ironmike

I doubt it's the exhaust system, but here's an inside look at the stock cans . . . Yeah, there are numerous baffles and a convoluted gas path, but the press-fits and welds are excellent and robust. https://www.superblackbird.co.uk/blackbird/exhaust.htm

"Exterminate . . . exterminate . . . "

Oh, wow - now I've learned something that on first take I'd have thought was counter-intuitive (blockage, heat, etc.). I'll readily admit I have no experience with XX cats; but now I'm intrigued. Has anyone got a schematic breakdown or diagram for this type (XX) cat/silencer system? Something like the autopsy performed on an OEM can in the link below. . . https://www.superblackbird.co.uk/blackbird/exhaust.htm

I agree that oil leak merits some intense scrutiny . . . Those cans may indicate some degree of cat blockage, hence the heat related discoloration. Periodic use of leaded fuel (maybe older aviation gas?) can screw with the cats, gradually destroying them, all the while impeding flow and seriously increasing trapped heat.

All original? It appears so. If that's the case, there may be some collector interest since it's a '97 ('97 first years, '99 first FI w/ram air, and '03 last year in NA, tend to be the most collectible in NA). I passed this sale info on to some collectors. While the mileage is low (for an XX), if it's over 10K the (collector) interest diminishes appreciably. You should add contact info and consider multiple sale venues.

Maybe I'm mistaken, but I always thought locking fuel caps were more about preventing sabotage (i.e., sugar in the tank) than theft of fuel . . .

The little owner's manual originally came tucked into a recess on the bottom of the OEM seat. They are becoming somewhat rare these days. The Honda shop manuals were available for about $60 (US) through dealerships; but, now they've become a bit scarce as well. As anyone who collects such ephemera knows, condition matters.

There will come a point where your weight loss will seem to plateau, despite maintaining your diet/exercise regimen. Don't worry; that's normal. The clue will be that your strength and stamina continue to steadily enhance, notwithstanding minuscule fluctuations of a scale's needle or digital readout. Hang in there and stick to your routine. Now here's the psychological trick; stay away from the scale, ignore the temptation for routine visits, and only weigh yourself once a month. Record the results on a calendar. The weight loss will be more quantifiable once again, and you will have manifested a commendable level of self-discipline. After all, this entire self-improvement project, a beneficial lifestyle change in pursuit of the best possible health, is reliant on the most basic core value of self-discipline. Good luck!

However you elect to start on this journey, good for you! The real secret lies in perseverance to maintain what amounts to a lifestyle change. Savor the little victories that will come every time you make a decision that bolsters your commitment to the journey, this quest for improved health and longevity. One of the first challenges is getting past the third day of any diet--it's also one of those victories to be savored. A change in diet is half the solution; a change in activity (exercise) is the other--the yin and yang of a healthy lifestyle. Re: exercise, do something, anything, even something simple every day--it really works. In time it becomes second nature; the benefits accumulate like compound interest. Do it for yourself, and those you hold dear, for all will benefit. Best of luck!

Analog dash has a digital LCD time clock as well; but, the draw is minuscule.

This might be little off the wall, but I seem to remember hearing about a malfunctioning tank vent (blocked, collapsing tube, etc.) that drove some folks to distraction thinking the issue was solely with the carb. The tip-off was that there was a very subtle sucking sound when the gas cap was loosened after the engine stalled.

The shop manual calls for an idle speed range of 1,050-1,150RPM at normal operating temps. A cold idle speed will vary per circumstances, but an additional 200-800RPM is considered within the normal range. If you have an on-board voltmeter, you may notice the alternator isn't happy at lower idle speeds (charging rate at less than 12.8v) so some folks will adjust it to the upper acceptable range (1,150RPM @ normal op temp) to keep the charging system happy. That sort of adjustment seems to have no negative consequences. This can be helpful if you have additional current draw for any accessories. BTW, I've never personally seen a cold-start wax unit fail, but I suppose it's remotely possible.

A new battery, huh? Did you bench charge it before installation? I don't mean with a trickle charger, but with a smart charger capable of at least 2.0A/hr. It typically takes 6-10 hours of bench charging at such low & slow rates to initially charge a 10AH battery (OE - YTZ12S/YUASA) to its full (and likely future ) capacity. If you didn't bench charge it first, remove the battery, check the cells electrolyte levels, and check the no-load charge level. Now let it sit for a few hours (if your garage is too cold, bring it inside and let it come to room temp). Now try bench charging with an appropriate charger. If you're using a smart charger you can let it charge overnight - it won't overcharge. Take a voltage reading after charging. As redxxrdr and superhawk996 said, a no-load reading of 12.7-13.5v usually means a happy battery. Per the shop manual, 12.3v or below indicates a battery beyond hope - replace it. Here are some helpful links . . . https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2064f870023420a2f7ac/battery https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM3RH2S-YTX12-BS-Battery/dp/B000WK4CS4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266738&sr=1-2&keywords=2003+Honda+CBR1100XX+12v+battery+YTX12-BS https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Automatic/dp/B07DD8BJ9V/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266804&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+battery+charger+smart (not an endorsement - just cited as an example) It pays to do some research and comparison shopping. Best of luck!

