mine years ago, on a group buy.

    I ran 240 lbs full gear at that time. A friend, same size, rides a k1200rs. 

    I would bottom out hard on the little bridge on 180 between Suches and Hwy 129.

    Not at all on the RS.

    Penske cartridge and correct springs make a real difference.

    The rear shim helps the bike turn in. 

    Doing the front end is worth it.

    Cogent Dynamics did the group buy.

    They also supplied springs, emulators, and oil suggestions for my SV650. Another undersprung bike.

     

    Cogent

    • Upvote 1
  16. 2001 had the double green dot (paint marker)  CCT as OEM.

     

    2001 also had the largest stator and relocated R/r.

    I think the large stator puts out a heady 900 watts.

    I replaced my stator with a Ricks, and a Mosfet series regulator.  Done at 50k, I'm at 65k now with no issues.

    A HID, or possibly LED headlamp upgrade helps on night rides.

     

    Good luck on your search, and welcome.

  17. We seem to have lost the troubleshooting guide in the useful thread section.

    This https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle

    Should work.  I do remember unloaded voltages at 60 volts AC.

    Check the connector between the stator and the r/R. I lost charging due to the connector burning.

     

    I finally put a Ricks stator and a series regulator on mine, with no more failures.  Sorry, I forget what type of regulator. It's been a few years.

    Challenges. Bike is a 01. Regulator is mounted in the tail, upper right.

    Earlier bikes were mounted different.  I mounted the replacement where the original was. It required a aluminum plate to adapt the regulator to the OEM mounting holes.

    I also used a BMW electrical connector, cut and removed the other connectors. The BMW connector is the newer, hi current, waterproof design.

     

    A failed stator usually is burned in appearance. You can remove the cover, and look at it.  If you are lucky, the paper gasket won't tear, and you can reuse it.

    The conversions available when I did mine, assumed that I was using my OEM connector. Mine had burned pins. That is why I used the BMW plug.

  18. Thanks for the instructional.

    I used a similar process on my 65. VW RGB bearings.

    I'm at 60 k miles, and not ready yet.

    I bought a full set after the Tsunami. Just in case manufacturing was damaged.  Now I will have to find them.

    • Like 1
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