Sondance

*** NOTE 8/20 - THANKS GUYS IT'S BEEN FUN, ENJOYED FINALLY MEETING SOME OF YOU ALONG THE WAY!! I HOPE THAT SOMEDAY MY PRINCE WILL COME AND I'LL OWN A HOUSE AGAIN, HAVE MY LIFE TOGETHER (IN ONE PLACE AGAIN), AND BE ON TWO WHEELS AGAIN AND OUR PATHS WILL CROSS ONE MORE TIME, ALL THE BEST TO YOU AND YOURS!! -RB *** 2000 Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird – Asking $4,000 as it sits with everything on it, flexible on price vs. what all is included… 2nd owner, 56,000 miles, Original Titanium Color, Fuel injected Bird is garage kept in Maitland, FL (just north of Orlando) It’s got everything on it I needed and is set up for long distance/sport touring rides or running errands around town. Maintained by myself regularly and a friend trained at MMI in Orlando for the more advanced maintenance jobs (valves), have maintenance journal w/mileage intervals. Wire Loom Fix, Tapered Steering Head bearings, and new OEM R/R @ 45K, new OEM Stator and Battery (ST1300 size) @ 50K. Michelin Pilot Roads still have plenty of tread left, chain and sprockets in great shape. Bird plastic has a few scars, but good to go, great shape, ridden daily (almost), ready for that next long distance trip or run to the beach. I still have most of the original parts and some various spare parts I accumulated along the way as well. I figured I’d keep my Bird forever, but unemployment has forced my hand. Time to get serious… Motivated, sad, seller, ready to deal. Sale includes: Penske 8900E Shock with stiffer spring rate – set up by Rick @ Cogent Dynamics Race Tech Fork Springs with stiffer spring rate, and fresh internals/fork oil @ 42K Corbin Gunfighter Seat MRA Vario Touring Screen w/ radar detector mount and Saeng Micro-Swirl edging. Hardwired for Escort radar detector. (not included) Givi Luggage: (2) E460’s and (1) E52 Maxia (1st Gen Maxia) HID Lighting: DDM (Hi/Low bulbs) with European headlight switch (on/off) LED lighting in instrument panel, rear turn signals, and Auxiliary Hyperlights (blinking rear stop lights/rear turn signals mounted to Givi luggage mount) Adjustable Pazzo levers – Short Front Brake and Clutch (Black) Spiegler Stainless Steel braided brake lines – with fresh EBC brake pads installed at 50K Honda VFR bars (higher rise than stock CBR bars) Auxiliary fusebox wired to power: Heated Liner/Heated Gloves (Safe and Warm Liner/Gloves included with sale) Garmin Streetpilot 2720 GPS (included with sale w/ mount) Escort Radar detector (not included) Outside power socket, Voltmeter, and Stebel horn (included with sale) Battery wired for Battery Tender Quick Connect (included with sale) Marsee 19 liter Electrified Tank Bag to power: Sirius Satellite Radio (included with sale but not currently active) Mixit 2 (included) Etymotic ER6i Ear phones (included with sale w/ fresh ear plugs) Throttlemeister throttle locks Delkevic Slip-ons w/ Stan’s Center stand stop Onboard Air Compressor and Flat kit Mirror Extenders Frame sliders Dave’s Lowered Footpeg brackets Honda ST1300 Tank Protector Power bronze Hugger Michelin Pilot Roads Buyer gets first crack at below items, not interested in selling until Bird is sold: Honda Shop Manual for 2000 CBR 1100XX Corbin Gunfighter and Lady seat w/ Red piping Powerbronze Double Bubble Screen Givi Luggage - E52 Maxia (1st Generation) Gen Mar bar risers Additional TourMaster Tank Bags TourMaster Softbags/Seatbag Battery Tender Shoei X-11 Replica Helmet (Lg) Olympia Mesh Riding Gear Belstaff Riding Gear Joe Rocket Mesh Jacket

yes it would have, wish they were local so I could take a better look at them. The pictures just look like they have some rash on the lowers but could just be dirty or lighting I've got it on my watch list. Maybe we could share??? Yeah, it's not killing me but my upper cowl is cracked and I could use a new one... if that helps the team option. I've been riding with mine cracked for years though, so not a real biggie for me.

