Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Pete in PA

Members
  • Posts

    2,324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Pete in PA

  1. There is no reason to take a ground several feet to ground it. Attach it to the frame/chassis at it's source. You certainly don't run 10-15 or more grounds through a connector. Rodents HAVE to chew to survive. Their front teeth never stop growing so they must chew. We had a bunch of vehicles die in the parking area at work over a shift. Groundhogs were going up into the engine bays chewing on wires. Didn't matter make, model, year. We had to trap a bunch of them to stop it.
  2. Wow. Just read this post. How can Honda be so brilliant...and so stupid at the same time. My 2006 ST1300 and probably all, had that exact same yellow ground junction box.🙄😡. Only difference is it's located up near the windshield. I'm glad my XX back in the day was carbd.
  3. Having owned an XX, ST1300 and now a non-linked ABS fj-09 my vote is FIRMLY with non-linked ABS. My XX never gave me a lick of trouble in the 85k Miles I had it. The linked part was mostly transparent and unnoticeable. The ST is almost exactly the same system EXCEPT the secondary MC is upside down from the XX. BIG mistake. rain, washing etc. runs down and corrodes the bore causing a dragging rear brake. Lots of problems with that on the forums. I enlarged the drain hole in mine and squirted oil periodically into mine. Never a prob. for 65k miles. VERY elaborate, PITA bleeding procedure though. Now with my FJ, super simple bleeding and ABS is the way to go. I'll come into wet grass and hammer the brakes and no drama, just stops with a light vibe felt.
  4. https://reading.craigslist.org/mcy/d/reading-2000-honda-fuel-injected-super/7520402089.html Been 45 days that I know of. Price dropped $100 so far. Looks in great shape. If i could swing it both $$$$ and physically I would. Needs a new home here. Someone who appreciates it.
  5. OK, I'll ask.....What are you doing with a 98 with 16k miles?
  6. Well I have split everthing including the ballenceshafts, and they have the only rubber in the engine other the the drive cushins in the rear wheel, that I can thnk of now. I'm just going by what I've read in the 99 test in Rider where they quote the press kit with the changes from 97 and 98. Rider April 1999 "To minimize the annoying clunk that occurs when the bike is stationary and the transmission is shifted from neutral to first gear Honda engineers developed a hard-rubber damping system that quickly slows the spining mainshaft when the clutch is pulled in." BTW I still think an ST1300 is in my near/distant?? future. But that will mean no XX. I'm having more issues with my neck, wrist, and arms riding my XX.
  7. Since leaning her out, last tank just got 41.8 mpg for my commute which is up over 1 mountain and lots of ridges with about 17 miles of hiway one way. With the 1 tooth up on the front changing the odometer 6% it's actually 44.3 mpg. still runs great no hesitation.
  8. His is a 98 like mine. we don't have the rubber damping in the trans like 99 and newer does. Set the idle at 1100 rpm, you'll still get a kerchunk but not as bad. BTW nice stable of bikes. wish I had an ST1300 also. Almost traded for one last fall, can't have both bikes.
  9. With gas prices going ape shit, I pulled my carb bank yesterday and leaned it out. I was getting 38-40 mpg and now hope to get42-45 mpg on my commute. I didn't set it quite to factory (lean) specs, but went with a smaller washer on the needles and pilot screw only out 2 turns instead of 3.
  10. Of course you can. If you don't mind coolant, oil and compression leaks.
  11. Just what I did last year. The Gorilla glue didn't hold. Drilled a hole near the pivot and ran a small screw into it. I haven't dragged my sidestand yet.
  12. I'm thinking there is physically no room to pull the rim out from between both installed calipers. Per the manual I put pieces of duct tape on the rim to protect from scratches when I pull calipers.
  13. Well when you do the springs, put in tapered steering head bearings.
  14. How are you guys pulling the wheel WITHOUT pulling both calipers??? I've always pulled the fender and both calipers.
  15. So now there are at least 2 of you ot there not even running a washer. Sorta makes the topic a while back of changing out the washer or not every oil change worthless.
  16. Unless you feel a pulsing when braking your rotors aren't warped. It's normal for the pads to wear unevenly from the LBS. I rotate my pads to stop this. Also check that the caliper moves freely side to side either without pads installed or without a rotor between. I'm still on my origional rotors at 83k miles.
  17. Sorry I got to this late. Every brand of car I've done rear disc brakes on you have to turn the piston in. It IS how the E-brake works.
  18. R1 reg/rec since April 2003, still going strong. Yes it gets warm/hot. With all this talk of stators going out I've still got my factory origional at 83k miles. :icon_thumbsup: :icon_pray:
  19. Mercury sticks here also. Cost $35 about 20 years ago.
  20. Not good. I hope that isn't that cold start noise we all hear. :icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: My opinion engine out, split cases sorry to say.
  21. Get the bolts off any way possible (cut the heads off?) Get VFR bars, you wanted to raise the bars right? They come with 12mm bolts.
  22. Since the trend (if they move at all) is to have less clearance with age I'd set for the loose end then probably never touch them again. Of course that would only be after one or more go out of spec.
  23. Good to see it wasn't another scam. Somebody got a good deal. I'll keep my 98 with over 80k miles, it's not worth anything except to me.
  24. +1 except for me it's 3500 to 4500 miles.
  25. 5% more mileage than D220 (whoowee ) I've never ran a D220, what mileage did anyone here get out of a 220? I do like the tread pattern though.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use