slyxdevil

i got hid on both low and hi beams and never had any flickering yet check your charging system

i just bent spring that holds it in and it is under constat pressure at base and does not move at first i tried shims but bulb wasnt sitting right now im good to go

Mike, you've gone through three CCT units to this opoint, is that correct? Did I read this thread too fast, or were all of your CCTs of the old design (the pre X-11 version)? i got the double green dot from john do they last?

Welcome to the site and to being a Bird owner. If you ever come to Orlando, let me know and we can go out riding. Maybe I should head up you way, being you have a lot more back roads to get out and ride on. Don't you just love how great the gang is here and how much help they can be, that is as long as you don't ask about hookers. i have a 98 the heat is normal even more so on the black bikes just dont wear shorts when riding

i use the h.a.r.d. unit from leagal speeding.com and love it bought it back in 05 workd great

gentlemen, i'm sure I can sort something out. I assure you I don't mess with numbers. The tests were done on a Land and Sea dyno we imported from the States, best dyno there is, got to say. I am now concerned about the ad thing and getting a slagging from members, so if you have a chum that has a dyno, then email me personally. (can that be done?) I'll then explain how the thing works. Cheers I wouldn't praise that dyno just yet. I have two 99 Blackbirds that I ran on a dynojet back in Nov. The streetbike made 138 HP and the dragbike made 133 HP. Two days ago I ran them on an eddy current style dyno. Streetbike made 122 Hp. WTF! The dragbike which now has a Wiseco 1195 kit, a five-angle valve job, and very mild port work made 170 HP!! No other changes and still stock compression with a zero map in the PC. Raise your hand if you buy that figure. :icon_snooty: (crickets chirping) I am going to try a different dyno shop. I think you might want to do the same. Then you at least have some back-up. dude i just went through same shit thursday when bike was stock it ran 135 on dyno jet dyno well it just had vance and hines slip ons now thursday i go and get a run on the ec997a eddy current dyno the bike ran 108hp after rejetting and syncing carbs ran 123hp bullshit!! this is fastest bike has ever been have a full muzzy ex system and tons of work the guy told me he does quick blips only he didnt have colored ink either my co was good though and bike is insane fast cant keep front wheel down and im 6 foot 6 ...320lbs he told me if i run on dyno jet ill get between 140-and 160 ??????? wtf..can someone explain my powerband is right from 2k to red line much more torqe low mid and top tuned bike great reall dont like that eddy current dyno its full of shit

the bird has 2 h7 bulbs so i ordered the h7 kit for car plug and play no splicing or relays or any crap figured run the low with one and the high beam with other ? will this work?

well said

hi i designed a center stand stop, for all of you who removed stock pipes you need a center stand stop these are built and ready to ship price is 25.00 shipping included will post a pic

im a heavier rider being 6ft 6 tall and 325lbs i never had a decel wobble only once i gott an excelleration wobble as wheel was barely skipping ground at a little over 120 mph that was scary

YEAH I WAS AFFRAID TO TAP THE BOTTOM SEEMED AWFLY TIGHT DIDNT WANNA DAMAGE AS WE PLANED ON GOING FOR A RIDE RIGHT AFTER WE PUT BACK TOGETHER..U SHOULDNT HAVE TO BEAT BEARINGS THEY GAVE ME NEW SEALS IN MY KITT THE BEARINGS ONLY HAVE ONE RACE OLD STOCK ONES HAVE 2 RACES..BEING THAT WE WERE GOING FOR A RIDE I DIDNT WANNA BEAT IT WITH HAMMER AND WOOD I LOOKED AT THE ST1100 INSTALL THAT WAS POSTED IN THIS SECTION AND IT SEEMS LIKE HE HAD TO DO SOME REAL WORK TO GET IT ON I WILL DO BOTTOM ONE AGAIN AT END OF SEASON IT AINT HARD ITS JUST LIKE U SAID BRAKES AND ALL THE PLUMMING LINES ARE THE HARDEST PART WILL FREEZE RACE OVER NIGHT AND PRE HEAT BEARING FILL SHAFT WITH CHRUSHED ICE AND I THINK ILL BE ABLE TO GET IT MY TOP ONE WAS ACTULLY WASTED JUST REGREASED STOCK BOTTOM FOR NOW

YOU CAN TRY TRICKS LISTED ABOVE ALSO PUT FOAM ON BOTTOM WITH SPAY ADHESIVE JUST IN SPOTS WHERE IT TOUCHES SUB FRAME

NORTHERN MAN IM REAL FAMILIAR WITH WORKING ON BIKES AS I NEED FREINDS HELP TO JACK IT UP WITH OUT FALLING OVER ..THE TOP BEARING WAS TOTALY WASTED EVEN HAD A BALL MISSING AND HAD GRIME IN IT FELT LIKE SAND..SO IT MADE A BIGG DIFF CHANGING IT ALL IM SAYING IS STOCK ONE ON BOTTOM SLIDES RIGHT ON NO PRESS NEEDED WHY IS AFTER MARKET SUCH A PAIN IN ASS ? WELL BELIVE IT OR NOT THE TOP BEARING WAS THE ONE THAT WAS WASTED I GUESS FROM PREV OWNER WASING IT IT WAS RUSTED AND HAD A GRITTY LIKE SAND IN IT BOTOMM WAS FINE ..I CHANGED IT CAUSE I WAS GETTING A CLICKING FROM STEERING HEAD I HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH DECEL WOBBLE OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT I WILL DO THE BOTTOM OVER WINTER AND FREZZE RACE HEAT BEARING GOOD AND PRESS IT ON ..HAD THE BIKE OUT RODE 67 MILES FEELS GREAT BUT WILL DO BOTTOM OVER WINTER

had a buddy help me not as bad as i thought it would be hardest part was fukin with all the brake plumming put forks in had to take back out to reroute the pluming twice but that bottom one dosnt even slide down shaft as shaft is tapered bigger at bottomrace didnt even slide down and bearing seemed like it would never fit i guess u gotta cook it in pan and freeze the race new ones only have one race stock there are 2 races any way top bearing was fuct bottom was ok so regreased bottom and changed top to the roller had it al apart shame it just dont slide in took us about 2.5 hours

i installed roller bearings today hoever only the top the bottom one is to tight on shaft i tried freezing it but still no good the stock one drops right on aftermarket dosent fit shaft to tight will damage if i try to press it on why do they make it so tight? why cant they just shave it like 5 thousanths?