On my 2000 Bird, I had the constant fuel smell as well, found out by lifting the tank and turning the key that the fuel line connectors were seeping out fuel as the injectors increased pressure within the line and the line expanded. Not noticeable unless you turned the key to engage the FI. I ended up replacing the fuel line and fuel pressure regulator as well and all is well. I didn't have an idle cutoff issue though, and I'd doubt this would solve it. Someone more technical on here can perhaps address this..

I did my instrument bulbs in LED awhile ago and quite honestly can't remember the exact bulb I used. I did get some spares and will look around for them. I know that I got them from here, super bright led.com. And I'm pretty sure those were the ones I ordered. If you measure your stock bulbs (they pull out of the holders) you can compare them to the measurements given on this website and then call the company to discuss. That's more or less what I did. I had to return a few and swap a few before I got the right ones... good company to deal with, in my experience. Oh, and you should have two different sized bulbs... one size is the back lighting for the dash, the others are the actual indicators. The other thing I learned is to go with the actual color you need for the indicator and not just get white. White softens the color, meaning it turns a red color (Check Eng light, ex.) to pink... so get green for neutral, red for check engine, blue for high beams, etc... Sorry I can't be more specific than that right now... if I find the spare bulbs I have (they're pretty little), I'll post up. They work great and are much brighter than stock, so it's worth the effort and cost involved to do so.

Cheers guys, thanks. Picked up an AGM 14 type from my local Batteries Plus, seems like a pretty decent store for everything battery, reasonable price points, and knowledgeable assistance. New Battery worked like a charm, next mystery.... now to figure out a workaround for my continually breaking Powerbronze hugger situation. Craig... no worries, we had a great time in Melbourne Beach, I just figured if you were in Haines City, that woulda been reasonably close... until next time! :icon_thumbsup:

I've been searching the board for the past couple of hours and checking most everything as has been posted. Still no luck, I figure it's battery time but before I do, here goes... 2000 Bird, 53K miles. New Autozone Battery put in when purchased Bird - 2/2008 Bird ridden virtually daily - Battery Tender treatment when not being ridden for a few days Installed a Datel Voltmeter in dash to monitor volts, which has been consistent with multimeter readings directly from the battery. New OEM Starter switch (from David Silver Spares) to shut off HID lights - 2/2009 **EDIT** Wire Loom Fix - 6/2009 - 44K miles New OEM R/R - 7/2009 - 45K miles New OEM Stator - 11/2009 - 50K miles Scenario - Running errands around town today, no muss, no fuss, everything working as normal. Haven't done anything mechanical to the Bird since 3/2010, when oil changed. Pretty hot/humid today, about 94 degrees but feels like 120... Voltmeter shows appropriate charge rate while riding... 13.5 - 14.2 depending on throttle, 12.5 or so, when key turned, and a dip to like 11.3 or so when starter button engaged, nothing appeared different, idle 12.8 ish... Swing by the house to drop off some things from Lowe's, hop back on Bird, hit starter button - Nada, dash lights go out, Datel shows a drop to 6.4 volts and some clicking noises occur in the under seat area... Put bird on Tender, Tender charges for about 5-10 mins and then sits on Storage rate. Turn key, no dash lights for a second or so, then I get a weak FI light and a weak/flickering Check Eng light, Neutral light does not join the party and remains out. Datel showing an increasing volt but stops at about 7.2 volts, I'm getting no response from the starter button and the clicking returns (from under seat area). Check voltage directly to battery using multimeter, Fluke meter shows 12.9 volts... Check battery connections under seat, all good. Connections clean/tight. Little fuse panel under seat, all good. Checked 30 amp fuse under seat, all good. Pulled rear cowl, hidden 30 amp fuse, various connectors, all good/tight/clean. Pulled R/R off and removed boot from connectors, all clean, no appearance of burnt anything, dielectric grease still in play.. all good or so it would seem. Near as I can figure some portion of my battery has given up the ghost, at the very least I'll buy one tmw and run through the electrical diagnostics just to be sure. I'll also pull the lower cowls and check the ground and starter connections. I've checked them before (last year) cleaned, lubed, and re-tightened though, I can't imagine. Any thoughts of things I've missed? I can't understand why all of the sudden the battery (if that's it), just went south. It's not even 3 years old at this point... Thanks guys!

