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kg4fku

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    Kingsland Ga
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    Riding, Amateur radio, Jeeps
  1. are your battery terminal tight?
  2. 1999 FI with K&N air filter and stock pipes the best I have ever gotten was 43 . I get consistantly 39 back and forth to work mostly in town driving.
  3. Hey you know I gotta ask. :wink:
  4. Hey Warren why do you want to put the decals back on for?
  5. yep, I'd say your starter button is sticking. take it apart and clean it with contact cleaner. you can get it at almost any raio shck. pick up some dielectric gease while your there too.
  6. my 99 is fuel injected...........
  7. I don't know what you guys are complaining about. On my 99 before the K&N the stock pipe tips were always black in about 500 miles. Mileage was usually between 38 and 40. Now I have the K&N in the bike with the stock pipes. Tips are always shiney and my best mileage to date was 43 MPG. That was logged on the super slab with loaded Corbin bags and two up. My plugs fire cleaner WITH the K&N. The bike runs a little warmer around town but that is to be expected when the bike is running on the lean side. My only guess is that they changed the ECU after the 99's to control more of the fuel mixture. I like the filter and I don't plan on going back. Of course, your mileage may vary.
  8. I had the "wobble" between 40 and 45 when I got my Corbin bags. I had the stock style front tire (Dunlop 205) mounted at the time. As soon as I changed the tire to a cross tread pattern tire (Avon 45 or Dunlop 208) the wobble just dissapeared. That is the only conclusion I can come up with. Nothing else changed on the bike except the front tire. I can only attribute it to the 205 having a groove in the center causing the wobble.
  9. Well I'll tell what I found. My pipes (stock) before the K&N were always black and souty on the tips. After the K&N this has gone away. So I know for a fact the bike is running leaner. Second while I was in daytona the bike ran a little warmer than usual while stuck in traffic. Nothing major because it still didn't over heat but it was warmer than usual. Reason number two I know it is running leaner. Third I have noticed a slight (very slight) increase in gas mileage. I have not seen a real performance gain or loss with the filter. It doesn't seem to run any better or start any easier or anything like that. It also hasn't slowed it down any. It just leaned the bike out a little.
  10. kg4fku

    xx wont start

    if it backfired at all it may not be the kill switch. (not ruling it out just saying it MIGHT not be it). Check all your fuses. Is it an FI model. Try this. Turn the key off and the KILL SWITCH on the right handle bar OFF. Turn the Ignition switch on. Everything should light up, but the fuel pump should be silent. Turn the KILL SWITCH on. Pump should spool up and the FI light should go out. If it doesn't then the kill switch is wet or bad or the fuel pump fuse is blown. There is also a relay located near the fuse box. One is for the Engine stop circuit and the other is for the Fuel cut circuit. With a screw driver handle, lightly tap both relays with the key and kill switch in the on position. Realys can become stuck or frozen in humid or wet conditions. If it does spool then its your ignition (spark). Check the rest of your fuses to make sure you didn't miss something. Ensure the bike is in nuetral (this bypass the nuetral start safety circuit for the clutch and kickstand). Try to start the bike. If it doesn't fire your going to have to get a little more indepth. Lift the tank and pull the #2 plug wire (easiest to get to). Now either get an old plug or pull the plug from the motor. Put the plug in the end of the plug boot (just like it would normally be if you were placing it in the motor) CAUTION the has a potential to shock you. With the plug resting on the valve cover engage the starter and check to see if you have spark. Spark - most likely your injectors are not firing = bad ECM (computer) as the injectors are controled directly from the computer. NO spark - This could be a multitude of things. Bad coils (pull another plug like number three and check again). Plug wasn't grounded correctly. Ignition pulse generator or cam pulse generator is bad (more indepth tear down). The ECM is bad as both coils recieve power from the computer. Hope this helps a little
  11. OK. Do some easy troubleshooting. Half step the problem. Hook some head phones to the radar detector where it sits. Does it have noise? If it does the problem is else where if no the problem is a bad audio cord. Place the detector on the seat aand route a new power cable to it. Place plug the audio up. If the problem goes away then it is the power cable or the physical location. Continue doing this until you have the problem to one specific item.
  12. I'll try to help you with a few questions. First off how is the power cable routed? I am assuming it only happens when the radar detector is plugged in and the system (intercom?) works normally when it is unplugged. If the power cable to the radar is routed on the top portion of the frame under the tank then it is most likely picking up the EMI from the coil packs. If it is routed below then possibly one of the generator wires. Try removing the detector and placing it on the seat and run short wires to the battery. Then plug it in the system. If the noise goes away then it was a cabling problem (power side). How is your audio cable routed? is it near any of the above? try the same with it and see if it goes away. Very rarely do you ever see a true ground loop fault. These are mostly with old Solid state devices. Newer devices have a high tolerance and usually dont give such a problem. You could try a bleeding capacitor. This capcitor (commonly called a filter capacitor, it bleeds off the AC ripple charge on a D.C. line (common in vehicles and bikes because your generating an A.C. current and then regulating/rectifying it to D.C.) Also Your regulator could be on its way south. Have you noticed any power surges lately? The later is doubtful as you stated the problem goes away when it is unplugged. Also you said you were first using the battery as your ground and power. This is best way for all electronic gear because the battery is itself a filtering capacitor by nature and a simple reulator. Hope this helps a little and keep us informed in your progress.
  13. You do know how to properly install one of those right? I'm just asking because I have seen people install them incorrectly. You have to loop the cord around it for it to actually work. No just simply clamping in on the cable. Hope this helps.
  14. come on guys now you know if you stretch the swing arm it'll just wheelie like mad.... :roll:
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