That's a sweet rider, with some nice accessories. If it's been as well maintained as it appears, the mileage (46.5K) isn't that much of an issue - as we well know. It looks like someone is gonna be very happy with this XX.

Hmm, not original windshield, seat, or paint . . . missing decals alone would have me scrutinizing the plastic for originality. I suspect there may be more to the tale of this bike than as appears in the CL ad. Caveat emptor.

On my '99, the headlight didn't go out, but merely dimmed (clearly still drawing current) at starting. When I upgraded to HID (hi/lo) I added the switch - being illuminated helps, otherwise I'd likely forget more often than not to to switch the headlight on, like John mentioned.

I have a digital voltmeter connected to the battery (switched) and an illuminated headlight off/on switch (less load at starting - yeah, it does make a difference on my low mileage '99 XX). I've noticed that at near idle (1100rpm or so) the charging level stays in the 12v range, fluctuating slightly (12.5 - 12.8v). Add a hundred rpms or so, and it rises to 13v+, making the battery happy again. This is normal; the factory shop manual lists the idle speed as 1100rpm (plus or minus 50rpm), but that's just below the threshold to effectively charge the on-board battery.

I have two of the same chain-driven Sears/Craftsman 1/2HP openers (2 double doors, steel--yeah, they're heavy) that are original to the house (1992). I have similar issues with both (multiple button presses sometimes required, periodic short travel, etc.). I don't use remotes; so, activation is via interior (wall) buttons only. The problems seem to be exacerbated by extreme temperatures (for here that means below 45F and above 85F). At 26 years, I'm sure the openers' age plays a role. I replaced the nylon gears in both about ten years ago when it was apparent teeth were worn/slipping. My next move, when one of them finally gives up the ghost, is to probably replace both units.

I wish I aged as gracefully as the '99 I have in my collection. Always garaged, soft covered, and only occasionally displayed at shows, where it consistently draws an appreciative crowd, it has accrued only 3K miles. Still close to original, all the rubber/seals/etc. appear to be in pristine condition. Unable to resist, I finally did tweak a few things (heli-bars, cruise control, HIDs, Dave's peg lowering kit, dark-smoke windscreen, digital voltmeter); but, I kept all the OEM parts. I've kept it titled/tagged/insured/ inspected per state law; but, I've not ridden it (or any of the other bikes in the collection) in some time. Clearly, I'm not aging as gracefully as I'd hoped. Oh, well . . .

Here's a basic negotiation strategy . . . Price a set of new tires (installed - mounted/balanced), new chain & sprockets, battery, oil/fluids change, etc. (anything else it might need). Total everything up, deduct that amount from the asking price; that gives you a reasonable starting point. How you proceed to negotiate is up to you. Keep the pragmatic factors foremost in mind, rather than the subjective (or emotional ) elements. In other words, keep how badly you might want it close to your vest - believe me, among those of us who own XXs, we get it. Best of luck!

That's very low mileage for an XX. Light drop on one side? Mostly stock? Not nearly enough info to make a judgment call. Tires? Fluids? Chain/sprockets? Ask all these questions and more . . . FWIW, the price could be in the ballpark for a decent rider (as opposed to a collectible example).

Happened to me twice yesterday (18 Apr); today no problem. I'm using Linux (Ub-16.04). Refresh corrected it at my PC; but pretty sure it's a server hiccup.

In the first pic of the ceiling, there's a forced air HVAC vent (not a return) in the ductwork; so, can we assume the basement space is currently heated/cooled? Was that vent (and/or any others in the basement space) part of the original HVAC design? (The HVAC system would have been appropriately sized per code and subject to inspection.) If it is, then it may be all that's needed is to consider insulation for the walls and possibly the floor. If not (meaning that vent was an add-on, or afterthought), you could consider sealing it up, consequently not heating/cooling the basement space, and then consider an insulation application for the ceiling/first floor only.

Gotta basically agree with googus . . . Stud (16" o/c), insulate *, and sheet rock the walls; add a short-drop grid ceiling (w/lightweight foam panels) for future easy access. *If it's in the budget, look into closed foam spray insulation for the walls; it does an excellent sealing job and really helps with sound isolation/exclusion.

Agreed . . . John has been first-rate, reliable and professional. His word is his bond; that still means something in this world.