When I got mine, the stock shield was gone.... so I can't offer an opinion. Always had pretty good luck with MRA Vario for touring/long distance on other sportbikes, and after seeing John01XX's shield, I went with a Powerbronze Double Bubble from Superbike Store on ebay for around town, particularly when it warms up down here... it's even got "CBR1100XX" embossed into the shield, which is kinda cool.... shield works good too! But, I also have a MRA Vario for my longer trips or when it starts to get cold.... I've also added Saeng windshield trim to assist with air deflection. Shields are like Seats are like Tires are like Helmets are like Women, they are indeed a very personal thing.... you gotta just try them on for size! Enjoy!

Hopefully it will last this time...

Edited 12/4... Here you go, best I could do at the moment, at least will give you some idea... Tire Plug Kit and Compressor in rear cowl, Tank Bag with some stuff, looks like you'd have room for some other "stuff" as well...

If you go with smaller sized polish and water bottles, you should be ok, but I'd guesstimate that it would be a squeeze. I just tried the larger sized Plexus in mine and it takes up almost half of one side, which doesn't leave a lot of room for the other things you listed, especially if you added two bottles of water in there. I tuck my tire plug kit and compressor in the space underneath the rear cowl, right behind the seat... not had a problem with that setup for a long while now, so that would save you some room. Give me a few this am, I'll take a shot at it and post some pics...

Randy, I picked up Stan's 10 prior to Christmas... it's perfect for my application. I used to use the Cortech Mini or Super Mini for my around town errands/commute and an "electrified" Marsee 19 for the long hauls. Although the Mini was super for locking in my Givi's, it became real cramped for space once I threw a toll clicker, an mp3 player, and a glasses holder in there. The 10 really fits the bill with all that now, with room to spare, and it seems to fit nicely into my Givi's as well. The Marsee 19 is just too big and involved for the around town gig, in and out of Givi's, etc, IMO. I'm also not a real fan of the Marsee zipper action and map pocket, but I've had it a long time and it works well all things considered. I'm actually thinking the 10 will work nicely for longer hauls now... we'll see this year... One other thing, the Cortech zipper pulls will eventually break, but it's easy enough to trim the excess rubber material away from the zipper and add your own pull in place, a little zipper lube on the threads and it works like a charm!

PM Sent.

What's the status of the tank bag? I'd like to get dibs in on that... need to check my current Marsee for size, but I'm thinking that's a 19L and I'd like another Marsee only smaller... my current Cortech Mini is getting ragged out from all the around town errand use... PM sent...

Not the greatest pic... two different sizes, obviously one is bigger than the other, but both have the same "wedge" type attachment...

I believe I have a couple of spare OEM dash bulbs somewhere in a spare parts box... I'll look tonight if no one else responds, and post a pic... I think Will is right they're a kind of wedge type bulb... wasn't real difficult to replace.

Skip, For a frame of reference, that looks like the Penske "Sport" shock, I've got one on mine... no remote. Got mine from Rick @ Cogent Dynamics, he's a good guy (as most of you know), and can service/setup the heck out of these things...

I've been using the HF changer with some additions from a buddy that sells the Mojolever and Mojoblocks for years... works ok, no scratches but takes practice to get used to it. I got it way before the No Mar was available... I'd proally go No Mar now. Marc Parnes balancer on jack stands... I probably need to get better at using this, but so far my seat of the pants testing tells me I've been doing ok. Buy tires at SW Moto or online somewhere else that maybe has a better deal...

