brianmacza

yep top rated in mileage and rain.. PR2's for me too. Do either of you find that once you get about 2k miles on the Pilot Road 2's that they get a little greasy and lose some traction? I am shoppig tires now and want to switch from the Contiforce Max tires that were on it when I bought it last year. I replaced them with a BRAND NEW SET of Contiforce Max's before going on my first trip. I have PR2s on my XX at the moment - the back tire gets loose when its cold and you power out of bends - next set I get will be Metzeler Z6 as they were fantastic right to the end. The only criticism I have of the Z6 was that the time/distance from wear bars showing to cords exposed was VERY small. Still got 10k miles out of the back tho, and the front didn't cup at all. The PR2 has been a disappointment in some ways - loses pressure regularly (have had it checked a couple times for leaks, and have replaced the valve and the valve stem twice too) although the wear has been fine - have done 8k miles so far and it looks good for maybe anothr 4k. The front is cupped to hell due to the rough road surfaces we have on the freeways here. to the point where the bars shake at low speeds. I have a spare Pirelli that I'll put on till I get the set of Z6 to take care of that issue.

When my waterpump went it pissed out in a high pressure stream - if the motor is HOT you get a toasted left foot

128,000km - last service the shims were checked and are still in spec. Have changed CCT once, RR once, battery twice, chains and tires... oh... and fairing panels when I fell on my dumbshit ASS...

I polished scratches out my bike headlamp using Autosol - worked just fine. the entire surface is pretty much brand new

I already sourced a dual 35W set for about $75 - halogens suck compared to HID

The ballasts were 4 years old, more or less... the manual gives its operating voltage as "9V to 16V DC" and the spike when the RR crapped was probably 17V or more... It wasn't an age issue - it was Honda's fucking miserable RR design No wonder they have reverted to scooters and commuters - rubber straps, CCT's and RR are whats draggin' them down on REAL bikes.

I installed a new alternator doodad about a month ago... all seemed peachy. Today I got the mystic puff of blue smoke out the front of the fairing and both ballasts are dead... the RR died and the voltage surge killed my HIDs. Have put in the new RR and new halogen bulbs, but it isn't the same

Have hunted locally for a multifunction display like that for a while... 3rd world countries don't get the good shit.

I just replaced my stator - all 3 poles were shorted to ground on the old one... RR is ok, and its charging just fine now. QUestion is, does anyone with an electronics bent have a circuit that can be cobbled in to put a 'charge LED' someplace on the dash to verify charge function? Its something that I think is a huge oversight on Honda's part - particularly with the stator and RR of the old carby XX's being fairly low spec. Help? ANyone??

I did a port&polish on my old CB900F a good number of years ago... with uprated carbs (Mikuni 36MM smoothbores) and dgreed cams, plus a Yoshi 4 into 2 system that was used on the AMA bikes at the time it was dynod at 135hp (from stock 92ph). After the big bore kit was done that was boosted to about 145. Then the #3 big end went and fucked the casings up completely... The point is that an XX with proper fuelling and exhaust, flowed ports and sorted cams should do mor than 8hp - with the above I'd be surprised if you didn't get way better than 20 as a reliable engine.

Just look at the view count - I keep a close eye on this thread cos it set me right on a whole bunch of issues - was thinking of getting my head flowed but decided thats probably not a great idea if the cams dont get degreed along with other changes like rejetting/full 4-1 system and some serious setup on a dyno... Stock in my case might be optimal. Its still appreciated tho - the benefit of your input already saved me a heap of pain and cash.

astroglide

Metzeler Z6 or Michilin PR2 Don't mess with tires

My last DID is now formally knackered... its done 30,000km and tension around the chain varies bigtime. I do the occasional wheelie and probably don;t lube as often as I should. Will have to get a replacement this weekend - the front sprocket is a new 16 tooth, rear is stock, and they both look OK.

locktite

Try HID - have had mine for 45000km and no problems yet

Agree comletely with the Z6 as a kickass tyre... currently have Michilin M3 front, Pilot Road 2 rear which is good and wears well, but not as confidence inspiring as the Z6 f/r combo was. Avoid Bridgestone BT016 like the plague if you're not an agressive rider (takes too long to get heat into it and its as slippy as baby snot when cold)

I bought old conveyor belt rubber sheeting (1.2m wide and almost 1/2 incth thick) and laid them on the floor edge to edge. A rubber tape used on roofing closed up any gaps and its pretty good. Oil doesn't stick, tools bounce, and its easy to clean.

I take it you're pretty close to sea level? I'm running -1 front and stock rear, and I need to clutch it up in 2nd (power wheelies in 1st are easy)... I'm at about 7000 feet above sea level tho so that may have a small effect

The microswitch is available as a seperate part - I had to replace mine when I flipped my XX last year... was about a $20 item (spares here cost too damn much)

I did my rear sag this weekend - was 65mm and 2 turns of the preload doodad took it to 42mm sag it is sooooooo much harder now - I feel every bump in the road. Turns in way faster tho, and feels far nicer thru bends (tho that could also be the new PR2 I put on a week ago)

I just took off a BT016 - hated it. Slick as baby snot when cold - I could spin it up in 1st and 2nd after a 20 mile freeway commute on dry roads in winter. When warm it sticks great - never got to feel as comfortable with it as the Z6 it replaced. I have a PR2 on now - best feel ever. Really a great tire (ok... only done 1200km on it so far o its early days yet) B

I couldn't get a higher rating rad cap from Honda - they are so fucking useless. Their parts database shows zero stock of radiator caps for ALL models at ALL dealerships, countrywide. SPecial import from Japan will take 21 days and the cost will be ZAR350 (about US$50). Got one from the local Yamaha agent, same spec, in stock, US$8 The new cap makes a world of difference - no overflow after a 50km ride in back streets at low speeds with the fan running intermittently. Will now convert to 100% antifreeze and its business as usual ) Thanks for the help guys...

The original radiator cap was trashed in the off - the limited research I did indicated that the likely set pressure was 0.9bar - this is probably the culprit if the stock honda cap has a higher standard pressure rating. Will have to get one and see what the difference is )

Ummm...where is the upchucking from, and where does the upchucking go? The upchuck comes from the header bottle - its not steaming hot water, but I'm assuming its propelled by a bubble of steam from the radiator past the 0.9 bar radiator cap pressure spring... erm... it lands on the floor