hob

Great news!!! I resolved my heat problem... I still dont know what the problem was... but at the mo all i care is that its resolved... I was worrying about the worst, a blown gasket or something but it just needed a good clean up Here is the list of thinks i did.. 1- removed the water pump cover, It was clean inside, no corrosion what so ever... I checked the blades, sharp, not turning, it started to turn when i start engine for a few secs though... 2- removed radiator, took it to a radiator service, they cleaned it, put chems etc, took it back. 3- installed all parts pack, put garden hose to radiator cap, and opened bleeding bolt from pump. 4- i run the engine and constantly run water inside it for half hour, cleaning out the radiator acid as the radiator repair shop instructed. They said the acid will clean any corrosion that might have happened in the block, in pipes, etc. 5- finally when I'm satisfied that the water is running normal and the water is clean, without particles and rust and such, I stopped the engine. close bleeding bolt. Put one litter of coolant and top up with fresh water. tighten radiator cap. and thats all. yesterday 2 hours in stop&go rush hour traffic in flaming 35+ C weather. And heat was around 105C, 110 max. No need to rev in stops, no need to pull over for cooling. With NGP+ arriving soon, I'll bleed the system and run only NGP+ inside. (as bartonmd suggested). Water wetter? well I'll just keep it for future.. Thanks all for contribs. Anyone need directions in the above steps pm me

Sorry, but i dont buy that. if it was an air cooled engine, than i would agree, like my old virago, where the back cylinder head just stops working proper after some time by the heath... I understand the aero dynamic design keeps heat inside, but think about it, you design such a beautiful bike than you would consider poor buggers like myself stuck in traffic on motorway. So you put an oil and a water radiator. 240 F is like 115C so it not unusual then... I did the fin blow thing... not quite sure it worked, got some dirt out though... while on the process i bleeded the whole system, mixed 60/40 coolant with fresh water. Today, I got a 100km ride and 100 come back, mostly in sunday traffic... it will be a good test. and if that wont work, on Monday i'll check the pump... Getting really fast in taking out and putting in fairings

Sorry, my bad. Its not between reserve tank and radiator, its between two ends of the radiator, and its called thermostat as I learn from the manual I orderes a waterless coolant, the NGP+ one, for $30. so thanks for the info. I read its better than water wetter, but to be on the safe side, i ordered a water wetter as well But there is something bugging me. I'm not a racer, nor a performance rider. True, BB is meant for the open road but I'm sure Honda put in the design a little place for traffic in warm weather, so there sure must be something wrong with the bike for heating up this much... Anyways, the thermostat mod did help a little. The bike is much cooler, near 115C, instead of the 120C... still over the limit and the weather is not that hot yet... So today I'm trying the finn "blowjob", but with eye inspection, it looks clean to me, so i start worrying about the radiator pump... I keep reading the manual and getting no where. If the blowjob dont work, I dont know what i'll do... maybe wait for the coolants to arrive thats the thermostat by the way... If you need help removing it just pm. I removed under an hour...

I put inside one of those pre mixed coolants. And later I put a pint of fresh water to top up. Yes it had heating problems before i drained. And yes I did it according to "stupid" workshop manual, which made me remove all fairings and stays from the bike Yesterday, I got the idea of removing this valve (i dont know the name of the part...) between the radiator and the coolant reserve under the seat. It basically has some mercury or some sort of heat triggered stuff inside it. It normally blocks the reserve tank, until bike (or the water in the system) gets warm enough. I found out on my '96 fireblade that after some time, the part gets clogged and malfunctions. so removing helps a constant water flow... I'll test today and write about results... it looks like a 35+ weather today...

to answer runner, its a 2003 model, on 20000km roughly 9k. coolant was drained and changed just last week. And I filled it up with coolant only, a few bottles. run the engine, and filled it up with fresh water. I'm located in Istanbul, Turkey. There is alot of traffic, and the weather is has been 30 ~ 32 degrees celcius, in shadow. And rockmeupto125, thanks for the looong answer. Really appreciated it. I did check the battery with load test and voltage test. Just 2 days ago I bought new battery to be on the safe side. 12v 9Amp. Now I'm near the bike, and testing as I type. Got the multimeter out and the results... 13.57 ~ 13.63 V , the engine is still cold, revs around 2300. Ok the engine is around 70C, the rev dropped to idle, 1100. I'm reving at 5500 now. results 14.24~ 14.78v @ 5500 RPM So did i pass the test ??? lol Since I'm near the bike, I'm checking on the fins and the overall condition of the pipes, again. no punctures, the fins are not bend... I'll keep in mind about 2500 rmp on traffic, but it sure is not a permanent solution. the water wetter on the other hand seems great solution. lets see if they deliver to turkey Thanks, I'll keep posting for changes.

Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I've been searching for related topics but couldnt find, so decided to open one myself. Basicly my xx is overheating. when i say over heating, I mean 120 C, (not F ). The birds seems to have chronic re-charge problem. Discussed in many ways as i can see. Well mine got the disease as well. I ride for half hour no probs. But when i wait in traffic for 10mins and heat gets upto 120. So pull over. wait for cool down. And it wont start... Although I think it is mainly heat related, I checked the charge system, fuses all wd40ied, checked RR, even installed a cooling aluminum plate on the RR, bought new battery and did all sorts of things, both usefully and crap.. . But after 10mins in traffic, well the bike just starts to burn. and no juice... I guess the bike overheats, the RR shuts (cos it heats as well). The charging stops. The fan gets weaker by the min. forces me to pullover and killing my battery. And by the time i start again there is just not enough juice... and yes, i did check if the fan is working. and yes the coolant fluid is full. :) Why does it overheat? Ok, its pretty hot down here (35C or so) but thats no good enough reason. Is the heating charge system related? Is the no-starting heat related?? The water pipes seem to go around without bends . The system doesnt seem to be lacking any water, so there is no holes. The radiator has no holes. Argh ???