If you change your mind, I'd like to have a shot at the upper fairing, tail section, and potentially the fuel tank, though I can proally live with mine as is... again, if you change your mind, give me a shout. Thanks.

I tripped into a CCS100 cruise control on Amazon for $90, clicky... Audiovox on Amazon

That's the same advice Hobi gave me when I was preparing to meet Shotsfired...

C'mon guys it's all ball bearings these days... maybe you need a refresher course, now I'm gonna need some ball bearings, some gauze tape, and some 30 weight oil... preferably Prestone... Go here and looksie, it's the "Premiere VFR site across all the 'net", accept no substitutes... as you know we're all about "Premiere" around here... VFR Discussion.com

Beak, PM sent...

Beak, I've got the stock seat off my 2000 sitting here in Orlando... I'm pretty happy with my G&L Corbin, but I'll swap ya if that helps... I'm real close to Universal Studios, if you know where that is. I'm leaving Weds for a week at the Gap, and I've got a handful of things to deal with prior, so we could hook up when I get back or you could brave I-4 and we'll exchange at my house. Let me know what you'd like to do.

2000 Bird here, 44K miles. I ran the Electrosport trouble shooting guide that Craig linked to above about a year ago when the battery died on mine. I initially went through and cleaned all electrical contacts with a high grade electrical cleaner as well as sealed them with a high grade electrical sealer and dielectric grease. If I recall correctly, I had bogus/inaccurate Ohm readings off the stator similar to what you're reporting on that portion of the test. The other 2 portions of the Electrosport test for the stator (as Hobi has mentioned) checked out fine for output. The R/R tests checked out fine as well. The only faulty reading with that whole test I got that was not within their spec was the black wire test (first test on page . This is a common problem with VFR's as well, the black wire (12V input wire to the R/R) circuit runs through all kinds of connections (ignition switch/fuse box, etc) that hamper the reading causing the R/R to get faulty readings and usually will increase output to the battery as it thinks the battery voltage is too low. This isn't too good for either the R/R, the battery, or any of the electrical connections along the way... I installed a fresh/new battery and monitored my on board Datel Voltmeter while riding. I noticed that my Volt output gradually increased over time and fluctuated fairly high... 14.9 - 15.1 at revs... similar to the VFR condition. After receiving a new R/R and running it through the initial tests, I installed it in place of my original R/R to test, and I got similar readings as with the old R/R. The VFR fix is to remove the black wire out of the R/R connector and run a separate black wire directly to the + terminal on my aux fusebox, (most guys will go directly to the + terminal on the battery). I also put the old R/R back on. As a result, my Volt output is now a rock solid and steady 14.3 volts at revs. 12.9 at initial key turn, 12.3/4 pushing the starter button, 12.9-13.2 at idle, depending on what all I've got running. Has been that way for awhile now with no issues and I'm still on the original OEM stator and R/R... knock on wood. FWIW, my old 02 VFR electrics responded the same way... YMMV Since I drive the Bird almost daily, I will connect it to a battery tender every so often overnite.

I'm just over 6K miles with a set of PR2's and no visible sign of squaring off on the rear anytime soon. With my daily Fla usage, I typically will wear out the middle first from all the straight, flat, boring roads. This is my first set of tires on the Bird and they seem to continue to hold up well with no apparent lack or loss of traction in the wet as they wear. I was wondering this weekend if my suspension upgrades have helped the tire life... dunno. On my VFR in comparison a set of PP's would be square and need changing at 5K, PR's at 6K. I don't have a lot of "twisties" down here and subsequently don't really push my Bird like I'm sure others on here do, I'm more of an interstate and back roads/sweepers kinda touring sort FWIW. Have a trip up to the Gap scheduled in a few weeks (proally be a quick 2000 mile weekend), and debating whether I should put a fresh rear sneaker on prior to leaving... I proally will just for the peace of mind should bad weather come along for the trip... but I'd bet even money I could make another 2K mile on the current rear tire...