KCBIRD

I've got a new one, still in the package.

Thanks for the compliments. The center stand clears by about 3/8", not much, but enough. The front end mod is pretty well documented in past threads, both mine and others. I decided to use the RC51 lower tripple which is a lot beefier, but required more machine work as you have to press the stem out and machine it to accept the Bird lower bearing. The 929/954 is simpler to modify as it already uses the same lower bearing. Both have to have the steering stops machined off and new ones relocated.

Man, this is an old thread. I put a 190/50 on it.

What's the swingarm off of Graham?

Thanks for the links Dean. I'll be following this closely.

Hey Dean, Who is developing the DIY turbo kit?

Hey Joe, I've got one. I made one from an old socket to take my swingarm off, but decided to buy the correct one to torque it properly when I reassembled it. I can send you some pics with measurements if you want.

Man, your evil. I'd give my left nut for a 1098. I'm not giving up the bird and unfortunately my 900SS would only get me a third of the way there. Hopefully you're moving up with another Duck or an MV. Come on, just tell us already....

Hey Chris, I'll take the swingarm. You've probably got my address, let me know shipping $$ and I'll square up with ya.

I second Vern's recommendation. I've got one too and it is deffinately a high quality piece.

Hey Andrew, Sorry for the slow response, been really busy lately. Yes, I've converted my rear wheel to the RC51, as well as the RC51 front end. I actually didn't start off with trying to match the wheels. After converting the front end, I wanted to use the RC rear caliper so I would have a matching brake system on both ends. Well, the RC caliper won't fit the Bird caliper bracket. After experimenting with combinations Bird and RC parts I realized the only way it would possibly work was to adapt the complete RC rear wheel, caliper & bracket to the Bird swingarm. I Ebayed all of the parts I needed, but wasn't completely sure if it would even work until I had bought everything and started measuring. The RC wheel is 6" wide, but the center hub is narrower, also the rear rotor is smaller in diameter, undoubtedly because the RC51 is 75lbs or so lighter than the bird. The complete rear wheel assembly with dampener, sprocket and rotor is 7lbs lighter than the Birds' weighed the same way. The front wheel without rotors was 1lb lighter. The RC axle is approx 50% larger diameter and uses push axle blocks. The the axle slot had to be machined for the larger axle and the outside of the swing arm machined for the push blocks. The swing arm side tubes are an excruded part with a center rib. We drilled into the rib and tapped it for the adjuster bolts to push the blocks. The caliper bracket slot-tab arrangement is just the opposite of the Bird, so we cut off the aluminum locator block on the swingarm, machined a new one for the RC caliper bracket and welded it on. Finally, the wheel offset is different, so we machined new spacers for both sides. The RC conversion on both ends has been a lot of work and at some point I was on a mission just to prove it could be done, but the end result for me has been worth it.The bike makes directional changes MUCH more quickly and the RC51 brakes could launch you over the bars if you aren't careful. I'm still dialing in the front end height, etc, but the bike feels much more planted and there is no torsional flex in the front end. I've got some pics of the swingarm mods I can post for you, but I need to look for them. Ken

Hey Randy, If you need some help when you get ready, let me know. I can probably save you some time.

Very cool, When I was a teenager, a neighbor had an 850 Super Commando. I've wanted to restore one for years. Best of luck with your project.

I've converted to an RC51 front end and brakes and OZcrow has done it as well. It's not a bolt on conversion, machine work is required as well as de-linking the brakes. Personally, the end result was worth the effort but it's no small undertaking. If you want a little more info, search in the pub for a thread on: "Who's made what drastic changes to their XX's"

Blackbird spares didn't put a kit into production. I talked to pete several times before starting my own conversion. He was in the process of R&D on a kit after doing the conversion on his show bike, but told me the RC51 front ends were too expensive in England and was looking at the ZX12 as an alternative. He's since put the business up for sale, so it's not likely the project will ever be completed. It's too bad, Pete is a great guy and gave me a lot of useful input. My end result will be somewhat different than his, but it would have been a lot harder to complete it without his advice.

+1. Interested, but price is a factor.

I've just completed putting RC51 wheels on mine and I can tell you there is a substantial amount of machine work required just to make the rear wheel fit. You'd be a lot better off just buying aftermarket wheels, like the RC components. For most people it wouldn't be worth the effort to make them fit. I decided to do it because I converted to the RC51 forks and also wanted to change to the RC brakes and wheels as well.

Hey Randy, I'm a bodyshop manager, so I may be of some help. As far as masking the colors, you want to get 3M fine line tape. Any auto paint supply store will have it. It will produce a sharp edge which will allow you to get a nice line between the colors. It also has less adhesive on it and will reduce the chance of peeling paint off when you mask for the second and third colors. Depending on the type of paint you're using, you will want to let the color flash off (set up to the touch), but still be soft when you unmask from the first color. Again, depending on your choice of paint, you will probably need to let it set up for a couple of hours before remasking for the next color, to prevent tape tracking on the fresh paint. In the bodyshop we don't have wait that long to remask for the next color, but I don't know what products your planning on using. Lastly, clean the panels thoroughly with paint prep solvent to remove grease, sanding dust, etc and use a tack rag. If you need anything else, pm me. Ken

I'll second the recommendations. I haven't bought anything from them yet, but Pete has been very helpful with answering questions on my own RC51 front end conversion. Seems to be a great guy and very willing to share info.

Chris, your the man. I knew with the great membership on this board, someone would pull through. Thanks guys!

I'm going on a 9 day ride starting Labor Day weekend and suddenly my fuel pressure regulator takes a shit. My local dealer tells me the one for my 2000 model is on intergalactic backorder until late September. Fuck! I tried all of the Honda dealers in Kansas City & no luck. I know a couple of members work at dealers, so someone else may have one in stock. Also a few members have parts from turbo projects, etc. Anybody have a spare they can sell me? Another possibility is there is one for a 2001 available, but I understand they are a higher pressure, 50psi vs 43psi. Would one of these work anyway? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ken

The tanks are single walled, but are pretty tough. It is possible to do paintless dent repair on them, but it will depend on where the dent is located. I repainted my bike last year and had to fix a dent in the tank also. I pulled the fuel pump out for access so they could get in with the tools, but the PDR guy said he had a hell of a time working the dent. The dent 1" x 2", but it was in a harder spot to reach.

I've got a dyno run for mine when it was stock, except for a K&N air filter. but I only have a printed copy. If you have a fax# I can send you a copy. If it'll work that way for you, pm me.

Thanks guys, I ordered the Ventura setup last Thursday. I'm going on a trip in a couple of weeks with some buddies and can't wait to try it.

I'm considering replace my soft saddlebags with the Ventura rack pack and I know a couple of board members have owned it. Can anyone give me some input? Thanks, Ken